New barrel won't shoot.

I had a VSSF 223 that shot little groups and shot it out and replaced the factory barrel with a Hart barrel it never would shoot tried everything. Then checked the bolt face clearance and the bolt was hitting the barrel cut it 10 thousands deeper and back to a one hole rifle. Never know.
MB
 
Originally Posted By: MasterBlasterI had a VSSF 223 that shot little groups and shot it out and replaced the factory barrel with a Hart barrel it never would shoot tried everything. Then checked the bolt face clearance and the bolt was hitting the barrel cut it 10 thousands deeper and back to a one hole rifle. Never know.
MB


Interesting....I had a Bartlien that I couldn't get to shoot. After 400 rounds I gave up and sold it to a friend of mine, knowing my problems, he still bought it. He had it head spaced to his action and he says it shoots fine. Got me wondering now. Guess I'll never know.
 
Orkan, I'm In the NE part of the state. East of Watertown.
2 1/2 hours from Miller.

I had some Sierra 55 grain SBT loaded up for a Tikka rifle. I sat down at the bench with the Winchester. First 3 shot group, .335. Second 3 shot group, .439. Third group, 1.1. This is very typical. Just when I think I'm on to a good load it frustrates me.
I should just drive out to Miller and let TS check it out.
 
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How long did you wait between groups? Your barrel is pretty thin if I looked it up correctly, around .630ish. The 22-250 heats a barrel up pretty quick. Some will say its not barrel heat but I don't totally agree with that.

If you don't mind the drive, take it to TS for them to check it out. It will be a chance to see their shop if nothing else.
 
Originally Posted By: orkanOriginally Posted By: spotstalkshoota very good smith/machinist once told me "if the chamber is concentric to the bore the rifle will shoot, you just need to find the load".

There is such a thing as a bad barrel blank.

As for a smith, TS Customs in south dakota is the only name he needs to know.

They're not the only game in town...
 
caineshooter, I have 2 Model 70...a 243 and a 308, and both of them will cloverleaf with about any handload I throw in it and after the 3rd shot it will open up a small amount. I went thru a lot of things to correct it but an ole timer told me after that third shot let it cool for several minutes and it will cloverleaf that 4,5.6 shot...sure enough he was right. Something so simple....think about it...why will it shoot 3 shots into a tight group everytime and all of a sudden it will not. Try this go to the range and shoot those 3 shots into a 5/8 group...pack up and go home. Come back tomorrow and try it again...those 3 shots. Bet you it will shoot that 5/8 group again with those 3 shots. My 2 Model 70's did just that. In fact, I have several guns that do exactly that and they are all lightweigh barrels and does not take much to heat them up.
 
Sounds like a bedding problem. I've had the same thing happen with flimsy stocks that's why I replace them or buy a different rifle with a better stock.

I've also had problems with the .22-250 not shooting good groups on a few rifles. Nothing I tried worked till someone told me to try the OAL from the loading manual. Darned if that didn't cure the problem.
 
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As a 220 Swift shooter for almost 60 years.
Your twist rate 1-14, It is like my three Swift rifles.
The largest pills I have ever loaded was 45 grains.
You have the need for speed, 40 Grainers work well.
Burn some powder.
 
Originally Posted By: canineshooterI have a Winchester model 70, 22-250 I bought new in the around 1995. I shot the barrel out about 5 years ago. I had a gunsmith put a new Krieger #3 conture barrel, 14 twist on. The rifle has never shot as well as it did with the factory barrel. The best handload I came up with using H4895 and Nosler 55 grain BT will put the first 3 shots around 5/8 group, then the next 2 shots will throw it out to 1" to 1 1/2.
I have tried different scopes to remove that variable. It currently has a Nikon 4x14 buck master that I trust.
I have the factory Tupperware stock that I pillar and glass bedded. I also have a Hogue stock I glass bedded. Doesn't make any difference what stock is used. I know neither stock is that great of quality. The way it throws out the last 2 shots I think it's a bedding issue.
The gunsmith has retired and sold all his equipment. My next thought is to buy a better quality stock and pillar bed it. I'm no pro but I've bedded a lot of stocks myself I'm confident in doing it right. Anyone have any ideas?

There's a point an time where you have to sit back and acknowledge the point of diminishing returns.

I've had a few guns in my life not shoot, most of which I spent money on the build, even more money and time into trying to get them to shoot.

Cleaning barrels, different bullets, neck tension, seating depth, brass, primers, powder charges, bedding, taking the barreled action out of the stock and trying a chassis, a few different optics, and A LOT of time, too much time.

I would have been better off rebarreling. Sometimes, it just has to be reworked.
 
Do you know what the lands were cut to SAMMI or a custom throat cut? How far off them are you? Hand loading can be fun and rewarding but frustrating at times
 
What do you hunt with this rifle?

If it is high volume varmint, you have a problem. But if this a predator rifle then not so much.

Three44s
 
Originally Posted By: spotstalkshoot I want a cold bore shot going into the same sub moa group with no point of impact shift OVER SEVERAL RANGE VISITS using the same target. NOT many barrels will do that if you are cleaning between range checks.

I think Carlos Hathcock recommended that. Shoot only one shot at a target each day for 10 days. They that is your true hunting group size. Of course he was hunting men in a war.
 
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