Mounting a Bering Optics Thermal Scope

Kirsch

Active member
I've been getting a lot of questions lately on how I mount the Super Hogster and Super Yoter on bolt guns and ARs. This would really apply to many thermals and not just Bering Thermals. Alf recently had a post and showed his configuration and for him he was able to mount his Super Hogster on a bolt using an extended rail. This is an option I have recommended to people for some time. Many users who run Hogsters think the height is perfect on their ARs and some think it is too low. I used the Hogster 35 and Super Hogster for the last 2 years and never used a riser. However, I have never felt totally comfortable shooting on either my bolt or my AR. I wrote a post about this in an earlier thread, but I have used the LaRue Tactical Picatinny Riser LT101 QD, and for me, it really helps allow the scope to sit further back for bolt guns and sit higher on ARs for more of a heads-up shooting style. Image shown below.

LaRue.jpg


This solved both problems for me, but it may not be necessary for your guns. **For the Super Yoter, the entire mount should be on the rail, so for those running bolt guns with the new Super Yoter, you may want to check this Riser out or extended rail Alf mentioned.**

Battery Pack Configuration: The SH and SY do not have a picatinny rail on the side of the scope as some other models. If a person wants to move the scope from gun to gun and not mess around with moving a battery pack or buying one for each gun, I have 2 possibilities using the TRB from Night Goggles. My favorite is to lay the TRB on the LaRue riser rail right in front of the scope. The offset design allows it to be out of the way of the objective of the scope. It is like it was designed to fit there. This does not work if you have a right-handed bolt action on some brands as it may hit when trying to operate the bolt. This works great on ARs or left-handed bolts. The TRB could be mounted on the left side as well, but it sticks out a long ways and I don't like the cord potentially getting snagged on things.

TRB_Larue3.jpg


I needed to come up with another option as I want to swap everything between multiple guns including a right-handed bolt and an AR, but not have to rig each one with a battery system. With the purchase of a 90° Picatinny Rail Adapter and a .83" Detachable Riser, I have a solution I like almost as well as the first option. I have tried a.5" riser and a 1" but the .5" is a little too tight and to me the 1" sticks a little far out. I really like this setup. There is just enough room to get at the lens cap and battery compartment.

TRB_Larue2.jpg


TRB_Larue1.jpg


By having this 90° Picatinny Rail Adapter, I could also use this for something like a rangefinder shown below. I don't use rangefinders but if I did, I could move this from gun to gun and the scope and battery or LRF would all come with me. I used a 1" riser for this one to get the rangefinder a little further away.

LaRue_Rangefinder.jpg


This is not the only way to set up a gun and I am not saying it is the best. However, I answer this question so often, I wanted to provide a post showing how I have mine configured. There is nothing wrong with putting a battery pack on the handrail of a gun or on the butt stock or all the other places people mount their batteries. By putting them in other places, a better balance can sometimes be achieved. My goal with any of my night-hunting rigs is to make things as simple as possible, allow it be moved to another gun, and also to not have a lot areas where things can snag, etc. I also try to keep the area where I attach my gun to the tripod clear of obstructions. The start of this new setup was getting the LaRue riser and so far I am happy I have moved to this new configuration.
 
Originally Posted By: HeymartayMounting the battery on the right will it get hit by brass on ar’s? I am fairly confident with a riser the answer is the battery will not be in the way. It isn't a problem with any of my ARs. Without a riser, it might be getting close but it would probably still be OK. Here is a video with the riser and the TRB mounted in the front.

 

Korey, you have definitely put some thought into it all. Serms like you have a good solution. I like the looks of that AR, by the wsy.
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Korey, you have definitely put some thought into it all. Serms like you have a good solution. I like the looks of that AR, by the wsy. Thanks, yes lots of experimentation and I am liking the positioning on the left side of the scope, more and more.

The gun on the video is my good, old, trusty 22-250 AR-10.
 
I think that left side mount looks better also. I noticed you don’t have any slack in the battery cord. How do you have cord secured so close to the optic to keep so clean looking?
 
Originally Posted By: ToroI think that left side mount looks better also. I noticed you don’t have any slack in the battery cord. How do you have cord secured so close to the optic to keep so clean looking? First, I get a USB-C cable that isn't super long. The 90° connector on the scope end is something I consider a must. I use 1' cables a lot. The other factor that can help is to use Index Clips. These clips have cord management options. If you look really close at the picture below, you can see a clip holding the cable against the LaRue riser. You can see even when I had the scope mounted off the riser, I was using clips to keep the cord close like in the 2nd image below. I like to use them as they can keep the cords in place and keep from getting snagged on stuff. You can buy them a little cheaper directly from LaRue but you pay shipping. There is cheaper option (not LaRue) recently placed on Amazon but for only 30 clips vs 72 and from an unknown brand. I like the bigger packs as I cover my entire rail with clips. The edges are not sharp this way, it protects your rail, and looks cool.

TRB_Larue3.jpg


LaRue.jpg
 
Mr. Kirsch where can i find a 90 deg. picatinny rail adapter and a .83" detachable riser? and do you have the part numbers? thank you
 
...."for more of a heads-up shooting style"

...could you explain what it means.... "heads-up"
....google translator doesn't help me ...
 
Looking for a throw ring for my Super Yoter
(between the lens cap and where I have my battery pack mounted it's tough to get to the focus ring) ....

Is the focus ring the same size on the Yoter and the Super Hogster ?

 
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I don't have my SH any longer so can't say for sure but I know the ridges are different so the ones specifically designed for the SH most likely will not work. The diameter is also wider I believe because the objective is bigger.

I use the following. It actually works better on the SY than the SH because there is more room between the mount and the objective. so it doesn't rub. It isn't the prettiest thing but it works. Trim off the ends, and it works great.
Nylon Coaster
 
Originally Posted By: KirschI don't have my SH any longer so can't say for sure but I know the ridges are different so the ones specifically designed for the SH most likely will not work. The diameter is also wider I believe because the objective is bigger.

I use the following. It actually works better on the SY than the SH because there is more room between the mount and the objective. so it doesn't rub. It isn't the prettiest thing but it works. Trim off the ends, and it works great.
Nylon Coaster

Thanks
 
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