Hogster 35 shutting off after shot

Spidicus

Spidicus

New member
Recently got my hogster 35. Had it out a couple times. Twice tonight after taking a shot the thermal would shut off and then immediately turn back on.. obviously when it shut off I could not see my bullets impact. The hogster is mounted on my suppressed AR15 223.
Any thoughts on why the thermal is doing this... or is this a send back to bering issue?
 
Call them ! A buddy and I just bought r35s and his has the same issue on the same rifle . I know he called and they are sending him a part to resolve it but as I talked to his wife and not him I am not sure what the part is ( though I suspect either a spring set or battery door ) . He did say the sight works fine on every other rifle he has tried it on , just the suppressed ar is the problem .

ETA

I have not mounted mine on anything to test it yet so I have no idea if mine will do same or not .
 
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Following this one

I'm on my second one. First one would shut off when I attached external battery and sometimes when I fired.

Bering was very good and replaced quickly now my second one shut off twice the other night.

I've checked and rechecked battery cap and connections.

I'm shooting it on a short barrel 6.5 rem mag bolt gun, with a very small suppressor. There is a lot of flash. Could these units have something that is shutting them down to protect them from excess light?

I'm going to put a large suppressor on this weekend to see if it keeps it from happening.
 
This is occurring due to a loss of connection to the power source. Here are the 3 things to check.

If using the TRB External Battery Pack from Night Goggles: There is a black plastic insert that connects the Anker Battery inside the case to the cable connected on the outside. This black insert needs to be firmly seated into the battery. After some use, I actually super glued my insert (to the inside case-not the battery) because after years of use, it can get a little loose.

If using CR123s: The battery door may seem tight, but it may not be securely closed. Make sure it securely snapped shut all the way around. It could be this or a set of batteries that isn't fitting correctly. Some CR123s have a longer positive terminals and can cause issues if not long enough. In rare case, it could be a spring issue not creating enough pressure in the battery compartment. I would try a different set of batteries and make sure the door is tight.

Mount: The Hogsters are rated up to a 308, so a .223 shouldn't be an issue. However, I talked to one customer who was having this happen and after troubleshooting, he asked me if it is normal that his scope has some play in it. When I asked what he meant he said his scope wiggles a little bit. Number one, it would never be able to hold zero like this, and number two that extra play/wiggle was causing a fairly violent shake every time it was shot, and again causing the scope to turn off. When you mount your Hogster, adjust the tension adjustment on the right side of the mount, so it is so tight that you can barely get the locking handle closed. Many picatinny rails have different tolerances. For virtually every Hogster I mount mine on, I have to adjust it to get it to fit perfectly.

If none of these three items corrects your issue, then I would contact Bering optics at 817-453-9966 or at sales@beringoptics.com.
 
These are good suggestions. Im pretty sure the battery door was closed.. but certainly will double check. Im using energizer cr123 batts so I will try some Duracell Batts. I think my mount is tight but I will check that also.. that could be an issue because I do take the scope off the gun the scan with then I re-attach when critters are spotted. But it does take a little force to open the lever to re-attach.
 
Originally Posted By: SpidicusThese are good suggestions. Im pretty sure the battery door was closed.. but certainly will double check. Im using energizer cr123 batts so I will try some Duracell Batts. I think my mount is tight but I will check that also.. that could be an issue because I do take the scope off the gun the scan with then I re-attach when critters are spotted. But it does take a little force to open the lever to re-attach. As far as double-checking the battery door, I have even heard the audible click sound it makes when shut and found that one end seated and the other did not. If not using a battery pack, this is another consideration as then you are bypassing the internal batteries and any internal battery connection issue.

As for mounting and shooting, then you need to be extra sure everything is very tight to maintain your zero as best you can since you are removing and attaching on a regular basis. You are a better man than me trying to scan, mount, and shoot with the same optic.
 
Following this as well. Mine did that out of the box when using the TRB battery pack. It stopped doing it for a while but recently started doing it again.

I'll follow Kirsch' recommendations again and check next time out.
 
Originally Posted By: Burnsome...Following this as well. Mine did that out of the box when using the TRB battery pack. It stopped doing it for a while but recently started doing it again.

I'll follow Kirsch' recommendations again and check next time out. Burnsome, that little black insert piece is the culprit. If that is seated tight against the battery, it should be fine. If it seems a little loose, just add a few drops of super glue, and then it will always stay in place. A person still has to make sure the battery is seated 100% and the door is tight, but this is almost always the problem. If it continues, give Night Goggles a call and do a return on the TRB.
 
Weird as my Pulsar Trail shutoff on me today along with the screen going dark and my crosshairs disappeared too.

My Trail is mounted on a suppressed BA in .243. It’s not a full moon yet but something is at work ...lol
 
My scope does this now too. I had to send the scope in to to have the screen repaired. It was doing the whole freeze thing in the cold. The scope was not shutting down after being shot, now it is? I have the scope mounted on a .224 Valkyrie. I really liked the scope at first. I have a feeling I am going to be letting it go at a discount price or seeing if I can trade it in or something. It’s a shame. I really wanted to like the scope. I don’t have time for all of these head aches.
 
My cousin has a hogster 35. He bought it 10 months ago. Used it a couple times last year. He said his reticle has been disappearing intermittently and believes it’s not holding zero. Bering told him to send it back. I got the 25 last month and so far no problems.
 
Originally Posted By: bobschauberMy scope does this now too. I had to send the scope in to to have the screen repaired. It was doing the whole freeze thing in the cold. The scope was not shutting down after being shot, now it is? I have the scope mounted on a .224 Valkyrie. I really liked the scope at first. I have a feeling I am going to be letting it go at a discount price or seeing if I can trade it in or something. It’s a shame. I really wanted to like the scope. I don’t have time for all of these head aches. This is only a guess but I don't believe the screen shutting off has anything to do with the screen being changed. As already described earlier in this thread, this is almost always a power situation not a screen issue. If you are running a battery pack (such as the TRB), it is usually the plastic connection that connects the battery pack to the plug. If not the TRB, again check your connections. If you are using internal batteries, it is either the battery type, the springs aren't putting enough pressure to maintain contact, or the door is not making proper connection.

I realize it is frustrating when equipment doesn't work as you expect. However, I can tell you of all the brands Night Goggles carries (including Trijicon, Pulsar and Flir), Bering Optics has been our most dependable brand with the least returns of any of them. If you check these things, and it still is doing it, call Bering and they should be able to help you out. This is not an un-fixable problem.
 
Originally Posted By: ToroMy cousin has a hogster 35. He bought it 10 months ago. Used it a couple times last year. He said his reticle has been disappearing intermittently and believes it’s not holding zero. Bering told him to send it back. I got the 25 last month and so far no problems. Just an FYI, if he is pressing all 3 buttons on top of his scope, the reticle will disappear as it is a feature and designed to work this way. Maybe not be applicable but mentioning in case.

As for not holding zero, your cousin needs to make sure his tension on his mount is as tight as possible. It should be so tight, he can barely get the lever closed. It is surprising to me how many people believe picatinny rails are all the same.

For everyone with any thermal scope, write down your horizontal and vertical adjustments in the event you accidently hit the reset option in the menu.
 
Thanks Kirsch. I am running the same CR123a sure fires that I was using before. I am doing everything the same as before. I guess the pair of batteries that are in the scope could be a hair smaller. But at that point that is still a defect in the scope. The scope should be made to handle slight variances in batteries. I do have experiences with Flir and Pulsar. I have the original Flir Rs 35 rifle scope, Flir pts 233, Flir pts536 and a pulsar helion. I have had to deal with the Flir customer service. It took months to get my scope back and forth. They took great care of me, but it was a long process. The three Flir units have been through countless hunts with no issues. The one issue that I did have was a charger port breaking inside the scope. They sent me a whole new scope, no questions asked! I can’t get a single hunt out of this thing. I love the clarity of the hogster, I love the picture in picture! To be honest it is much easier to operate than my other units. I would love for this thing to work. The last time I was with out a scope for two weeks, now I will lose another two weeks. That is a month of my few month hunting season gone. All that being said I am going to take out the batteries that are in the scope and measure them verses my other batteries and see. I also tighten my scope mounts very tight so I know it is not that. I have had problems with that in the past. Thank you by the way for taking your time to get on here and help everyone with everything.
 
I totally understand your frustration. It also doesn't help when you hear from someone like me that it doesn't happen to them. I do assume it is a battery issue. It could be as simple as either the battery door isn't seating properly or the spring isn't causing enough pressure. If it is the door, Bering can hopefully just send you a new battery door. If is a spring issue, Bering can potentially provide some insight.

One thing to get through the season and worry about it later, would be to use a battery pack. If using a battery pack, you are bypassing the typical power source of the Hogster. It is just something to consider so you can get through this hunting season.
 
Unfortunately I am having a similar issue on one H35R. I've been using my SH35 for a few months without issue. I also have been using 2 different H35's. One has a similar issue shutting off after the first shot. It's been frustrating but I think it's the battery door. Not sure yet though.

One odd thing between the 2 H35's. One starts up by just tapping the power button. The other one you will have to hold the button down 4 to 5 seconds before it starts up. The one that starts up by just tapping the power button has been the one that has been shutting off. Not sure if that means anything or not but I have found it odd and have run down the batteries a couple of times as the button was accidentally pressed.
 
The issue my cousin was having with his 35 not holding zero was resolved. He was zeroing with external battery attached and it wasn’t saving his adjustments. I found your directions for zeroing with external battery in a previous post and sent them to him. He is good now. We will see if the reticle issue continues but I have a feeling that may have been user error. Thanks for the information kirsch.
 
Update. I finally talked with bering. They will send another battery compartment cap. While I was talking to bering I was inspecting and playing with the cap.
I noticed that when I close the cap if I hold the knob to the right so the snap ears are completely extended and push the cap closed at the same time I will get a pronounced double click of each ear snapping into the locked position.
If I don't hold the knob to the right and just push the cap closed I only hear a much less audible single click.. this leads me to believe if I don't hold the knob to the right as I close the cap and get the double click. The cap is not closing all the way even though there are no visible gaps and I can't see the O-ring and can't pull the cap off without turning the knob to the left. So now I just need to go shoot and see if I lose power. After I figured out how to get the cap to double snap.
 
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