E collar question

docjon2013

New member
Hello guys,
I am picking up a pup I am wanting to train for coyote decoying next weekend and have a question about e collars. Do you need GPS for it? Also, what brand? I have been told to get Garmin and Dogtra.
Thanks for the help.

Jon
 
I don't GPS is a necessity, I think you would only really need this if you were hunting in a very dense foliage with limited sight lanes.
 
I’m going to respectfully disagree with Stugotz, although I would not invest a lot of money in a gps system before you know if your dog will cut it. How old is the dog your getting?
 
Get a good handle on your dog before you spend a ton of money on a collar system. You want a dog that will handle on or off the dog collar. You want your dog to recall at a whistle or a sound, not just a tone or vibration...
I used a coyote hide and drug it around for my pups to get used to before we went "live".
Good luck man....make it fun and keep it short in the beginning, end on a high note.
 
Originally Posted By: gonzagaGet a good handle on your dog before you spend a ton of money on a collar system. You want a dog that will handle on or off the dog collar. You want your dog to recall at a whistle or a sound, not just a tone or vibration...
I used a coyote hide and drug it around for my pups to get used to before we went "live".
Good luck man....make it fun and keep it short in the beginning, end on a high note.

Thanks that’s great advice. I will do that.


Thanks
Jon
 
A good obedience course will give you the basics as far as recalls, stays and heeling
all things that will make your dog a great dog, having your dog in control through farm yards and pastures really impressed the farmer/rancher. Then you can work on reinforcing at distance outside the training facility. I trained bird dogs and was a judge at performance tests. A trained dog will respond to lips on a whistle, if you have to raise your voice it isn't trained. Dogs know how to hunt training teaches them to hunt for you and builds a bond with your.

If you get a collar learn how to train with it, not punish with it.
 
Originally Posted By: AWSA good obedience course will give you the basics as far as recalls, stays and heeling
all things that will make your dog a great dog, having your dog in control through farm yards and pastures really impressed the farmer/rancher. Then you can work on reinforcing at distance outside the training facility. I trained bird dogs and was a judge at performance tests. A trained dog will respond to lips on a whistle, if you have to raise your voice it isn't trained. Dogs know how to hunt training teaches them to hunt for you and builds a bond with your.

If you get a collar learn how to train with it, not punish with it.

I am working with him now on just sit,heels and stay. He has the heel and sit down pretty weil so far. I am just using my voice now and am getting ready to introduce the whistle here next month. He will only be 3 months on March 1 so I am not trying to do to much for now. I will get him solid on the voice commands before moving on. The ecollar is not even ordered yet. I welcome advice you guys have for me. My past dog training was with pointers and beagles. I always had older trained dogs to run them with. This is going to be new to me after the obedience training is nailed down.

Thanks
Jon
 
Just my opinion here. My dogs have manners but the main thing for me is that a dog doesn’t look to me as a security blanket. I don’t have a sit command because it’s not beneficial on a stand. I rarely have to tone them back, they kind of develop a style. I do occasionally have to tone one but it’s rare. The other thing that is a must for me is when I say “get back” my dogs get beside me so I have a safe shot. I also say get back when I’m washing down kennels and they stay back and don’t try to go through the gate so that is kind of my “stay command.” Just my two cents.
 
Originally Posted By: SHamptonJust my opinion here. My dogs have manners but the main thing for me is that a dog doesn’t look to me as a security blanket. I don’t have a sit command because it’s not beneficial on a stand. I rarely have to tone them back, they kind of develop a style. I do occasionally have to tone one but it’s rare. The other thing that is a must for me is when I say “get back” my dogs get beside me so I have a safe shot. I also say get back when I’m washing down kennels and they stay back and don’t try to go through the gate so that is kind of my “stay command.” Just my two cents.

Thanks for the info. I like the idea of the getting out of the way on the shot. You mentioned that you rarely have to tone them back. Everyone I ask about training them is just to get them in front of coyotes and they will figure it out. Well there has to be more to it than that. When do they know to get after them and when to come back? Sure they might pick it up but I bet there are several butt kickings for the newbie dog. I am fine with that and I know the more coyotes they are exposed the better but when is the right time to put them in a live event? Sorry with all the questions

Thanks
Jon
 
Here’s what I do. Not saying there’s not a better way but this works for me. I don’t take a dog until it’s at least 8 months old. I don’t do anything with them but let them be a puppy. I have found no simulated activity that has benefited the process in any way so mine see their first coyote on stand. As far as when to go I like them to go when they see one. When you think it’s time to bring the dog back tone him. After a couple you probably won’t have to tone them very many times after that. If you’re concerned about your dog getting hurt you probably won’t make a good dog. You have to let them work and occasionally they get banged up but that just comes with the territory. So the bottom line is pour coyotes on them. They either will or they won’t.
 
Originally Posted By: SHamptonHere’s what I do. Not saying there’s not a better way but this works for me. I don’t take a dog until it’s at least 8 months old. I don’t do anything with them but let them be a puppy. I have found no simulated activity that has benefited the process in any way so mine see their first coyote on stand. As far as when to go I like them to go when they see one. When you think it’s time to bring the dog back tone him. After a couple you probably won’t have to tone them very many times after that. If you’re concerned about your dog getting hurt you probably won’t make a good dog. You have to let them work and occasionally they get banged up but that just comes with the territory. So the bottom line is pour coyotes on them. They either will or they won’t.

Thanks Scott, I appreciate it. Scout will be 8 months in July. I don't mind them getting rolled up and hurt because I know it will happen and I'm good with that. So do you have a command for them to go after the coyotes when the show up or do the dogs just go on their own? Do you keep your dogs outside and pinned up all the time?

Thanks

Jon
 
If I have something coming in and they don’t see it I will beep the collar once and kind of adjust my position toward the coyote. Every single dog I have had looks every direction except where they need to when I smooth or make any type of “go” sound. It’s hard not to do but I’ve found it to be detrimental. I beep the collar just to get them to throw their head up.
 
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