New barrel won't shoot.

C

canineshooter

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I have a Winchester model 70, 22-250 I bought new in the around 1995. I shot the barrel out about 5 years ago. I had a gunsmith put a new Krieger #3 conture barrel, 14 twist on. The rifle has never shot as well as it did with the factory barrel. The best handload I came up with using H4895 and Nosler 55 grain BT will put the first 3 shots around 5/8 group, then the next 2 shots will throw it out to 1" to 1 1/2.
I have tried different scopes to remove that variable. It currently has a Nikon 4x14 buck master that I trust.
I have the factory Tupperware stock that I pillar and glass bedded. I also have a Hogue stock I glass bedded. Doesn't make any difference what stock is used. I know neither stock is that great of quality. The way it throws out the last 2 shots I think it's a bedding issue.
The gunsmith has retired and sold all his equipment. My next thought is to buy a better quality stock and pillar bed it. I'm no pro but I've bedded a lot of stocks myself I'm confident in doing it right. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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Is your powder charge weight "tuned" for the least vertical dispersion? And have you determined the best bullet seating depth? For me, I solve those two at the start of a new barrel. If the baseline accuracy I am expecting(need) are not met, I run a different powder(and charge test) since I already have the best seating depth. For a hunting rifle(sporter weight barrel) I want a cold bore shot going into the same sub moa group with no point of impact shift OVER SEVERAL RANGE VISITS using the same target. NOT many barrels will do that if you are cleaning between range checks.
 
My 22-250AI doesn't care for 55 grain pills that much either. Dropped down to a 52 grain Berger and it shoots bug holes. Might try lighter bullets and different powder. My buddy thought his 22-250 was due for a barrel until yesterday. He gave it a good cleaning and bought some Winchester 45 grain white box ammo, the 40 round box, and it was shooting bugholes again. His is a 14 twist Hart barrel.
 
If it's a three screw action make sure the center screw isn't tight. Also make sure the magazine isn't tight. The mag needs to be able to move around or it can cause groups to open up.
 
I think you're right thinking it may be a bedding problem. As the barrel warms up the group opens up from a half inch 3-shot group to 1.5 inches with only two additional rounds - unlikely a bullet or powder problem. That's a big barrel harmonic change in my opinion. One would assume the gunsmith trued up your action, so the barrel correctly mates up to the receiver.

A 1:14 twist in a 22 centerfire usually prefers 52/53 grain bullets making the 55 grain marginal in some cases. Maybe try the 52 grain Berger prior to rebedding just in case it's a fluke and the bedding isn't your problem. I prefer WW760 powder with the 52 grain in my 22 Centerfire. Good Luck.
 
I would also suspect a bedding problem, or possibly the barrel
touching forearm after heating up. Do groups always open up
after the third shot?

I have a rebarralled Rem788 (to 1:12) and a Sav VLP (1:12). Both
are more accurate with 50gr pills than 55gr. Haven't tried any
bullets of the in between weights.
 
You changed the scope but did you change/tighten the rings and bases at all? Start with the simple stuff before buying new stocks and spending money on more gunsmithing
 
I have tried 50 grain Vmax, 52 grain Siera BTHP. The Siera's have always shot great except this rifle.
I have tried Winchester 760 powder. Bases and rings are tight. I should take a closer look at the magazine box. Make sure it's not creating any stress.
I'm just bummed I spent over $600. for a barrel and labor. I can grab my factory Tikka and shoot consistently tight groups.
 
I would consider 1 of the $400.00 range chassis that may be available for a win 70 somebody has something. The MDT oryx no bedding required I had same problem you are having.You don't need a real expensive chassis the traditional looking rifle type will do you if you don't want heavy rifle.Check out some of them.Every rifle I restocked with a chassis set up ended up being the cats MEO! no bedding required.
 
Another stock option is a B&C or H-S Precision if you don't like chassis systems. Both have aluminum bedding blocks in the stock.Some people skim bed them, some don't.
 
I have a bunch of HS Prec stocks on semi custom Rem 700 builds and IMO they're a great stock for the money. But, even though these types of stocks have the AL bedding block in them, they all should be skim bed because they definitely do not match up perfectly to the underside of the receiver.
 
I also played with bullet seating depth. I started .020 from the lands and moved .005 increments closer. The groups do get better when I do this but it's still inconsistent.
 
canineshooter if the factory barrel and stock shot very well, I doubt a better barrel would need a different stock. Even very good barrels may require some systematic load development, a very good smith/machinist once told me "if the chamber is concentric to the bore the rifle will shoot, you just need to find the load". Have the crown inspected/re crowned(retest with your best load) if needed or scrap the barrel and start over, either way you will have to find a gunsmith you trust since yours is no longer available.
 
Originally Posted By: spotstalkshoota very good smith/machinist once told me "if the chamber is concentric to the bore the rifle will shoot, you just need to find the load".

There is such a thing as a bad barrel blank.
 
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Originally Posted By: canineshooterI have a Winchester model 70, 22-250 I bought new in the around 1995. I shot the barrel out about 5 years ago. I had a gunsmith put a new Krieger #3 conture barrel, 14 twist on. The rifle has never shot as well as it did with the factory barrel. The best handload I came up with using H4895 and Nosler 55 grain BT will put the first 3 shots around 5/8 group, then the next 2 shots will throw it out to 1" to 1 1/2.
I have tried different scopes to remove that variable. It currently has a Nikon 4x14 buck master that I trust.
I have the factory Tupperware stock that I pillar and glass bedded. I also have a Hogue stock I glass bedded. Doesn't make any difference what stock is used. I know neither stock is that great of quality. The way it throws out the last 2 shots I think it's a bedding issue.
The gunsmith has retired and sold all his equipment. My next thought is to buy a better quality stock and pillar bed it. I'm no pro but I've bedded a lot of stocks myself I'm confident in doing it right. Anyone have any ideas?

If the barrel isn't broke in yet that could be the problem. But it sounds like its time to try a different bullet. I always like the 52 gr bullets as well. My 223 also shoots the 45 gr sierra varminter really well, sizzler to! Before mounting the scope, did you lap your rings? I have seen that mounting scopes in different un-lapped rings puts a different stress/bend on the tube & it can cause problems. Eventually, if the scope is swapped around enough it will give up the ghost.
 
Try some lighter bullets and some Varget powder, see what happens. Give it a chance to cool after three shots. Then shoot again.
 
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I've put 5 Kriegers on Rem actions in the last 15 years. 4 were 224 cal 14 twist. One was a 6BR. All of em shot about an inch or less with any 50/55 grain I threw at it. All of em can do bug holes. Never a flyer, always a uniform group. My $.02 you have a bedding problem
 
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