need some help???

Bear

Bear

New member
I've been reloading for 35 years and have a first time problem. I"m loading for a new Savage Axis 22-250 and here is my problem, the reloads won't chamber, I mean the bolt closes hard and they get stuck in the chamber. I've full length resized them with a small base die,trimmed them .007 under trim to length,and made sure the bullet is not hitting the rifling. They won't cycle loaded or fired. What else can I do or try??
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Your bolt may be binding. As in too rough and needs some polishing. I had same rifle that did similar. Took to local old time smith n thats what he found. He fixed it. It may not be your loads at all.
 
Did you rotate the bolt face, or reassemble incorrectly. Have had one Savage 22-250 that a fired, from same rifle, case would not chamber again. Noticed scratches on the neck, there were 3 small burrs in the chamber neck. Smith cleaned them up with a reamer. Some reloaded rounds also would not chamber properly.
 
It may be apples and oranges.....Some time ago I bought a Savage Mod12,308. It was suppose to be
"like new" and it looked like it. Brought it home, cleaned it good, mounted a scope, all the things you normally do with a new to me rifle. I loaded up 20 or so rounds of 168 SMK's to 2.800 which is a pretty normal length for a 308. Got to the range and had the same issues as your having, I couldn't close the bolt. Went home and got my OAL gauge out with a 168SMK and the throat was way short. Either Savage cut a short throat in this rifle or someone had it set way back. My smith ran a SAMMI reamer in it and recut the chamber and fixed the problem.

You might want to check your OAL, it might be the same problem. Is there any marks on the bullet? Mine looked like it was jammed an eighth of an inch.
 
I would look at both of the things Greg and Psycodog have stated...I’ve loaded for a 204 Ruger, with a small base die, and still had to bump them back further. I’ve also seen rough chambers. Might throw a polishing buffer with some jewelers rouge on it and polish it up a bit.
 
It will feed factory shells,so I set my reloads to the same length as factory. I measured off the ogive and set the reloads to match factory loads.I think I'll have it reamed to an AI.
 
Why are you using a small base FL die? Generally, small base FL dies are reserved for use in semi autos.

How far down is the FL die screwed in and is it touching the shell holder.

Are you getting any cam over on the press when you FL size the brass?

I ask because a small base die sizes the body of the brass slightly more than a standard FL die. If you don't have the die screwed down far enough, your brass will actually come out of the die with the shoulder pushed forward and will be longer from base to shoulder.

You can trim the neck completely off and it will have no affect on how the brass fits in the chamber or how easy or hard the bolt closes. It sounds like you need to screw the die down further and bump the shoulder back.
 
I have the die set so it cams over and I only used the small base die after I tried everything else I could think of. I bought the brass from someone here on Predator Masters and thought they may have been shot in an AR10 so I used the small base die just to eliminate that possibility. I short cut the necks because I thought that maybe I had a short cut chamber.Just trying to eliminate every thing I can think of.
 
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You seem to be a classic case of not bumping the shoulder enough. Cam over set on the shell holder doesn't guarantee enough. Grind about 0.010 off the holder and adjust your die and I'd bet a dollar to a donut your issue will go away. Going to an AI with the wrong dies might even leave you in the same boat.

I had this exact problem with an M1A and a Grendel set up. On the 308 I ground the die and on the other I ground the holder. Always grind the cheap part!! LOL

Greg
 
Originally Posted By: BearI think I'll have it reamed to an AI.

Not sure if you meant this the same as you wrote it, but just having the chamber reamed to an AI isn't how you want it done. To do it right you want some of the chamber end cut off, then, have it reamed. Otherwise you'll end up with excessive headspace.

As I mentioned before and GLShooter said above, I'm pretty sure your problem is you aren't bumping the shoulder back, either enough, or not at all.

Also, I'd stop using that small base FL die and stick to using a standard FL die.
 
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Drill press subs for a lathe to shave a few thousandths off shell holder.

Grind a 1/4" bolt head down so head does not protrude above shell holder to make a mandrel. Use a flat surface to support emery cloth and have at it.

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49588978421_0913a4567c_m.jpg
49588490973_9450c793d4_m.jpg


Regards,
hm
 
Have you tried to chamber a just sized not loaded case? You said factory shells work fine

If they don't chamber try sizing without the expander ball, you might be pulling the shoulder back out with the expander ball.

If they chamber them you have a bullet seating problem, possible case mouth slightly hitting the crimp ring and pushing the shoulder out..
 
Originally Posted By: hm1996Drill press subs for a lathe to shave a few thousandths off shell holder.

Grind a 1/4" bolt head down so head does not protrude above shell holder to make a mandrel. Use a flat surface to support emery cloth and have at it.

49588486748_51be9e2ded_m.jpg
49588978421_0913a4567c_m.jpg
49588490973_9450c793d4_m.jpg


Regards,
hm

That'll work. I just use a pair of vice grips and the side of a bench grinder wheel. It doesn't have to be dead nuts level. I don't do the cam over dance and many of my dies never touch the shell holder.

The A-30 and the 22-MXS have never been loaded touching the holder. I loaded hundreds of 20 LBC rounds using a 6 PPC die and they never came close. I've never had chambering issues not touching the holders.

Greg
 
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