Thermion XP50 Comparison video

DoubleUp

DoubleUp

Well-known member
This is the video from the double I shot last week comparing my partner's view with his Thermion XP50 to my view with the Apex XQ50. Again I'm sorry I don't have software to post them side by side. I thought it might help some of you to compare the newer technology of the Thermion XP50 with 640 core to the older technology of the Apex XQ50 with 384 core.

 
Hate to say this but your buddy needs to do some adjusting on his Thermion...why don't you adjust it up a little for him as it doesn't seem that he has got it yet. It is definitely out of adjustment...brightness and contrast are way off and I see he is running on "User" mode(not really what it was intended for) and not the ID, Rock or Forest mode...have him read up on this...it will greatly improve his image and will give a better comparison.
My videos from my Thermion are 10 times better resolution than his. If I knew how to do the whole video posting thing I would post some for you to compare to, but the challenge to even post pics here is more than I can do.
 
Believe me, I've tried to encourage him to make changes in his adjustments. I just post what he gives me.

I'm pretty sure you can figure out how to do videos if you really decide you want to do so.
 
Brightness 12
Contrast 17
Rock mode
Image Detail Boost "ON"

I have already recommended these adjustments to improve vision. I agree 100% with G Anderson. This video does not do justice to the high definition of the Thermion XP50. In this way, the device is used at 50% of its potential ...
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleUpBelieve me, I've tried to encourage him to make changes in his adjustments. I just post what he gives me.

I'm pretty sure you can figure out how to do videos if you really decide you want to do so.
What video edit program/app do you use? If I do get one formatted then I still don't know how I will be able to post it on this site. I have windows 10 if that makes a difference.
 
I just have the program that came with Windows called Movie Maker. I can't do anything fancy with it but I enjoy posting the videos.

Ernest, I'll suggest for him to try those settings, but I sort of doubt that considering the differences in climate, humidity, temps, and maybe even altitude anyone could say a certain setting is always best. I do know he has image boost on, but for some reason doesn't think he needs to pick one of the modes. For me on my older and obviously cheaper Apex, the ID mode has always worked better than anything else. It defaults to 10 on contrast and 10 on brightness. I usually turn the brightness down to about 8 since it is easier on my eyes, but doesn't make as bright a recording. Of course I don't know how that compares to tuning a Thermion since I haven't tried to tune or adjust one at all. Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't seen any recording that looks as good as it does looking through the ocular.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleUpI just have the program that came with Windows called Movie Maker. I can't do anything fancy with it but I enjoy posting the videos.

Ernest, I'll suggest for him to try those settings, but I sort of doubt that considering the differences in climate, humidity, temps, and maybe even altitude anyone could say a certain setting is always best. I do know he has image boost on, but for some reason doesn't think he needs to pick one of the modes. For me on my older and obviously cheaper Apex, the ID mode has always worked better than anything else. It defaults to 10 on contrast and 10 on brightness. I usually turn the brightness down to about 8 since it is easier on my eyes, but doesn't make as bright a recording. Of course I don't know how that compares to tuning a Thermion since I haven't tried to tune or adjust one at all. Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't seen any recording that looks as good as it does looking through the ocular.

Doubleup, how do you get the video to youtube? I have a video set up with 8 video clips from my Thermion, but have no clue how to get it on youtube...don't you have to belong or register with youtube? I would like to get them posted but just don't know enough about this stuff. I will keep googling and see what I can come up with.
Also, you are right about varying conditions...I have found that even from stand to stand I might have to change from ID to Rock or Forest...different fields hold different amounts of moisture and the ground effects are different. I also tend to run mine a little lighter sometimes but that also depends on whether I am running black hot or white hot.
 
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Go on YouTube and register/ setup your own sight. It seemed to be fairly easy. Because I have Apple ipad I had to load an app called VLC which is where my videos are stored so they have sound.

For some reason Stream Vision with my Thermion does not play the sound. That’s why I have to use VLC app.
 
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Yes, you have to create an account with Youtube. I don't think it would be a problem, but so long ago I don't remember much about it.
 
Thanks guys...I will check into getting an account set up. I did browse youtube some last night and that was what I gathered...an account had to be set up...but our internet service was running extremely slow and kept kicking off. Appreciate the assistance.

Gene
 
With slow internet you will have to keep your videos pretty short or it will take a long long time to load them on youtube. One to two minutes I suspect would be best.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleUpWith slow internet you will have to keep your videos pretty short or it will take a long long time to load them on youtube. One to two minutes I suspect would be best.

Found that out...had a video about 7 minutes long...had 8 different clips in it...it hosed up my computer trying to send it. I currently have them broke down into 4 different videos now with 2 clips each. I will wait till things speed up and try them.
 
Hopefully the link will work. This is 2 video segments with vastly different humidity levels from the Thermion xp50. A little confusion in the 1st segment on who was shooting first and at which coyote, but you can see the clarity of the video. 2nd segment is very high humidity...almost a light fog...coyote was 165yds away.
While maybe not perfectly adjusted, these segments show just how good the image can be on the Thermion XP50 when adjusted properly.
I have 3 other segmented videos but they are not loading properly yet...hopefully my internet connection speeds up a little and I can post them.



 
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Very nice. I can't read what your settings are across the bottom to get my buddy to try them. We are located right on the east coast near large bodies of water, so most of our weather is high humidity.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleUpVery nice. I can't read what your settings are across the bottom to get my buddy to try them. We are located right on the east coast near large bodies of water, so most of our weather is high humidity.

I have a couple of more segmented videos with high humidity...one is 91% and foggy. I am struggling to get them going with my slow internet. Hopefully I can get them posted soon. My main modes are either Rock or Forest and adjust brightness/contrast accordingly. The objective end adjustment is also very critical to sharpening the image and the ocular(eyepiece) adjustment has to be tweaked too...I find that about every different stand requires some tweaking especially if the humidity is in the mid 80%. If humidity is minimal...60-75%, then you don't have to fiddle with it as much. Different fields we hunt seem to have different amounts of humidity/moisture associated with them, so it takes a few minutes to adjust the scope for each varying condition. I have also found that on some nights that either white hot or black hot seems to be better...don't know why that is, but have had times that one or the other worked better in getting a sharper image.
 
I have a thermion xq38. I realize it doesn’t have the 640 core but even with higher humidity accounted for, the image is lacking sometimes and I think it’s because I don’t have settings (mode, contrast, brightness) adjusted properly. How do you determine where you need the adjustment to clean up the image. I always mess with objective focus to get the image better but I think I could get a better image if I fully understood the mode settings. They don’t seem to change the image much when I scroll through them. I usually have it In id mode with the image booster on. What settings do you adjust that makes the biggest difference in your image quality? From watching your videos It seems like you really have it down. I pretty much always use white hot. Do you see a major difference in image quality from color palette to color palette? Is this something I should be scrolling through also to try to improve the image?
 
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Originally Posted By: ToroI have a thermion xq38. I realize it doesn’t have the 640 core but even with higher humidity accounted for, the image is lacking sometimes and I think it’s because I don’t have settings (mode, contrast, brightness) adjusted properly. How do you determine where you need the adjustment to clean up the image. I always mess with objective focus to get the image better but I think I could get a better image if I fully understood the mode settings. They don’t seem to change the image much when I scroll through them. I usually have it In id mode with the image booster on. What settings do you adjust that makes the biggest difference in your image quality? From watching your videos It seems like you really have it down. I pretty much always use white hot. Do you see a major difference in image quality from color palette to color palette? Is this something I should be scrolling through also to try to improve the image?
Toro, I used to have a Trail XQ38 and when I first got it I ran it primarily on ID mode...this gave me my best image, then Pulsar came out with some firmware updates and one was the addition of the "image boost"...after that I found my best image was obtained from either the Rock or Forest mode. This seems to also be true with my Thermion XP50...rock and forest mode seem to be best. The ID mode seems grainy and often times you seem to get a "bloom" effect off of the ground. Adjusting the brightness and contrast takes trial and error until you get the desired image and it varies from stand to stand. Adjusting the ocular and objective ends is also critical and it may not take a whole lot...just a little tweak and you will see it come in clear as a bell. I try to adjust or check the ocular end of the scope when the cover is closed...look at your header bar across the bottom and focus it till it is clear...then open the front lense cover and adjust the objective end...once that is clear go back and look at your header bar again and maybe tweak it just a little. As I stated, sometimes I have noticed that either white hot or black hot produced the best image for a given night...don't know why, but I primarily run on white hot but have had to switch to black hot if I just could not live with the image as it was.
 
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