willy1947
Active member
Originally Posted By: 204 AROriginally Posted By: willy1947Originally Posted By: 204 AROriginally Posted By: Plant.OneOriginally Posted By: 204 ARMore testing with the teflon tape wrap reveals some very interesting stuff. First, testing with the tape off vs on, at 200 yards without it I get 2" groups, with it under an inch every time. But the problem with the tape, poi moves slightly to significantly when I remove/replace the supressor. It is very sensitive to how much tape and how it is applied. Groups remain great but might be 1/2" to several inches away.
So, each time the can is removed for cleaning, the best method might be removing all the old tape, re-applying it exactly the same way, then checking zero and making adjustments before going hunting. This is not an ideal situation at all.
But I definitely proved to myself that good fitting threads make a big difference in accuracy.
might be worth sending the tube in then to have the threads corrected - at least now that you know you've got a potential shooter on your hands. make the poorly manufactured threads go bye bye.
if you got enough length, i would probably just have the barrel cut at the shoulder where the current threading is and just re-threaded.
ADCO does nice work and generally turns stuff around quick. $75 + shipping. includes a Target crown too as part of the work, no charge.
they've done several barrels for me - including my 223 WOA varmint and will continue to get my work in the future when needed. very happy customer.
https://adcofirearms.com/shop/gunsmithing/arstandard-barrel-threading/
And that's probably the best way. The nice thing is I can get it done locally, and take my suppressor in and have the threads matched perfectly. I have little doubt that the suppressor threads are worn a little as well, and a replacement end cap from Sico is an option also.
Does the fellow use thread micrometers or wires to measure the threads?
What type of go & no-go gauges does he use to check the treads in you can.
Does he use a preformed threading tool and plunge straight in or use a hand ground tool and set at 29 degrees?
Does the maker of your suppressor tell you what class of thread they are?
I store my Specwar in the pouch when not in use not on the end of my barrel.
I was told right by this group when I bought my Specwar.
Holy crap Willy, I have no answers to any of that. I just know his threads run tight and that's good enough for this idiot.
You are not an idiot. I worked in tool and die trade for 40 years.
There is a lot of stuff that is behind the nut and bolt.
Tighten and release your can 3X.
So the treads can deform and give you a better fit that will last.
Remember barrel steel is soft so they can drill that long hole.
So, each time the can is removed for cleaning, the best method might be removing all the old tape, re-applying it exactly the same way, then checking zero and making adjustments before going hunting. This is not an ideal situation at all.
But I definitely proved to myself that good fitting threads make a big difference in accuracy.
might be worth sending the tube in then to have the threads corrected - at least now that you know you've got a potential shooter on your hands. make the poorly manufactured threads go bye bye.
if you got enough length, i would probably just have the barrel cut at the shoulder where the current threading is and just re-threaded.
ADCO does nice work and generally turns stuff around quick. $75 + shipping. includes a Target crown too as part of the work, no charge.
they've done several barrels for me - including my 223 WOA varmint and will continue to get my work in the future when needed. very happy customer.
https://adcofirearms.com/shop/gunsmithing/arstandard-barrel-threading/
And that's probably the best way. The nice thing is I can get it done locally, and take my suppressor in and have the threads matched perfectly. I have little doubt that the suppressor threads are worn a little as well, and a replacement end cap from Sico is an option also.
Does the fellow use thread micrometers or wires to measure the threads?
What type of go & no-go gauges does he use to check the treads in you can.
Does he use a preformed threading tool and plunge straight in or use a hand ground tool and set at 29 degrees?
Does the maker of your suppressor tell you what class of thread they are?
I store my Specwar in the pouch when not in use not on the end of my barrel.
I was told right by this group when I bought my Specwar.
Holy crap Willy, I have no answers to any of that. I just know his threads run tight and that's good enough for this idiot.
You are not an idiot. I worked in tool and die trade for 40 years.
There is a lot of stuff that is behind the nut and bolt.
Tighten and release your can 3X.
So the treads can deform and give you a better fit that will last.
Remember barrel steel is soft so they can drill that long hole.
