Bushing size 20-250

mbaysinger89

Active member
I plan on using Winchester 22-250 brass, a no turn neck. The current neck thickness is .0135. to me it makes since that .204+.027=.231. .231-.003 makes for a bushing size of .228 is my thinking correct? What do you use?
 
No need for 3 thou neck tension, that would be working the brass too much.

Also, is that neck thickness after being necked down? What is the chamber reamer specs?

Your bushing only needs to be 1 thou under your loaded neck diameter.

Lastly, if you are going through the trouble of a custom chambering, I would use quality brass. IE Lapua or Nosler
 
Originally Posted By: pahntr760No need for 3 thou neck tension, that would be working the brass too much.

Also, is that neck thickness after being necked down? What is the chamber reamer specs?

Your bushing only needs to be 1 thou under your loaded neck diameter.

Lastly, if you are going through the trouble of a custom chambering, I would use quality brass. IE Lapua or Nosler

All good info there.

I use necked down Lapua 22-250 brass for my 20-250 and a Redding 232 bushing gives me just a little over 1 thou neck tension.
 
Originally Posted By: DAA.0014 tension on mine. Tight neck, so no help on necked down thickness.

- DAA

Dave is a man of few words. There is an encyclopedia in these two short sentences....trust me....analyze every word!

What you need to educate yourself on, is what he did not say.
 
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Pahntr I need to figure out my brass before I figure out my reamer for sure. I know I really don't want to turn necks to lose brass in the field after 2 or 3 firings, also that's why I'm not.going with Lapua, also I have an endless supply of Winchester for $0.00. Im definitely open to any and all suggestions it's just going to take alot to get me to pay 50 cents a piece for brass that I lose easily and taking the time to turn necks unless otherwise just has to be.

So being said, if 1 thou neck tension is enough a .230 bushing should be around right? I don't mind buying 2 or 3, but I don't want to buy 5 or 6 for 1 cartridge.
 
The instock reamer lost at lri is .2360. that's where I'm planning on going anyways. That doesn't necessarily mean that's the reamer. I have no idea what the clearance between brass neck and chamber neck should be.
 
Originally Posted By: mbaysinger89Pahntr I need to figure out my brass before I figure out my reamer for sure. I know I really don't want to turn necks to lose brass in the field after 2 or 3 firings, also that's why I'm not.going with Lapua, also I have an endless supply of Winchester for $0.00. Im definitely open to any and all suggestions it's just going to take alot to get me to pay 50 cents a piece for brass that I lose easily and taking the time to turn necks unless otherwise just has to be.

So being said, if 1 thou neck tension is enough a .230 bushing should be around right? I don't mind buying 2 or 3, but I don't want to buy 5 or 6 for 1 cartridge.

If you are set on using Winchester brass, get a bunch of it and prep it entirely. Primer pockets uniform, deburr flash hole, anneal and trim. Annealing seems to be a big miss in W-W brass lately.



Originally Posted By: mbaysinger89The instock reamer lost at lri is .2360. that's where I'm planning on going anyways. That doesn't necessarily mean that's the reamer. I have no idea what the clearance between brass neck and chamber neck should be.

Call and talk with Chad, or Kallie...they know their stuff. As for their in-stock reamer, that is likely made for Lapua brass as it tends to have .0150" wall thickness.

.204+.030= .234. With .234" OD, that means the brass will only expand .002" when fired. Size down to .233" and you have only .003" total brass movement. That is pretty optimal.

At any rate...with your W-W brass at .135, a .230 bushing should be good. That gives you only .006" brass expansion...still not bad.
 
It's pretty tough to turn down free brass. Is .006 going to be splitting necks? Or is not neck turning going to take accuracy up to 1.5 moa instead of .5? At that point itd be worth the money for a custom reamer or time spent turning or just Lapua brass.

Thanks for the help.
 
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