Starting load & sighting in question

W

wileC

New member
Working up some loads for my new 7600 30-06 in inter bond 165 grain. Hornady has a starting of 42.4 with max of 51.9. Lyman shows 47.0 starting and 52 max with a 165 jacketed ballistic tip. The several posts I find show guys having the best luck with anything from 46.5 up to 50+. Starting at 42.4 and working my way up seems like it could result in a lot of waste. Thoughts?? Also at what distance does one recommend working these loads with open sights? Thanks
 
2 different brand bullets or any component change will, for safety reasons alone, require load development. The distance you chose will depend on your ability(eye sight) and the type of open sights. I would probably shoot at 50 yards and try and duplicate a factory load.
 
With any rifle and any bullet what I do is I load from 2-1/2gr below the average Max. and load six different charges in groups of three up the average Max.

Example:
165gr bullet
Powder: Average Max. load from as many sources as possible = 52gr.
49.5gr
50gr
50.5gr
51.0gr
51.5gr
52.0gr
 
Well, you got to do what you got to do. You dont need to burn a lot of powder in load development if you aren't looking for the best accuracy.

Especially if you're shooting open sight under 200 yards, you dont need .5MOA groups.

Start low and working up to higher charges is the best way to go but maybe you dont need to start at the lowest charge.

Personally with the loading manual number you showed I would load 3 at 44gr or 45gr then work up maybe even one whole grain of powder at a time, 45gr, 46gr, 47gr, 48gr...etc.

Normally I work up at .2-.5gr increments but open sites in a big 3006 shouldn't need that fine of detail.
 
Originally Posted By: George FosterWith any rifle and any bullet what I do is I load from 2-1/2gr below the average Max. and load six different charges in groups of three up the average Max.

Example:
165gr bullet
Powder: Average Max. load from as many sources as possible = 52gr.
49.5gr
50gr
50.5gr
51.0gr
51.5gr
52.0gr

That is pretty much my technique on the big cases. On the little guys like the Grendel,6.8 and 223 I use 0.3 grain increments and start about 5% below max as 0.5 is a bit much on them for sorting out good performers.

Greg
 
I load working up in 1 gr increments with 3 rounds checking for pressure at each increment. When I find an accurate 3 shot group I then go + & - 1/2 grain on either side and including the accurate load but with 5 shot groups. Whichever load gives the best 5 shot group is "the" load. I also put a sand bag between the buttstock and my shoulder for the larger bores so I don't develop a flinch. Otherwise by the time you get to the upper charges you might have a flinch that throws your groups off and you will not find that accurate group. Later on you can sight in with that load and a normal shooting posture.
 
I always like to know where the top is. Not guess. Move through the lower ranges with larger increments. Proceed in smaller increments up high.

If you are new to loading, there is no wasted time seeing actual velocity and accuracy vs internet banter. There is something to learn for the person with the sharp eye.
 
I pretty much do as Hellgate does. I always start at the starting load, and try a couple different powders.IMR 4064 and 3031 seem to cover my "Deer Rifles" . Before you start I suggest reading "understanding pressure" That was a real eye opener for me.
 
One can also consider the round & gun, even the action type. As an extreme example, say one is shooting a modern 30-30, strong action. Since this is an old, rather low pressure round, no need to start at the bottom unless wanting to, plinking, whatever.

I have a newer, bolt, CZ in 6.5x55 Swede. It’s a lower pressure round, compared to the 6.5 Creedmore. Do I jump right to max or above, no
 
Using my 270 as an example. I prep 18 rounds. Then usually start towards the bottom and work up loading 3, then bump a grain until I get to book max. That's 6 different powder charges. If I find two or three close together in accuracy, I start over and bump each charge a half grain. Usually something in between will shoot good. Then if I want to squeeze even more out of it I will start messing with seating depth. Alot depends on the rifle and its use. My deer rifles don't have to shoot bug holes even though it would be nice if they did. An inch and under makes me a happy camper. Oh, and I do my testing at 100yds.
 
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