Consistently and accurately measuring groups more than well enough for personal record keeping and data analysis is very easily achievable with a simple vernier caliper. Even a Harbor Fright plastic one.
None of this matters. It really, really doesn't.
But I'll mention anyway...
A lot of talk about subtracting bullet diameter. This usually gives you a measurement smaller than the actual group size. On some paper, quite a bit smaller.
Target tag is made specifically to not stretch and cut a true hole. But it's expensive. Targets printed on it aren't cheap.
If, like me, you mostly use targets you printed yourself, on the cheapest paper Walmart had, or the cheapest preprinted targets you could find, the paper they are printed on is most likely going to stretch a bit as a bullet passes through it. I've seen some paper that stretched so much that a .22 made holes that looked like a .17. I think humidity might even have an effect.
But, so, anyway, the point... If the paper is stretching the holes will be smaller than bullet diameter. If the holes are smaller than bullet diameter and they probably are, subtracting a full bullet diameter from the outside edges will give you an incorrect group size that is smaller than actual C-T-C.
Two simple ways to avoid this error. If you have separate bullet holes, measure the bullet holes and subtract that from the outside edge measurement. I have seen some pretty extreme cases with some of the cheapazz copy paper I usually use. Like .22-250 holes that measure .180 and .17's that measure .14. Or, again if you have separate bullet holes, just measure from inside edge to outside edge of the widest shots. Up to you to decide what the "edge" is, but if you do it very much you'll get quite consistent with it.
For a bug hole without a lone bullet hole, find a lone bullet hole or make one. Measure it. Subtract from the outside edges of the bug hole.
- DAA