Getting into reloading, FINALLY!

BangFlop

Member
I have been debating on starting to reload for rifle ammunition for the past 3 years or so. A lot of talk and a lot of research, however, today I committed with my first purchases:

RCBS Rock Chucker
RCBS Chargemaster Lite
Nosler Reload Manual 8th Edition
2 lbs of Benchmark

I still have a bunch of stuff to get, hopefully within the next month or so I will be up and running. Still undecided on a few things. I want quality stuff, yet nothing I don’t “need” to get started.

This is what I’m thinking:

Dies - probably just do the RCBS 2 die set in 223, 7-08 and 308
Powder - will add probably 8lb of Varget for 7-08, 308 and a backup 223 powder
Primers - think CCI BR2 and BR4
Trimmer - leaning L.E Wilson w/ Micrometer, but hear so much good about the cheap Lee trimmer with stem and cutter.
OAL Gage - Hornady
Comparator - Hornady
Funnel - not super concerned with this I guess
Primer Pocket Cleaner - thinking Lee or RCBS brushes
Neck Brushes - RCBS with handle
Case Lube - either Imperial Sizing wax or Hornady One Shot
Brass - Lapua, Peterson, Starline ... I know Lapua is the best, but man, if a guy starts ejecting a bunch of them in the snow it’ll get really expensive LOL
Brass cleaning - clean rag and some steel wool at least to start (no range pick ups)

Thoughts?
Steve
 
My thoughts, you've got a good list going, I'd make a couple of changes. For dies, I find Redding to be a little nicer made, and Forster are great, I also like Hornady better than RCBS, though they are perfectly serviceable most of the time. I'd skip the oal gauge and get a dial caliper. Satern aluminum funnels are great, but the plastic ones are serviceable. I've used a truckload of One Shot and never a problem. Fine steel wool works great to clean brass, it just takes a while and is kind of messy. When I started I had one of the Lee case holders chucked up to a motor and spun them while I steel wooled then brushed the necks. Nice looking brass but labor intensive.
 
Make sure you do not inhale or have skin contact with one shot. A 4 decimal digital caliper and bullet comparator is fast for adjusting seating depth.
 
The addition of hornady bullet comparator set is among the smartest things ive ever done. Measures off of the more consistent ogive of the bullet, rather than the tip.
I also added the hornady headspace gages to that comparator set. Now i know how much i bump the case shoulder back within a reasonable amount. I can pretty much see when ive bumped .002”.

My next smart move.....wink wink lol...... is gonna be the lyman case prep center. Santa clause may help me out there. I am
Such a good boy! The thing that broke me over on it is the fact that i can add my hand held lee case length gages to it and trim my cases with its turning power. It will be faster than doing by hand, or even using my lyman lathe trimmer. Check it out on youtube.

Nearing 30 yrs......and im finally getting smarter and faster at reloading ammo.....maybe. Lol.
 
Its hard to do... It is so fun to dive in and such but....

I recommend starting with just one caliber. Buy a chronograph and 3-4 types of factory ammo with a clearly identifiable bullets that can be purchased as a component from Brownells, Midway or Midsouth.

Test each for accuracy, velocity and velocity spread, COAL and as much data as you can gather. Then record your results.

Note the winning bullet type, accuracy and velocity.

Buy a box of 100, buy 2 types of powder and 2 different brands of primers.

Accuracy comes in load windows. To find the distinct top and bottom of the window takes painstaking effort and working in 1/10's all around where you think the middle is.

Changing powder types will change the velocity you get that window in. It will also provide a larger or smaller window.

Measure your fired case and only bump the shoulder back .003 at the most for bolt rifles. This die setting changes as the brass gets worked.

Sierra bullet tips vary .020 sometimes. COAL's can wander like crazy. Where that bullet seater touches your bullet will always be the same though. Don't sweat COAL variation at all ok?

Get a brass tumbler and use corn media from Frankfort Arsenal if you can.

1 thing at one time. Everything needs an explanation.

Many folks here that can help.

This takes a long time to master.

Just because you loaded perfect identical powder charges and all the stuff means absolutely nothing to accuracy.

It all starts with the bullet type and the barrel.

Then can be fine tuned with powder charge and barrel harmonics.
 
Originally Posted By: arlaunchIts hard to do... It is so fun to dive in and such but....

I recommend starting with just one caliber. Buy a chronograph and 3-4 types of factory ammo with a clearly identifiable bullets that can be purchased as a component from Brownells, Midway or Midsouth.

Test each for accuracy, velocity and velocity spread, COAL and as much data as you can gather. Then record your results.

Note the winning bullet type, accuracy and velocity.

Buy a box of 100, buy 2 types of powder and 2 different brands of primers.

Accuracy comes in load windows. To find the distinct top and bottom of the window takes painstaking effort and working in 1/10's all around where you think the middle is.

Changing powder types will change the velocity you get that window in. It will also provide a larger or smaller window.

Measure your fired case and only bump the shoulder back .003 at the most for bolt rifles. This die setting changes as the brass gets worked.

Sierra bullet tips vary .020 sometimes. COAL's can wander like crazy. Where that bullet seater touches your bullet will always be the same though. Don't sweat COAL variation at all ok?

Get a brass tumbler and use corn media from Frankfort Arsenal if you can.

1 thing at one time. Everything needs an explanation.

Many folks here that can help.

This takes a long time to master.

Just because you loaded perfect identical powder charges and all the stuff means absolutely nothing to accuracy.

It all starts with the bullet type and the barrel.

Then can be fine tuned with powder charge and barrel harmonics.



I'd advocate the opposite. There's too many variables in the above advice for a beginner. There is no need to try to "copy" a factory load. Most of my rifles have never even seen a factory cartridge. I have no need to ever use factory ammo nor to buy a rifle based on what ammo is available at stores.

Instead, pick one rifle to start. Do some research and select one bullet you want to use.

Research some more and select one powder for that bullet. In modern times, there is no reason to use older "classic" temp-unstable powders. Pick a newer modern powder and never worry about temp stability. Lean towards popular powders and powders you can use in multiple calibers. For example, I use IMR 8208 XBR in 17Rem, several 223s, 22-250, 6DTI, 243, 308, etc.

Pick a primer, it's not terribly important for non-benchrest. CCI is my go-to primer, hard to go wrong.

Develop a load using one bullet, one powder, and one primer. I have been successful in finding accurate loads with every caliber and bullet I've tried, meaning easily sub-MOA and often regular 1/2" 5-shot groups with low SD (low teens) and ES. .

Adding multiples of components to test all at once just isn't necessary most of the time except on the extreme ends: either your chosen combo just won't shoot for some reason or you're seeking a high level of benchrest/long range consistency.

Once you've found a good load, make it again and test it. If you can repeat your recipe and results, you're doing it right.

I think making smart/informed bullet/powder choices is the most important variable.
 
Just one little word of advice, with any caliber that you intend to shoot in an AR platform you'll want to either use small base RCBS dies, or hornady, forster, redding, etc... just make sure that if you stick with the RCBS dies that they are "small base" dies. I've learned this the hard way...
 
+1 on redding dies, personaly a funnel is a funnel, get a headspace comparator set much more useful than bullet comparator gauges IMO. Ive been fine with calipers to the .005 and all my rifles (that I've kept)shoot .5 or better off a bench, but Im a hunter not a shooter.

Know where your lands are, don't buy 3.99 primers instead of 5.99 primers and go shoot.

Pick one rifle to chase groups with and be happy with all the others shooting whatever it is your capable enough to gain an advantage from a hunting scenario or you'll be a barrel makers best friend.
 
I want to load the most accurate ammunition possible. I have 2 rifles (both Rem LTR’s in 223 and 308 with Swarovski scopes) that with factory ammunition will shoot a raged hole. I want to get into reloading for the enjoyment, satisfaction and to have the ability to shoot bullets and cartridges that are not in factory form.

I want to buy quality tools, however, I do not want to buy “wants” over “needs” at least in the beginning. It is an expensive hobby to go full tilt on from the get go.

I am torn on a case trimmer (will either start with Lee inexpensive cutter with stem or go with a L.E Wilson), and I’m not sure on a tumbler or if I’m gonna clean my brass with steel wool and a rag to start. I’ll also probably prime with the Rick Chucker to start as well.

I’m not concerned about speed as I’m only shooting bolt guns for hunting and practice. I do however want safe and accurate results. I would like to get all of my rifles to shoot the smallest groups possible, but I won’t be chasing .1’s at the time of hundreds or thousands of dollars difference. At least not right away. LOL

Thank you all!
Steve
 
Originally Posted By: LittleAndyJust one little word of advice, with any caliber that you intend to shoot in an AR platform you'll want to either use small base RCBS dies, or hornady, forster, redding, etc... just make sure that if you stick with the RCBS dies that they are "small base" dies. I've learned this the hard way...

Not necessary. I have 11 AR's in 7 different calibers and have never used a small base die.
 
As others have mentioned, you may want to look at a different brand die. I used RCBS for a long time and started having issues with them. I have gone to almost all Hornady dies now. Plus, you get free bullets for buying them. I have had better consistency with the Hornady than I did with the RCBS.

Keep it basic until you feel more comfortable with loading. Seen a lot of advice given here that is way more than a beginner needs to deal with.
 
Originally Posted By: BangFlop
I want to buy quality tools, however, I do not want to buy “wants” over “needs” at least in the beginning. ...

I am torn on a case trimmer (will either start with Lee inexpensive cutter with stem or go with a L.E Wilson), and I’m not sure on a tumbler

A tumbler is definitely a want, not a need. I went without one for 20 years. Finally got one 20 years ago. Used it twice, I think. Still have it, use it once in a great while for non-gun related stuff.

Trimmer, I don't use one of those either
laugh.gif
. But that's not something a beginner should be contemplating, I suppose. The Wilson is the nicest of that type, IMO. But, as far as results go, meh, a trimmer is a trimmer. Pride of ownership is the only reason to go whole hog on that type of trimmer. For guys addicted to trimming, a fancy power unit is the way to go. A possible consideration, would be to go with a much less expensive trimmer and put the savings towards a hand primer or a concentricity gauge.

There are a few items on your list that I personally, don't and wouldn't ever use, so they'd be wants not needs "for me". While a GOOD hand primer (like a Sinclair), is a need, not a want, for me. But, it all depends on what style and system of hand loading you find yourself going towards.

Agree with the idea of skipping the plain jane RCBS dies in favor of something nicer. Redding or Forster. Or, heck, kind of late for this, but if hand crafted premium accuracy is the goal, Wilson hand dies are awesome too. If you pay attention to setup, the plain RCBS can produce concentricity on par with the others though. Just not as automatically.

- DAA
 
DAA,

What do you feel I don't need Sir? Also, you do not trim at all?

I'll check out a hand primer. I do want one, just trying to get quality tools that I need up front. Once I get that initial expense out of the pay (gets pretty expensive), then I will add wants if I think it will make my end result better. Not looking for fast or high volume.

Thanks so much!
Steve
 
I trim only as needed, have Lee cartridge specific e-zee trim and a RCBS. Trim my AR brass with the Lee everything else with the green machine. The Lee trims to minimum no adjustments. I don't trim brass for bolt guns, or custom chambered rifles with it and those are cut .005 short of the chamber cut #. I have no small base die, haven't needed it even shooting 20 practical formed from once fired LC brass. Some of the 20p brass I have sized and loaded 3 times. I have been using plain chap stick(experiment) for case lube, haven't had any issues. The chap stick rinces off case with hot water and a couple drops of Dawn. Had a SS tumbler for 2 years haven't open the box, still using a little simple green,vinegar and hot water. Swoosh a couple minutes(after decapping) rinse with hot water,dry,lube,size.
 
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