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Spike

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I have been reloading cartridges for more than 60 years and every time I look at a bottle of Hodgdon powder it lists a max charge with a bullet weight. how many of you go to the max charge to start out loading or do you start with a lesser charge? spike
 
seriously?

The idea of starting at max load has many things wrong with it.
1. every rifle is different
2. bullets of the same weight have different construction resulting in different pressures
3. seating depth, brass, primer and other component factors can affect pressures
4. max load could easily be a very inaccurate load
5. different lots of powder can vary in burn rate

I would bet the recommendation of starting low and working up has been stated on this and every other gun related forum many hundreds of thousands of times. That is reloading 101.
 
I admit it that I have. And never had a "awshit" from doing it either. Even the max loads are on the conservative side these days it seems.

In the old days as you know, they used real firearms to test their loads and tell you what the gun were using and the barrel length. For a long time now they just use pressure barrels and when they get to the SAAMI pressure max they stop. Some of the load data in the old books would be off the charts for some factory data. My 50 year old Speer book has some real screamers in it and lot of them I have tried and liked.

Fast forward a few years and now it's a different story. For example, the starting load for my .480 Ruger is now my max load. No desire for more punch than that!
 
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Yea, my #5 1961 Speer manual has some pretty hefty loads in it!
54gr. of IMR-4064 behind a 150gr. HSP has been a go to load for a bunch of us for years, extremely accurate and so far so good out of multiple guns.
 
I'm with RD here. I've never had a listed "max" load that was max, at least it the current manuals. Like others, I have some old manuals that list some better stuff in them. If it is something completely new to me, I would at least hit a load in between min and max to start.
 
I start in the middle. It seems to get me very close to right load for the rifle I'm using. Have done the ladder test many times. I never seem to end up using the max load. Been doing for 45 years. Rudy
 
I have had over pressure signs including heavy bolt lift, and expanded case heads with loads way UNDER listed max load. It has happened in more than one rifle.
 
Originally Posted By: 6724I have had over pressure signs including heavy bolt lift, and expanded case heads with loads way UNDER listed max load. It has happened in more than one rifle.

Absolutely!

Perfect example: 47 gr. 4895 behind a 150 or 168 gr. SMK has been the go to match (mild) load for NRA NM rifle shooters using 30-06 for many years. The 150 gr. closely duplicates the M2 Ball ammo issued for M1 Garand and same load behind the 168 does same for M72 Match ammo.

Lee's newest manual (2nd Ed.) lists start load for 150 gr. @ 46 gr. and max @ 51 gr.

I began to detect heavy bolt lift @ 47 gr. in three different Chandlin match barrels, 2 in pre-64 Mod. 70's and 1 in a 1903A3 so MY standard match load was 46 gr.

Regards,
hm
 
All guns are individuals-My go to 22-250 load is not to be listed here. I have used it in two different Rugers with no pressure signs at all. My buddy's Remington shows pressure at any thing above 2.5 grains under MAX. All with H380 powder. Never assume.
 
Most of the older manuals showed 34 gr of 3031 max in a 22-250. Ive never got past 32 grains in the rifles I've used it in. I usually start 2 to 3 grains below max and try different power, not different weights of one powder.
 
I get those little spiral bound caliber specific loading manuals that list the factory recommended loads for each major powder maker and for the major bullet makers. The max loads vary alot so I will often use the max max load for my “do not exceed”. I also start about 2 grains below max in the .223 and work up. I examine the brass for signs of pressure at each firing and stop shooting when I see either primer flattening, cratering, or extractor marks. I use Federal primers for their thinner cups that should show pressure signs at a lower pressure.

The old Speer manuals sure do show some stout loads.
 
I start by taking measurements for the distance to the lands. If it is a large distance and i know my brass trim length is correct, I feel comfortable starting in the mid range. Then i work up all the way until i see pressure, deteriorating group size or, excessive velocity over the chronograph. No matter what.

With that data, i establish what i think is a prudent max. Then i re-shoot what i thought was max/or the loads i liked the best at 200 or 300 yards for group size with the same reloaded again cases.

If that shoots good, and my components look good, i call it macaroni.

Everybody has a different opinion though. I have not been doing anything for 60 years. But i have nothing but respect for somebody who has. Especially if they have been paying attention.
 
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