6 X.284 caliber

sneeky_sniper

sneeky_sniper

New member
Do any of you wildcatters have any good info on this round? I have hunted around and found that it is a accurate round and well-suited for long range shooting, but other than that, I can't find much else.
How difficult is it to form brass for it? Or can you form brass for it? I am assuming the barrel life is not the longest, but are they bad barrel burners? Is it a tempermental cartridge to load?

Found a rifle in this caliber, love the rifle, just ignorant of the caliber. Not afraid to reload every round, which with a rifle like this, you would want to.
 
Hey I shoot that bad boy. I tell you how bad to the bone it is! Ya baby Shot a coyote at 341 yds with it. Looked like that poor thing was struck by lightning.One prooblem is when I shoot rabits with it.They blow up!Dang thats no good! Loading for it simple dude. Buy your self some Lapua 6.5x284Brass and run them one time into a Redding 6x284 full length sizeing die.Whammo your on your way.That round kicks [beeep].Loads well you gotta know exactly the rifling twist rate.Well What is it man???? Mine is 1 in 10 so I shoot little missels called Hornady 87gr V-Maxs.26" tube seat them babes just touching rifling.I use H4350 or WXR. Some times H4831.3,400 to 3700 FPS.Sierra Reloading manual is for me a starting point.Hornady loads should be thrown into the tolit.Hodgen is a good start point also.Give us some details on your rifle dude? Who makes the BBL? How long? What brand of trigger?Lots of factors in shooting tight groups in any caliber. Keep that BBL clean of copper(Manage that copper,nothing is perfect) Moly sucks. Ok shooter you got your work cut out for you. www.reloaders.net They got a lot of info on that baby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowingsmilie.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
 
I had mine build so had time to get things and one was a form die never tried using a die so really cann't answer your question. I would think who ever you got the rifle from would have some brass and dies for the rifle if not may have something on the barrel who chambered the rifle give him a call. My only advise to you would be to get a chamber cast on that rifle if you cann't find out who chamber the rifle before making any rounds. Alot of rifles out there with tight neck that aren't maked on the barrel. Just my .02
 
Oh hey Roper has a very valid and important point. Listen to that shooter! No you need to do it in stages(Size a case down a full milimeter) Why go thru all that hassel? Just do what I said buy 6.5x284 brass.If not you'll half to neck turn the crap out of the brass.Why do everything the hard way.Hand loading is work!I do it cause I half to. C'mon now we need details on your rifle. I might of made it sound like a walk in the park with that caliber.Its a high performance/Pressure round . My rifle has a custom chamber. I know the guy who cut it.If you chamber a round in a wrong fitting neck You could have serious trouble.Get that rifle checked out by a competent gun smith. Get the facts before you play.
 
All custom chambers have a print on file with who ground the reamer. All I have dealt with will fax you the print for the asking.

No need to guess.

Jack
 
I have one built on a Mauser action and 26" Shilen Match-grade barrel.
Loading 75 gr V-Max and N-160 powder and working on another load with Sierra 85gr.
Lapua brass 6,5-285 once into redding 6x284 full length sizeing die and you are good to go.
Fast and furious, love it.
 
6.5/284 brass with the form die is the way to go! I had trouble with Norma brass having a slightly bigger (diamiter) case head. So stay with Lapua or Hornady brass. It's a screamer but I found it touchy to load accurate rounds for. I had a 243 Ackley before I rebarreled for the 6mm/284 and found it more user friendly and more inherently accurate. The 284 case has more powder capacity then the 243 but you can't use it. Before you buy one you need to make up your mind on what bullets you want to shoot. 8/9 twist for the 90 grain and up VLD bullets, 10 twist for 70 - 90 grain bullets, 12/14 for the light bullets. I have a 12" twist and can push 58gr VMax up to about 4200 fps but I load them back to 4000 fps, very accurate.
 
I prefer the 1/14 twist barrels for my 6x284 my latest is a pretty good shooter. I only shoot 68/70 gr bullets and 4200fps is about top in my rifle and it will eat up barrels but that is the price you pay for speed. H-4831 in my rifles has always shoot the best and I like the load density. I normally like to start out with a 28" then have it set back once and that will last me till the barrel is gone and this kind of a rifle I like a tight neck case. I've always found the 284 case to be pretty strong and last a long time. I shoot a 1/10 twist 6mmremAI that I like pretty well one of the reasons I don't shoot a 1/10 twist 6x284. I don't want to get flamed for this but I don't like the laupa 6.5x284 brass I haven't tried any Norma but the Hornady seem to be pretty good I also shoot a tight neck 6.5x284.
I started back in the 60's loading for the 284 my latest project is a custom 700 in 284. Well good luck to all.
 
Roper, just curious what it is you don't like about the Lapua .284 brass? Never used it myself, but just ordered 200 pieces of it yesterday. For a 6/284 project that I'm just really getting going on now (planning to order the barrel probably next week).

- DAA
 
Quote:
Roper, just curious what it is you don't like about the Lapua .284 brass? Never used it myself, but just ordered 200 pieces of it yesterday. For a 6/284 project that I'm just really getting going on now (planning to order the barrel probably next week).

- DAA

In my limited use of 6.5x284 brass it always takes alot more pressure to resize the case over Hornady or formed 284 cases and for the extra cost in my rifle I never had any improvement as to groups size. Maybe in a non tight neck rifle it may help I'm going to neck some up for my 284 and see how it does. Case capacity is alittle greater with the laupa brass.
If someone really is into weight cases,sorting etc laupa is pretty good. My 6x284 and 6.5x284 when the barrels were fresh had groups in the low to mid .2's for 5 shots and thats not bad for a non BR rifle. When laupa first came out with 308 brass I tried some in my hunter BR rifle was a tight neck using that brass did nothing for my rifle. I think it's good brass in the 6ppc but I still have some of the old sako russian cases and some that Skip Otto made primer pocket bushing for. Well I got to sign off for a week or so heading to OK City to watch the AQHA world show and see if I can get back to Amarillo for the NFR steer roping finals.
 
I have a new custom 6mm-06 that I ordered some custom Redding dies for. Been so busy I haven't even had a chance to load any rounds yet. If you need to order dies for it, Graf's in Missouri has the best prices I've found so far, and availability is usually good. Yours would be series "C" dies. www.grafs.com
 
Alright, the rifle is supposedly built by a guy named "Speedy" Gonzales wo is out of Roanoake (Fort Worth) Texas.
http://sgyrifles.com/main.html

I need to get the serial number of the rifle and see if he actually built it or did work on it. It is built on a Remmy 700 action with a stainless magazine block filler, and a very good looking barrel (26" I am pretty sure)with a built-in muzzle break. This is definitely a benchrest gun due to the weight and the large stock and wide forearm. It also has a 2oz. trigger and no safety. Needless to say, I would put a good Jewell or Canjar on it that has a safety. Not sure why, but I probably would. I just like the rifle, and it has a good price on it. Not dying for it, but I have always wanted something like it. I am going hunting this weekend, and I will get to go look at it again next week.
 
Either borescope the barrel or just figure it needs a new barrel. Without borescoping it, deduct the price of fitting a new barrel.

Jack
 
Jack Roberts is 100% accurate. Doesn't sound like a good deal to me. "No Safety" What? Has this gun ever killed any body? Why is it being sold? Serial # Gunsmith doesn't put that on it. What brand is Barrel? What twist? Jewell trigger is a must. However its a good starting point? $500.00 to 600.00 for a barrel. $250.00 for Jewell trigger.This gun is going to set you back. Maybe you should consider other options. Like buying a Cooper rifle already chambered in that rnd brand new.
 
i have been really impressed with that round as far as distance goes. but ive had more accurate guns. the local gunsmith is building custom 6x284's for right at $1400 with a schillings deluxe barrel and 700 actions.that is free floated barrel,action trued, and trigger job as well. you can find them usually for anywhere between 800-1000 from local guys for sale(used). what are you guys paying for them out west?
 
Speedy is one of the best BR 'smiths around. So at least you know the work done on it was top notch. And that 2 oz. trigger almost certainly is a Jewell. The Jewell competition triggers don't accomodate a safety. You'd have no proble selling that trigger if you want to get an HVR model with a safety though.

Jack's right as usual about the barrel. Unless you really KNOW otherwise, just consider it toast.

- DAA
 
The action, trigger, and the stock are worth what price I would have to pay to get it.

But, after thinking about it, I don't know if I will pursue the deal, it sounds like a possible headache.
 
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