Getting into reloading, FINALLY!

+1 on the I-gauging caliper
+1 Imperial Wax case lube
+1 on don’t spend money on tumbler till you need it
Forster trimmer is ok, if Redding makes the trim dies for your calibers they work fine. Don’t get the rcbs trim dies they act as a sizer too.
For regular fl sizers definitely get the Forster, there expander works smoother and is set up higher in the die to work better at keeping your brass concentric.
 
Forster Dies.
Imperial wax
Read and undertstand your reloading manual.I would suggest reading it more than once.
Pick one rifle and don't have components or data for more than one at a time on your mind.
Take your time.
 
I started out trimming with an RCBS trim die and a flat bastard file. As a matter of fact i still have that set up for a caliber or two.

Now i use a little crow drill trimmer and the L.E. Wilson set up for other things. I like what DAA said about a trimmer being a trimmer. The L.E. Wilson is nice as it only cost around $12 for a new case holder for a different caliber.

I have an RCBS hand primer and love that thing.

This hobby will suck up your time, energy and money. Honestly if you have kids, a busy life, and rifles that shoot lights out with factory ammo i would recommend just keep on keeping on.

I feel like a drug attic telling a sober person to come jump on the train.

This is not rocket science. But... There is no way to wade into the water without wasting tons of time and money screwing around at the 100 yard range learning all the lessons.

I know a few people who have loaded for years and still can't figure out shoulder bump on a case and are still confused about base to ogive measurements and such.

An RCBS Charge-master is real nice for load development if you have money. Everybody on here chose a different path for an occupation. Some can't believe how another could spend up, others can buy this stuff with absolute financial ease.
 
I can't imagine reloading without a tumbler. I tumble and then drain media and then blow with compressed air and visually check primer pocket is clean of media. Clean brass is happy brass. Helps keep your dies clean. I also use a universal decapping die to start the process then dump the brass in the tumbler then its all nice and shiny clean to lube and size.
 
Trimming is probably not necessary for most cartridges, particularly custom barrels with alpha brass and good handloading techniques.

For other types of barrels and brass, especially range pickup 223 or for just starting with a consistent baseline case length, it's so darn easy to trim to max length every time with the $25 Holub Machine & Repair World's Cheapest Trimmer trimmer or the $75 Little Crow Gunworks World's Finest Trimmer with inserts type cutters that fit on your cordless drill. So fast and easy! The Little Crow trimmer has changable inserts for multiple calibers but it's a minor pain to re-set the length every time you change to a new caliber/cartridge. Better off buying one HMR WFT trimmer for each caliber and set it n forget it for simplicity. Purchasing 3 HMR WFTs is cheaper than most hand crank mini-lathe trimmers.

Trimming by hand, one at a time, on a hand crank mini-lathe, is a pain in the [beeep] and takes forever. Plus they are expensive. This was my least favorite chore. Glad I ditched ghis method for something SO MUCH faster and easier.
 
Originally Posted By: BangFlopDAA,

What do you feel I don't need Sir? Also, you do not trim at all?

I'll check out a hand primer. I do want one, just trying to get quality tools that I need up front. Once I get that initial expense out of the pay (gets pretty expensive), then I will add wants if I think it will make my end result better. Not looking for fast or high volume.

Thanks so much!
Steve


I really don't trim, at all. Except when necessary for forming wildcats from longer parent brass. But working brass? I haven't been bothered to trim a working case in a very long time.

But... It's probably a good idea to just ignore what I do, on that, for now.

Other items on your list that I don't use, there is no harm in trying them. They might fit in with your style just fine. I used to use some of them, but stopped a long time ago.

Like, primer pocket cleaner and neck brushes. Used them for a long time, but eventually decided they weren't really useful and don't anymore.

The Chargemaster, lots of guys really like those, and I wouldn't try to talk anyone out of it. But, it would just slow me down, for the way I go about it. I don't weigh charges either, though. Which, again, maybe best to ignore how I do things, for now.

Have never had an OAL gauge myself and don't really see any purpose for it. Set the die with caliper and comparator and then what's the gauge for?

You could consider using Nev'r dull and a rag instead of steel wool - it's easier. I just swipe the necks with Nev'r dull.

- DAA
 
The HMR doesn’t come in 7mm-08, so I’d be back to needing something else. I don’t understand the Lil Crow, it trims off the shoulder versus COAL. How does that work if using 2 different rifles of the same caliber??

I did the Chargemaster as it was actually the same price as the kit with stuff I really didn’t want and the addition of a trickler.

How do you set the die with just a caliper and comparator? Don’t you need the OAL gage to know where your rifling is in order to set die with comparator? You confused me buddy. Please help.

Thanks all.
 
Originally Posted By: BangFlop
How do you set the die with just a caliper and comparator? Don’t you need the OAL gage to know where your rifling is in order to set die with comparator? You confused me buddy. Please help.

Thanks all.

Ah. I was thinking you meant one of the window type gauges for checking loaded rounds. You mean the Hornady deal with the modified cases for finding the lands.

Again, I wouldn't worry too much about what I or anyone else does. You'll find your own preferences as you go. But, for what little it is worth, that gauge is my personal least favorite method for getting that job done. I did mess with one quite a bit, even tapping my own cases for wildcats and tight necks and such.

I find the Cajun/Sinclair tool more easily repeatable and positive. And for myself, would choose it over the Hornady.

I usually don't use either one though.
laugh.gif
. I prefer the jam method. But I often start load work in firm contact, too.

- DAA
 
DAA

I would love to hear how you go about it. I’m not sure I will be able or what to jam the bullet in the lands as I only have factory rifles, and between long throat and short mags I won’t be able to without single loading. I’m all about saving money on something not needed to spend it on something more important to accuracy.

Thanks Sir,
Steve
 
You do not need an AOL gauge or comparator to begin with. They may help you later. I make really accurate loads and never use mine any more. The RCBS dies are just fine. The Lee's are just fine. You have die snobs that swear you need to spend $200 on some. The cheap ones work just as good and you can always buy whatever later.
As far as trimmers, the cheap Lee ones work good. I still use them for some Calibers. You can always upgrade as you see fit. For my ARs I use the WCT.
For a primer pocket cleaner I have a Lee but don't even know the last time I used it. If I need to I use a flat head. You don't need a tumbler. Dirty brass shoots just as good as clean brass.
I use a cheap plastic funnel. Hornady Unique Case Lube is outstanding. A caliper comes in handy. I have a Cabela's brand.
People will try to pressure you into buying things that you don't really need. Not everybody can afford it. I would stick to the basics to begin with and you can always upgrade slowly as you want or need. This can be a REALLY expensive hobby but doesn't need to be. You can spend a lot of money but don't necessarily need to all at once.
 
Originally Posted By: BangFlopI don’t understand the Lil Crow, it trims off the shoulder versus COAL. How does that work if using 2 different rifles of the same caliber??
Case length should be somewhere between minimum and maximum. Since I trim every time (it's super easy) I set the length at or near maximum length.

If you have two rifles in the same caliber, say 223, that likely have slightly different chambers, and use the same FL sizing die, then the shoulders will be in the same place after FL sizing and the trimmed length will be the same. If you're using seperate sizing dies, set the trimmer so that it trims both cases to acceptable lengths at the same setting.

It's not as complicated nor as critical as you're thinking. In my understanding, I simply trim every time for case consistency. High end benchrest type shooters with custom chambers etc don't trim because they have custom tight tolerance dies that were cut with the same reamer as their chamber and as a result their cases don't grow. The factory guns you describe in this post will require you to trim the brass cases at some point due to sloppy factory chambers that cause case growth.

When benchrest shooters or high end types describe specialized handloading techniques that don't apply to the basic handloader, it's like a Nascar mechanic saying his engine maintenance techniques don't apply to Toyota Prius owners. Because they don't apply. And monster truck drivers advice on tires and suspension don't apply to your F150.
 
Thanks everyone!

I want to keep the process as simple as possible, especially in the beginning. I appreciate everyone helping me, and trying to keep it simple. The more I research and read on forums, the more complicated it all seems. I have no problem adding specific tasks or steps but just want to get started.

Appreciate you all for taking time to respond with great advise!

Steve
 
Man if you're shooting 1 hole groups with factory ammo why reload for those rifles? You're not saving money to get to that performance normally, and the're obviously available. I started reloading to save $ on 257 wby. And to tailor loads to my rifles. Its tough to talor better than 1 holers. Load for rifles that can improve.
 
Originally Posted By: mbaysinger89Man if you're shooting 1 hole groups with factory ammo why reload for those rifles? You're not saving money to get to that performance normally, and the're obviously available. I started reloading to save $ on 257 wby. And to tailor loads to my rifles. Its tough to talor better than 1 holers. Load for rifles that can improve.
There are free apps like Reloading Assistant and excel spreadsheets that will help you determine reloading costs and evaluate break even points of buying reloading equipment and loading your own vs buying factory ammo. In my case, I broke even after one year just shooting 223 at varmints with my $600 investment. Since then I've added a few tools like an RCBS Chargemaster and better trimmers, but the savings over store bought ammo is insane. There's no need to buy a garage full of reloading gizmos and then claim you don't save any money because you buy tons of tools. Just get what you need.

For example, I'm handloading super accurate lead free 6DTI hunting ammo for $6.76/box of 20. My 223 with 52gr HP costs $4.27/box 20.
 
mbaysinger89

I want to get into reloading for the enjoyment of something I crafted. But the main reason is availability of ammunition in my area. I bought 3 boxes of Federal ammunition loaded with 168 gr Barnes Elite Hunter in 308 Win from Midway. It shot amazing, so I tried to order more and they are out of stock. I bought 3 boxes of Nosler 120 gr Ballistic in 7mm-08 from Cabelas (shipped from 1 store). It shot well, so i ordered 4 more boxes, each box shipped from 4 different Cabelas stores. I'm over that. Not to mention, I want to try bullets that are not available in factory.

Thanks All
 
Everyone keeps forgetting to let you know to by a shovel as well, gonna need it for cleaning out the hole you keep digging yourself into. Seriously it’s a very fun and rewarding hobby to get into, I think you will enjoy it, I sure do.
 
A great feeling of satisfaction comes when you turn the lights out on your 1st animal with a hand-load. Instead of just blinking your eyes and reflecting quietly, you will think 30X grains of something, _________ primer, 3X fired XYZ brand brass, 20 though off the lands and 3000fps on a 60° day, 4 rounds fired for copper fouling and on and on and on.

Its and addiction.

Things will go just fine as long as you remember that you can't reload your way out of a bad barrel. I have tried twice. And learned a great deal from all the documentation.

It is truly a great waste of time.

If a bullet is not shooting with a couple recommended powders... Change the bullet!!!!
 
These guys have given a lot of good advise.

It's a journey, not a destination. You'll learn a lot & have a lot of fun along the way. And you'll enjoy some satisfaction when the game you take is with the ammo you personally worked up for that gun.

You won't really save any money though
wink.gif
 
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