Does Bedding an AR barrel Help?
- Thread starter eja
- Start date
arlaunch
Active member
The fanatical match shooters user Locktite. Those same folks shoot long range. I don't use it myself and have barrels that shoot amazing.
I don't see any reason to be against doing it. Just make sure that your barrel nuts lined up and torque is acceptable. I have had to go over 80ft lbs before. Backing off and trying again will normally result in getting it to line up with less torque.
Once all is good add the Locktite and assemble quickly. I have read a blow torch will heat it to a satisfactory temperature when you want to remove it.
I am guessing you know all this stuff.
For me though, I don't want the hassle building one or taking one apart. I use anti seize instead.
Some even use the A1 flash hider screwed on snug, then Locktite also. It is thought that the muzzle device squeezing on barrels reduces accuracy.
My most accurate rifle has no threads. My 2nd most accurate rifle is an Hbar with threads and shoots suppressed 100% of the time.
I recommend setting the rifle up. Shoot it and break it in by doing the cleaning regime you like best. Develop a load that shoots best and see if you are satisfied.
Honestly... If you can float a good barrel you should get good accuracy. If you fine tune hand loads, or shoot a good factory ammo/bullet combo that your rifle likes you should get excellent accuracy.
Shooting sub MOA at 600 yards in all temps and wind conditions is a whole separate topic that has nothing to do with hunting bullets designed for .223 REM.
I don't see any reason to be against doing it. Just make sure that your barrel nuts lined up and torque is acceptable. I have had to go over 80ft lbs before. Backing off and trying again will normally result in getting it to line up with less torque.
Once all is good add the Locktite and assemble quickly. I have read a blow torch will heat it to a satisfactory temperature when you want to remove it.
I am guessing you know all this stuff.
For me though, I don't want the hassle building one or taking one apart. I use anti seize instead.
Some even use the A1 flash hider screwed on snug, then Locktite also. It is thought that the muzzle device squeezing on barrels reduces accuracy.
My most accurate rifle has no threads. My 2nd most accurate rifle is an Hbar with threads and shoots suppressed 100% of the time.
I recommend setting the rifle up. Shoot it and break it in by doing the cleaning regime you like best. Develop a load that shoots best and see if you are satisfied.
Honestly... If you can float a good barrel you should get good accuracy. If you fine tune hand loads, or shoot a good factory ammo/bullet combo that your rifle likes you should get excellent accuracy.
Shooting sub MOA at 600 yards in all temps and wind conditions is a whole separate topic that has nothing to do with hunting bullets designed for .223 REM.
Plant.One
Well-known member
i dont have any objection to barrel bedding, but the uppers i've assembled all had a pretty tight fit to begin with - so meh. torque em down and call it a day.
i do gently lap my receivers though so that the face is square and true as it can be for the barrel extension to get torqued against.
i do gently lap my receivers though so that the face is square and true as it can be for the barrel extension to get torqued against.
Bowhntr6pt
Well-known member
I believe it falls into the category of "while it might help, it certainly won't hurt".
Like posted above, I never bothered with it before but recently started tinkering with the idea. I have been cutting .001" and .002" strips of SS shim stock to take up any excess slop.
A strip cut to fit the barrel extension width wise and right up to the index pin makes for a solid press-fit assembly.
Like posted above, I never bothered with it before but recently started tinkering with the idea. I have been cutting .001" and .002" strips of SS shim stock to take up any excess slop.
A strip cut to fit the barrel extension width wise and right up to the index pin makes for a solid press-fit assembly.
steve garrett
Active member
As cheap as uppers are these days I wish they would would come fitted to the barrels. Freeze cool the barrels, heat the upper to 350 then press fit. That would make the upper disposable but so what it’s 30 bucks
I just put a new Proof Research barrel on my Seekins SP10, talked to both Proof and Seekins about this and they, both, told me to just install it dry so that's what I did.
I don't know about others, as this was my first AR barrel install, but it was pretty much a perfectly matched fit.
I don't know about others, as this was my first AR barrel install, but it was pretty much a perfectly matched fit.
steve garrett
Active member
I would like to try doing one with green loctite one of these days.
Originally Posted By: arlaunchI don't see any reason to be against doing it. Just make sure that your barrel nuts lined up and torque is acceptable. I have had to go over 80ft lbs before. Backing off and trying again will normally result in getting it to line up with less torque.
Once all is good add the Locktite and assemble quickly. I have read a blow torch will heat it to a satisfactory temperature when you want to remove it.
I am guessing you know all this stuff.
For me though, I don't want the hassle building one or taking one apart. I use anti seize instead.
I believe you are talking about putting locktite on the threads. That is not bedding the barrel on an AR. To bed it you put the locktite on the barrel extension then slide it into the upper.
Once all is good add the Locktite and assemble quickly. I have read a blow torch will heat it to a satisfactory temperature when you want to remove it.
I am guessing you know all this stuff.
For me though, I don't want the hassle building one or taking one apart. I use anti seize instead.
I believe you are talking about putting locktite on the threads. That is not bedding the barrel on an AR. To bed it you put the locktite on the barrel extension then slide it into the upper.
arlaunch
Active member
No, not talking about Locktite on the threads. I have never heard of that.
I was just saying to make sure the barrel nut/gas tube alignment is spot on before messing around with glue.
I just re-read that. The way i worded the anti seize on the threads is confusing...
Just saying that is all that i do.
I have read that many High Power shooters "bed the barrel"
All those fellas shoot way better than me.
I was just saying to make sure the barrel nut/gas tube alignment is spot on before messing around with glue.
I just re-read that. The way i worded the anti seize on the threads is confusing...
Just saying that is all that i do.
I have read that many High Power shooters "bed the barrel"
All those fellas shoot way better than me.
SlickerThanSnot
New member
Originally Posted By: willy1947
I can see that no one here knows how to in stall an AR barrel.
yeah. you are the only one here that knows how. you are the bestest.
I can see that no one here knows how to in stall an AR barrel.
yeah. you are the only one here that knows how. you are the bestest.
Originally Posted By: willy1947
I can see that no one here knows how to in stall an AR barrel.
So why don't you educate all of us on the correct way!! You seem to be an expert and have the most knowledge of everyone here. At least you make yourself sound that way in your posts. Or are you just to stir crap up??
I can see that no one here knows how to in stall an AR barrel.
So why don't you educate all of us on the correct way!! You seem to be an expert and have the most knowledge of everyone here. At least you make yourself sound that way in your posts. Or are you just to stir crap up??
varminter .223
Well-known member
I installed one with vibra-tite to use for bedding. Well the barrel didn't shoot all that great and to remove it I left the barrel nut partially on and had to drive it out with a wooden dowel after heating the upper. I got it out without damaging anyting but I am done bedding AR barrels.
I coat my Barrel extension with a moly lubricant. My theory is with lower friction after the harmonics on the shot it can settle in the same position as it started.
I coat my Barrel extension with a moly lubricant. My theory is with lower friction after the harmonics on the shot it can settle in the same position as it started.
Last edited:
Plant.One
Well-known member
Originally Posted By: Plant.OneOriginally Posted By: willy1947
I can see that no one here knows how to in stall an AR barrel.
im always willing to learn something new, so would you care to share the correct way to install an AR barrel please?
man i was really hoping to learn something new this weekend.
tick-tock, tick-tock.
I can see that no one here knows how to in stall an AR barrel.
im always willing to learn something new, so would you care to share the correct way to install an AR barrel please?
man i was really hoping to learn something new this weekend.
tick-tock, tick-tock.
Like some of you experienced guys, I have installed a bunch of AR barrels over the years. I found that my most accurate assemblies were with nothing added to the barrel extension. Loctite em if you want, but that would be the only thing I'd use, being dissimilar metals and all. Many of the factory installed uppers that we swapped barrels on, including a few of the big name brands, showed no sign of any kind of sealant or other magic juice.
I will add that on my latest 5.56 AR pistol upper, I did very lightly apply some Moly grease. The fit was very tight, it seemed to be something worth trying, and it made the extension press in without undue force. Some armorers tell me they use one particular product, but honestly I have forgotten the name. Someone surely will pipe up with the milspec on this, ending all speculation and discussion.