How can I lighten a Ruger 10/22 trigger?

sage_yote

sage_yote

New member
I have a Ruger 10/22 (this one, standard)
I would like to lighten the trigger pull down to 2 1/2 to 3 pounds with no creep. I was looking at the volquartsen 10/22 hammer that is supposed to reduce pull to about 2 1/2 pounds. Would this do the trick and does a gunsmith have to install it? I am fairly new to gun assembly and such. Thanks for the help.
 
The Volquartsen hammer will lighten it to about 2 1/2lb., but will not eliminate the creep. Installing the hammer is not to hard, but after installing it, make sure the safety works. The only sure way to get rid of the creep is to buy a Kidd trigger assemble.
 
I just put a Clark trigger system in a target model 10-22 and added a Volquartsen extended release last week. The Volquartsen hammer will obviously do the job too. The pull is just right for most people.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5020

The kit, or any hammer is easy enough to install. If you look at your Ruger manual for disassembly/parts, you have a basic road map of how things go together if you get lost. Just lay everything out in sequence as you take it apart. Having a punch that is close to the pins makes the job much easier as you can retain parts while slipping others in, and also use it to recompress the hammer spring back in place while you slide the pin above it back in.

As K22 mentioned, be sure that everything functions as it should before shooting it.

-MP
 
the Ruger 10/22 isn't a hard gun to work on a little reshaping of the sear engagement and polishing of contact areas of both the hammer and the sear is all it takes. I don't mind any creep so I did the work myself. After market stuff wasn't worth the expense to me when I already have a Dremel.

t/c223encore.
 
Power Custom has a trigger "kit" avalible. Contains hammer,springs, shims and a adjustable sear ( to eliminate creep ).This is the kit I have been using as of late. It really does make sweet trigger out of the factory POS. Last 2 I did were over 8# from the factory the kit put them both under 2.75#. Next best thing to a KID IMHO.
 
ME,
Nice job on your rifle. I think there are a lot of us here that have Dremels and other tools that can do this type of work ourselves.

I am all for encouraging someone to try and do work on their own rifles. It gives the individual a sense of accomplishment, and he learns how his firearm functions. The 10-22 trigger is an easy place to start.

Sage Yote,
Don't be afraid to try replacing anything in the trigger group. It's easier than you might think. As you get to understand more and pick up the right tools, you will be able to work on sear engagement as mentioned above. If you get lost, there are always bunch of people here that can help you through it.

-MP
 
I would vote for the Jard over the Kidd. I have them all and Jard is by far the best in my opinion. It is less expensive, single stage, and really good.
 
Thanks for the compliment, Mike!
I coulda dropped a LOT more $$$$ into my 10/22.....

Triggers.....
Barrels.....
Scopes.....
Stocks.....

And still have gained no practical advantage in the game of "Squirrels"!

me!
 
Thanks for all your help everyone I decided to order the Clark standard hammer/trigger kit today from Brownell's from Mike Paul's link and suggestion. ME, that is a very nice looking 10/22, thanks for sharing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
If you can find one the Jewell is a fantastic 10/22 trigger. Jewell no longer sells them because too many people were misadjusting them and going full auto.
I would not part with mine for $500.

Jack
 
Jack Roberts, I was looking at some of the complete trigger assemblies but they all cost too much for me. The Jewell trigger for 500 is way out of my range and for all that i'm going to do with my 10/22. I know they are very good triggers though. How did they make the Jewell triggers to shoot full-auto /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-006.gif? Thanks for your help.
 
As I recall I paid about $200 or a bit more, for my Jewell trigger. The reason some people had trouble with them going full auto was that they were misadjusted. They were either set too light or more often, with too little engagement.

Jack
 
Jack, is Jewell still making 10/22 triggers? I know they were a few years ago but I haven't been able to find them since.

Also, who has the best deal on Jewell triggers? I'm looking for a 700 trigger and possibly a 10/22 trigger...
 
I don't think Jewell is making the 10/22 triggers now. I would think you might find the best prices at one of the mail order companies.

Jack
 
The parts arrived today and I put them in. The trigger pull is much lighter now. How can I test to make sure the gun will work with the safety without dryfiring? Thanks for all the help this was a fun and very simple project to do.
 
If you are worried about dry firing, just put a fired case in the chamber. If the firing pin is the proper length, dry firing is OK. Of course with Ruger's quality control, you better check firing pin protrusion before dry firing on an empty chamber.

Jack
 
Back
Top