Pulsar firmware update

J

JB-WI

Member
Has anyone installed the new firmware for the Trail or Helion?

I updated my Trail XQ38 and it is grainy now. I've played around with the bright and contrast settings and can't get it to look as good as it was before the update. Has anyone else experienced this with the new firmware?
 
Funny you posted this...I too have an XQ38 and after the firmware update the image does not seem to be as clear as it used to be either. I thought I read that the firmware also did an image "enhancement". I think I mentioned this to Kirsch in a post to him...was wondering if a person could "undo" the update and I think he indicated that he didn't think you could un-install it. If you figure anything out on it, please let me know, because I don't think it is anywhere near what it used to be.

Gene
 
Originally Posted By: G AndersonFunny you posted this...I too have an XQ38 and after the firmware update the image does not seem to be as clear as it used to be either. I thought I read that the firmware also did an image "enhancement". I think I mentioned this to Kirsch in a post to him...was wondering if a person could "undo" the update and I think he indicated that he didn't think you could un-install it. If you figure anything out on it, please let me know, because I don't think it is anywhere near what it used to be. Gene I don't know of a way to turn (roll) back an update. I believe you would need Pulsar to do this. A list of the update changes that apply to different Pulsar devices can be found here. It does list a contrast improvement on ID mode for the Trail XQ. I also saw this on another Pulsar post about the update:

Increase of temperature sensitivity in “Identification mode”
In units with XQ letter index firmware update increases temperature sensitivity in “Identification mode”. The feature provides better detection and identification of objects in conditions of low temperature differences (e.g. fog, precipitation, hot weather).

If you are having a hard time with getting a typical image quality or clarity, and humidity, etc isn't the issue, try the following: I have no idea why the following seems to work for people but it has for me as well. Supposedly the 3 different viewing (rock, forest, ID) modes simply make changes to Contrast and Brightness settings. However, on more than one occasion, I couldn't get my Helion image to look correct. I then reset the scope back to factory defaults, and switched the mode back to ID mode from Forest or whatever the default was, and then tweaked my contrast and brightness to where I normally have it set to and it worked. If you do this, before you reset the device, write down your X,Y coordinates or you may have to sight your gun in again.

I updated the Helion with the last update and didn't even check the image. However, one of the main things they changed was how their devices connect via Wifi. I am assuming this is due to the issues they had holding a connection to Apple devices. After completing the update, I launched StreamVision and it held a connection to my iPhone for an hour. I can't remember if it ever was able to do that. I purchased a cheap Amazon Fire tablet in the past as I had given up on StreamVision/iPhone integration. In my limited testing, the connection to my Apple device was more stable.

After reading this thread, I went to the Facebook site known as the Pulsar Night Vision and Thermal Hunting Group. This group has around 10K Pulsar users. Typically, if there is a major issue with an update, lots of people start to comment on this site and no new threads at this time. If I hear anything different, I will make sure to respond back to this thread.
 
Thanks Kirsch, I might get brave and set my scope back to default and then see what happens. I assume when you set it back to factory default it will still maintain the firmware updates? It will be interesting to see if it works or not. Thanks

Gene
 
There is no way to revert back to the previous firmware...here is a response from Sellmark I received today.

"Unfortunately, there is no way to go back to the previous firmware.  As far as the graininess I recommend starting both the contrast and brightness on the 10 setting and see if that fixes the graininess issue."

Honestly, I wish I wouldn't have updated the firmware. WI-FI was never an issue with me.
 
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Originally Posted By: G AndersonThanks Kirsch, I might get brave and set my scope back to default and then see what happens. I assume when you set it back to factory default it will still maintain the firmware updates? It will be interesting to see if it works or not. Thanks

Gene Yes, it will still maintain the current firmware update if you go back to Factory Settings. The procedure I described has helped lots of folks, so it is worth a try. Whenever I do a firmware update to a Pulsar scope, I always write down my X,Y for each profile I have set up or when I reset to Factory Defaults. Let me know if it clears it up. You will have to tweak your brightness and contrast again, but let me know if it seems to help out. If that doesn't, maybe try one of the other options (Rock, or Forest) as it only mentions a change to the ID mode. This again leads me to believe, there is more to those settings than it simply changes the default contrast and brightness values.
 
Originally Posted By: KirschOriginally Posted By: G AndersonThanks Kirsch, I might get brave and set my scope back to default and then see what happens. I assume when you set it back to factory default it will still maintain the firmware updates? It will be interesting to see if it works or not. Thanks

Gene Yes, it will still maintain the current firmware update if you go back to Factory Settings. The procedure I described has helped lots of folks, so it is worth a try. Whenever I do a firmware update to a Pulsar scope, I always write down my X,Y for each profile I have set up or when I reset to Factory Defaults. Let me know if it clears it up. You will have to tweak your brightness and contrast again, but let me know if it seems to help out. If that doesn't, maybe try one of the other options (Rock, or Forest) as it only mentions a change to the ID mode. This again leads me to believe, there is more to those settings than it simply changes the default contrast and brightness values.
I will give it a try over the weekend and see what happens. Will let you know. Thanks

Gene
 
Decided this evening to go ahead and put the scope back to default settings. Saved my different zeroing coordinates, but they did not change. The yards went back to meters, so had to reset that. The Mode went back to the forest/trees...put it back on ID. Image quality went back to what I remember it used to be...graininess was gone, looked so much better! Kirsch, I think what you recommended brought the image back to how it used to be. Thanks for the tip on this...really appreciate it.

Gene
 
Originally Posted By: G AndersonDecided this evening to go ahead and put the scope back to default settings. Saved my different zeroing coordinates, but they did not change. The yards went back to meters, so had to reset that. The Mode went back to the forest/trees...put it back on ID. Image quality went back to what I remember it used to be...graininess was gone, looked so much better! Kirsch, I think what you recommended brought the image back to how it used to be. Thanks for the tip on this...really appreciate it.

Gene Happy to hear it worked.
 
Originally Posted By: G AndersonOriginally Posted By: JB-WII will default mine and try it out tonight.

JB, how did you come out? Did it work to clear your scope up any?

I defaulted it but didn't get to try it as much as I would have liked to because it was pouring rain last night. Forest mode seemed to be best last night. The ID mode still wasn't as good as it used to be. I plan on trying it out tomorrow night when the weather will be better.
 
Originally Posted By: JB-WIOriginally Posted By: G AndersonOriginally Posted By: JB-WII will default mine and try it out tonight.

JB, how did you come out? Did it work to clear your scope up any?

I defaulted it but didn't get to try it as much as I would have liked to because it was pouring rain last night. Forest mode seemed to be best last night. The ID mode still wasn't as good as it used to be. I plan on trying it out tomorrow night when the weather will be better.

OK, I seem to have the best resolution on ID mode on both my scanner and scope. When you get a good chance to try it out, be sure to let us know how it does. Our night hunting here has been done since mid March, so all I was able to do was step outside after dark and look at deer about 300yds away and some coons and rabbits about 100yds away. It has been humid here but I could still tell that the image was a lot better and more of how I remember it to be before I did the firmware update.
 
Originally Posted By: G AndersonOriginally Posted By: JB-WIOriginally Posted By: G AndersonOriginally Posted By: JB-WII will default mine and try it out tonight.

JB, how did you come out? Did it work to clear your scope up any?

I defaulted it but didn't get to try it as much as I would have liked to because it was pouring rain last night. Forest mode seemed to be best last night. The ID mode still wasn't as good as it used to be. I plan on trying it out tomorrow night when the weather will be better.

OK, I seem to have the best resolution on ID mode on both my scanner and scope. When you get a good chance to try it out, be sure to let us know how it does. Our night hunting here has been done since mid March, so all I was able to do was step outside after dark and look at deer about 300yds away and some coons and rabbits about 100yds away. It has been humid here but I could still tell that the image was a lot better and more of how I remember it to be before I did the firmware update.

Gene, when you get a chance check your brightness and contrast settings on your scope. I went out this morn at 4am to play around with the settings. Before the FW update, I think I was at 2-3 on the brightness and in the 8 range with contrast while in ID mode. This morn I had the best image with brightness at 2 and contrast at 3 in ID mode...if I remember correctly. The image seems to degrade faster in ID mode than in forest mode. I will take it out again tonight and try it.
 
I will admit after reading these posts I was second guessing the new firmware upgrade, but I went for it anyway.

Wow! I dont know if the weather is perfect tonight for thermal (85 degrees w/50% humidity) but my Helion XP38 looks really good.

I like the "up" button changing the id, forest and rock settings too. It's quick and simple to scroll through those setting to get the best image.

Now I need to record a bit and upload it to youtube and see if the video looks better as well.

Overall very pleased
 
Lots of comments similar to yours on an increase to viewing quality. I did record a video tonight and it seemed much closer to the quality of the video through the Helion. It still isn't as good, but it does seem better. I do like the ability to switch quickly through the 3 viewing settings as well, but I do miss the ability to use the Up button to activate wireless. Oh well, not too hard to open up the Menu and activate.
 
Mine seemed to update fine didn’t need to do the reset except now the app keeps telling me I need to update. I checked the version on the scope and I says 3.2.0 xp38 which is changed from the original 3.0.23 If I try to redo the update but he app shows the progress bar then flashes success and the scope displays mass memory SD. Originally it did the update bar and powered down like the directions said. Looks like a call tomorrow to Pulsar.
 
I would uninstall the StreamVision app, restart the mobile device, and then reinstall the app again, and see if that fixes it.
 
Originally Posted By: KirschLots of comments similar to yours on an increase to viewing quality. I did record a video tonight and it seemed much closer to the quality of the video through the Helion. It still isn't as good, but it does seem better. I do like the ability to switch quickly through the 3 viewing settings as well, but I do miss the ability to use the Up button to activate wireless. Oh well, not too hard to open up the Menu and activate.

I updated my XP50 and I can't tell for sure if the image is better but it is definitly not worse. I figured out the "up" button change to rock forest ID mode and the now long press to get white hot/black hot.
I'm ok with those changes, but now the only way to turn on wifi is to go into the main menu each time I turn on the scope? I can't say I'm thrilled with that as I use wifi on every stand.
But, if it cures the video malfunctions maybe I can live with it. I never really use the remote, does it offer a wifi on shortcut?
 
Greyhunter,

I can't seem to find my remote to test, but my guess is no. The buttons on the remote mirror the buttons on the thermal, so it would really surprise me if it did. I liked a quick way to turn on wifi as well. Send a comment to pulsar or call their Customer Service and let them know, you liked it the other way better.
 
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