stumped

ny hunter

Member
I have a Remington 7600 in 3006.It shoots factory ammo fine except if I cycle a shell out without firing it the tip of the bullet is smashed,also it doesn't cycle any reloads.I have to bang the slide to open it.The tips are smashed on the reloads as well.Anyone have any idea what's going on or what to look at?there's not a gunsmith worth a poop around here and my go to guy moved.

any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Imo, you are not resizing the brass completely. That's what is causing the reloads to stick. Try adjusting your die down further to set the shoulder back more

The damage to the tip is unrelated and just a taxing problem associated with it feeding from a magazine. I see the same problem on my ARs
 
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diagnosing these issues with as little info you have provided is pretty much a crap shoot. we dont have enough info to even being to make an educated guess.


how much reloading experience do you have? is this your first attempt or like your 9th caliber in 30 years type of thing?

which factory ammo is showing a smashed tip? i'm guessing its a SP type hunting bullet

what bullet are you trying to reload with?

what is your OAL

Do you have a headspace comparator for your calipers? and possibly a hornady OAL gauge with a bullet comparator to go with it to measure CBTO (Cartridge base to ogive)

what sizing dies? are you just neck sizing or full length sizing?

is the brass all once fired from your gun? or random range pickup?

are you crimping? if so are you using your seating die's roll crimp setting or using a seperate crimp die like the Lee Factory crimp die?

whats your reloading process you're following? please provide as much details as possible

for example:
tumble
Full Length size/decap
trim
chamfer
Deburr
primer
powder
bullet


i know some of these things may seem like trivial details, but sometimes without them getting to the bottom of things may take a while


also, i highly recommend posting some pics of your reloads along with factory ammo in the pic.
you might be surprised what some folks can just catch with the naked eye.

HTH
 
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Yea my 270 bolt rifle will bugger up the soft points
as they cycle out of the blind box magazine.

What Catdog says about setting the die down a bit more
should take care of the reloads

Sometimes a small base sizing die will help when loading
for pumps and auto loaders.
 
Originally Posted By: Plant.Onediagnosing these issues with as little info you have provided is pretty much a crap shoot. we dont have enough info to even being to make an educated guess.


how much reloading experience do you have? is this your first attempt or like your 9th caliber in 30 years type of thing?

which factory ammo is showing a smashed tip? i'm guessing its a SP type hunting bullet

what bullet are you trying to reload with?

what is your OAL

Do you have a headspace comparator for your calipers? and possibly a hornady OAL gauge with a bullet comparator to go with it to measure CBTO (Cartridge base to ogive)

what sizing dies? are you just neck sizing or full length sizing?

is the brass all once fired from your gun? or random range pickup?

are you crimping? if so are you using your seating die's roll crimp setting or using a seperate crimp die like the Lee Factory crimp die?

whats your reloading process you're following? please provide as much details as possible

for example:
tumble
Full Length size/decap
trim
chamfer
Deburr
primer
powder
bullet


i know some of these things may seem like trivial details, but sometimes without them getting to the bottom of things may take a while


also, i highly recommend posting some pics of your reloads along with factory ammo in the pic.
you might be surprised what some folks can just catch with the naked eye.

HTH


sorry here's somemore info
factory ammo remington core-lok 180gr. psp no problems cycling ,but tips where smashed.

reloads sierra 180gr. sbt loaded in Remington brass full length sized with rcbs dies o.a.l 3.300.first reload after factory. powder h414 54.0gr. cci primers.no crimp.these jammed and tips where smashed

reloads sierra 165gr.hpbt Remington brass third reload neck sized.These's where reloaded for my bolt gun I just tried them to see if the would cycle in the pump gun.They got jammed and the tips where smashed.They cycle and shoot fine in the bolt rifle.

I've been reloading for about 10yrs.but consider myself a novice.i do have the tools mentioned,but keep it simple as I was taught.i've reloaded for three rifle calibers and one pistol.i'm on this site and few others every night always reading but i'll say this some of the stuff you guys do with bullets and guns is amazing to say the lest.i'm a hunter if I can keep five in a 2" group at 100 yrds i'm a happy hunter.

i'm going to try resetting the sizing die and run a few shells through.
 
Originally Posted By: who me

Sometimes a small base sizing die will help when loading
for pumps and auto loaders.

Yup.That's what they're made for.
 
Throw your Neck Sizing Die in thr trash and buy a Full length resizing die....dont ever ever ever neck size anything. Its a waste of time and effort.
 
I have several Wilson neck dies with bushings. I probably have 6+ loading's on some of my custom rifles. Someday I will have to bump the shoulder back, maybe. No problems yet. But these are on bolt action rifles.
 
I was told and read neck size for single shot and bolt action and full length for lever and semi-auto.To be honest I never even knew there where pump rifles until two years ago.
i'm going to order a small base sizer die.Another thing I never knew existed

thanks if it wasn't for my learning curve i'd be a straight shooter!!!
 
Originally Posted By: ny hunterI was told and read neck size for single shot and bolt action and full length for lever and semi-auto.To be honest I never even knew there where pump rifles until two years ago.
i'm going to order a small base sizer die.Another thing I never knew existed

thanks if it wasn't for my learning curve i'd be a straight shooter!!!

before you plunk down your $$ on a new die... like you said in your earlier post, try re-setting your current die.

make sure that you're camming over at the end of the stroke.

before you even load the rounds up, once its resized - try a "plunk test" in your chamber with the freshly resized brass. it should fall in normally and drop right back out. if it doesnt then you need to get your calipers out and start doing some measuring.


once you have a successful plunk test with empty brass - take a bullet and seat it into a peice of brass with no primer or powder. repeat the plunk test. again should fall in and drop right back out.

once you're successful with that, try chambering said dummy round from the magazine.

if you succeed in all three of those steps, then progress to fully loaded ammo


take advantage of those tools you have, compare any failed brass/rounds to both a fired piece from that rifle and a unfired factory round. i would focus on a couple key points - neck diameter, body diameter behind the shoulder, body diameter at the case web, and the compare the shoulder bump you're getting.

30-06_cartridge.jpg



i load for a 7600 in 30-06. i'm just using FL sizing using a basic LEE die set and havent had a stitch of problems. ignore the marks on the tips of SP bullets... they happen, just accept that and worry about what the real issue is - the rounds not unchambering easily.


as i mentioned - PICS might help us in some unsuspecting way. if you can upload a couple that could possibly be a HUGE help.
 
The lead tips of the bullets are flattening against the magazine under recoil. The gun recoils back, the cartridges stay put, and the mag whacks them. Can't prevent it without going to plastic or bronze tipped, HP or all copper bullets. Some bullets like the Nosler partitions are especially soft hence, their "protected point" bullets that eliminate exposed lead.

I shoot specific brass in specific rifles. I have a 760 and a sporterized 1903 Springfield. The pump 760 gets commercial brass and the 1903 gets military brass. I never neck size for a pump or semiauto. The bolt guns have a lot more camming power to chamber a slightly oversize cartridge. As has been suggested, adjust your die so it maxes out the FL sizing. If that is not enough then get the SB sizer die. That is what I do: commercial RP or WW brass small base sized for the 760s and FL the military brass to where it just chambers easily for the Springfield.
 
Don't pooh pooh the neck dies, it ALL depends on the chamber.

Small base may or may not solve the OP's problem,my guess is it won't.

Was all this brass fired in this gun? If not it may respond to the small base die.

Speaking of cases sticking, one particular bullet has no issue while the other two have issues. I would bet that those two bullets are jammed into the throat.

Has the case length been looked at?
Jeff
 
thanks i'm going to start with the sizing die then move along.one of the tools I have but never use is a Wilson case gage? would this be the same as dropping the bullet into the chamber.I use to use it when I had my single shot but didn't feel it was necessary.I stopped using the o.a.l gage and comparator because I don't have a solid understanding of how the work.I'm going to go back and reread the directions again.


if I can figure out how to post pictures I will.this site is the most difficult to upload them to.
 
The Wilson case gauge should measure the case dimensions to allow you to know if it's been resized enough to fit the chamber properly
 
One other note if you have the time to watch a few videos 99.99% of these tools have very good instructions on YouTube if you just Google them
 
Originally Posted By: jsh
Was all this brass fired in this gun? If not it may respond to the small base die.

Speaking of cases sticking, one particular bullet has no issue while the other two have issues. I would bet that those two bullets are jammed into the throat.

Has the case length been looked at?
Jeff

the one bullet that didn't have an issue cycling was a factory load.I reloaded those and they wouldn't cycle.The other reload was for my bolt action gun.
 
Originally Posted By: Catdog1The Wilson case gauge should measure the case dimensions to allow you to know if it's been resized enough to fit the chamber properly

it seems - like many folks - that you have a misunderstanding of what exactly a Wilson gauge does.



a standard Wilson gauge is NOT a chamber/ammo gauge - its ONLY a headspace gauge and a trim length gauge - thats the ONLY two measurements you can discern from it....


brass can easily pass a Wilson gauge and still fail in many chambers - or even be entirely out of spec - due to a dimension not being measured by the wilson gauge - specifically it doest not measure any of the body diameter specs and is intentionally cut oversize in those areas.

please read the above two lines very carefully again before you go further.




if you want an AMMUNITION gauge, i suggest something like the Sheridan gauge. These are cut to SAAMI spec of "minimum chamber" for the caliber being used with the same style of reamer used to put a chamber in your barrel. If your ammo (or brass) will seat into a Sheridan Gauge and not chamber in your rifle - you have a chamber problem with your rifle.

there are other companys who make ammo gauges, but sheridan is the only one i'm aware of that has a slotted version to let you see where a possible fail point is to measure from.

this is equivalent to doing the chamber "plunk test" i was discussing above but with a minimum dimension chamber (in all respects, not just headspace) without the need to have your gun out.


if you're going to get a gauge like this i recomended the slotted version as you can usually use that to see where you need to measure.

http://www.sheridanengineering.com/index-2.htm

SG3006.jpg



a tool like this is a great yes/No indicator to know if the calipers or other tools of our hobby need to come out and be utilized to find out how bad of a problem we have.



FWIW - many guns - probably MOST guns - will chamber ammo that will "fail" in a Sheridan gauge. I know both of my 300 blk chambers are like that... that doesnt mean the chamber on your gun is necessarily bad, you're just above the minimum chamber spec that the Sheridan gauge is built to. All chambers have a min/max tolerance range that they will still be safe in.



here's a youtube video that shows exactly what i was discussing - you'll note how the damaged brass can actually "pass" a wilson gauge.

 
Originally Posted By: ny hunter

if I can figure out how to post pictures I will.this site is the most difficult to upload them to.



if you're still having problems, feel free to send me a pm. we can figure out some way to get them online and live for us to view - even if you have to email them to me so that i can post them for you.

If you've got them on a photo hosting site thats not friendly about 3rd party posting, i can help you work around that as well.
 
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