Need help with 20 Practical 4/15/2021 Update

aubie515

New member
4/13/2021 UPDATED

I ordered my first 20 Practical barrel from Ritch and he's been great. I have received more information/help from Ritch, so it made sense to give him my business. I ordered a 20" barrel threaded. I finally found in stock Redding S type FL body die and Wilson neck bushing. I ordered and received 2k of Nosler 34gr bullets. I would able to purchase 8lbs of h322 powder.

I couldn't find any of the other popular 20 Practical powder that people were using, so I"m happy to have H322.

I should have my Wilson neck bushing next week, so I can start forming some brass.

I've been wanting a dedicated predator caliber for a while now. Where I live, it's rimfire and shotgun only and I have the following calibers.

22LR
17WSM
22Mag
12 ga

I also have areas in PA where I can hunt with other calibers and I have the following:

223
6.5 Grendel

So I think I ruled out 204 Ruger due to brass availability and 22-250 as it will require more powder.

I am thinking about 20 Practical and I called and talked to Rich from PM. I like his turn around time for his 20 Practical barrels. I am also looking at DTech as he offers Shilen select match barrels, which I'm a fan of.

My question is about forming 20 practical brass. On Robert Whitley's site, he's saying to us Redding S type and using .233 bushing and .225 bushing to resize 223 brass to 20 Practical brass.

Rich, said he just uses the .225 bushing to form the brass.

So all I need to form the brass would be to buy the Redding S type 223 full length sizing die and the .225 bushing to form the 20 practical brass?

As far as powder, I have a lot of CFE223 powder on hand, so I'm hoping someone has a 20 Practical load using that powder. I haven't decided on what projectile, but it will be based on what is in stock.

I think I'm going to go with a 20" barrel and looking at a 1:10 twist. I shoot suppressed, so I didn't want a super long barrel and I wanted to keep the weight down.

Can anyone help me out?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: aubie515I've been wanting a dedicated predator caliber for a while now. Where I live, it's rimfire and shotgun only and I have the following calibers.

22LR
17WSM
22Mag
12 ga

I also have areas in PA where I can hunt with other calibers and I have the following:

223
6.5 Grendel

So I think I ruled out 204 Ruger due to brass availability and 22-250 as it will require more powder.

I am thinking about 20 Practical and I called and talked to Rich from PM. I like his turn around time for his 20 Practical barrels. I am also looking at DTech as he offers Shilen select match barrels, which I'm a fan of.

My question is about forming 20 practical brass. On Robert Whitley's site, he's saying to us Redding S type and using .233 bushing and .225 bushing to resize 223 brass to 20 Practical brass.

Rich, said he just uses the .225 bushing to form the brass.

So all I need to form the brass would be to buy the Redding S type 223 full length sizing die and the .225 bushing to form the 20 practical brass?

As far as powder, I have a lot of CFE223 powder on hand, so I'm hoping someone has a 20 Practical load using that powder. I haven't decided on what projectile, but it will be based on what is in stock.

I think I'm going to go with a 20" barrel and looking at a 1:10 twist. I shoot suppressed, so I didn't want a super long barrel and I wanted to keep the weight down.

Can anyone help me out?

Yep just a die and a bushing. I run mine through a gutted 223 standard die just to get the necks partially sized down but since I run a short ton of progressive press it does not take any extra effort.

I do up batches of brass that way so I can load 20 PRAC, 20 TAC and 17-223 and have an easier time putting the brass up in the die. I've made it both ways but since I have a Dillon 650 doing a "basic" case is very fast.

Greg

Greg
 
There's a couple different ways you can go about it and if you aren't familiar with Redding's dies it can sometimes be a little confusing.

Redding makes a Type S FL (full length) bushing die as well as a Type S bushing neck size only die. It's a preference thing but I prefer to neck my brass down with the bushing neck size only die, instead of the FL bushing die, because then all I'm sizing is the necks and not also FL sizing every time I make a pass to neck brass down. I use these in conjunction with either a body die or FL die when the time comes to size my brass.

Or, you can get the Type S FL bushing die and use that only. Either way will work for you one just works the brass a little more than the other.

Bushing size is largely dependent on which brass you use as different companies have different thicknesses in the necks. I neck down Lapua brass in one step for my 20-222 and 20-250 if I recall I'm using a .234 or .233 bushing.

As for twist, an 11tw will satisfy all of the current 40 grainers and depending on the bullet shape some even heavier so no real need to go faster twist than 11 but if you have some custom heavies you want to shoot maybe they require a 10tw.
 
Last edited:
The problem with NS only dies is that in an AR you are going to run into trouble pretty quick on chambering after a firing or two. You are just begging for trouble in an AR if you don't size them back down. No need to ask how I know that one..LOL

Greg
 
Originally Posted By: GLShooterThe problem with NS only dies is that in an AR you are going to run into trouble pretty quick on chambering after a firing or two. You are just begging for trouble in an AR if you don't size them back down. No need to ask how I know that one..LOL

Greg

I'd agree with that 100%. I was mostly referring to the initial necking down. I think Redding even makes a small base bushing die for the 223.

Since this is an AR build using a smaller bushing to achieve more neck tension than what the bolt guns run may not be a bad idea as well. I run my bolt guns 1-1.5 thou neck tension but in an AR I'd run more like 4 thou +/- neck tension.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: B23Originally Posted By: GLShooterThe problem with NS only dies is that in an AR you are going to run into trouble pretty quick on chambering after a firing or two. You are just begging for trouble in an AR if you don't size them back down. No need to ask how I know that one..LOL

Greg

I'd agree with that 100%. I was mostly referring to the initial necking down. I think Redding even makes a small base bushing die for the 223.

The brass is going to need sizing anyway after first firing so why not start out with one die? New brass is not going to be changed much running it into the FL sizer on the initial loading and I don't think that one will see much negative effect in down the road lifespan on te brass.

I routinely avoid SB dies as I have not found a need in my AR's. Not to say some don't need it but for me I've been able to slide by with standard stuff.

I like the PRAC so much I'm having a barrel made up for my first attempt at a REMAGE set up. I'm also building a 20 LBC on my Ruger RAP for fun two. Since I got my first 20 I have been enamored to them no matter what case they come out of.

Greg
 
I saw that Redding offers a SB S type die as well. I was going to do an AR15 since I have everything but the barrel.

Anyone have a CFE223 load? With components being tough to locate, I was hoping to use what I have on hand. I also have a lb or TAC and BL
Thanks for the advice.

I have Redding SB 223 dies and standard Redding 223 dies, but I know they won't help me.
 
Originally Posted By: aubie515I have Redding SB 223 dies and standard Redding 223 dies, but I know they won't help me.

They won't help you with necking down or sizing the necks after firing but you can still use them to FL size your brass.

Since this is a AR build the best die for you would be like Greg mentioned, the Redding type S FL bushing die.
 
If you going to want to use the expander ball you will need to replace the decapping stem also as the 204 ball won't fit on a 223 stem. Redding will help you out. I found this out when building my 22-204, luckily the left over parts from the 22-204 build got used when I built the 20P.
 
Redding makes a 20 Tactical set up. The guts on it work perfectly in the 223 die. I don't use expander balls in mine since it defeats the reasons for using bushings.

Greg
 
I can't add anything to this that GLShooter hasn't already covered. But I do have a question for you aubie. Are you a dentist, for some reason I read this in a "dentist" voice?
No offense meant, that's just how I read it.
 
Not a Dentist...I work for a Credit Union.

Yes, I saw that Hornady also makes a 20 Tactical die and that 20 Tactical and 20 Practical are similar.

If I can locate a Readding S FL 223 die, that's what I'll end up with for this build.

Thanks for the advice.
 
You want the fl bushing die, and a .232 bushing and the final bushing depends on brand of brass. And make sure you lube the outside of necks properly. The 232 or .233 is handy for fired LC brass.
 
Trying to get set up for this also my buddy also a member here has been doing all the reloading for me till I got set up which I am now I just jumped to doing my 243 and 17hornet before the 20practical I got set up for. He made a wish list or what ever on midway and I ordered all he had listed that he’s been using but the decapping rod doesn’t fit in the die. I’ve got the Redding decapping rod #31203 (204 ruger) and the type S bushing full length die have the 226 bushing. I’m dead in the water without the decapping rod fitting correct? I emailed Redding this morning about it.
 
Why not just decap out of the die? I took a Lee Universal decapper and turned the rod down. A 20 Tactical decapper will work nicely in your die.

Greg
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Clayton86I’ve decapped all my 5.56 brass just not my already fired 20p stuff. Will it resize with just the bushing and no decapping rod?

Absolutely. The decapping rod has nothing to do with the process if you do not run the 20 caliber expander ball. They usually have a not touching decapping pin holder. To use an expander on the decapping rod totally negates the use of the bushings as it leaves you with only one neck tension level that is a constant. Without different diameter expanders you have no flexibility.

Greg
 
Greg, do you turn the necks on your brass so the bushings are consistent? Or is your brass's neck thickness consistent enough where you always get the same neck tension?
 
I just tried it on a few quick. Somethings not right it’s only doing the very tip it seems. Idk this is all very new to me I’ll have my buddy help me set up once I get the decapping rod issue worked out.
 
Originally Posted By: Clayton86I just tried it on a few quick. Somethings not right it’s only doing the very tip it seems. Idk this is all very new to me I’ll have my buddy help me set up once I get the decapping rod issue worked out.

Sounds like your bushing is floating up. Did you use the decapping rod holder on top of it for a spacer? If not, that's probably your problem.
 
Back
Top