Price check for barrel threading

NdIndy

New member
I'm going to have a local smith thread the barrel on my .223 so I can test out a brake or 2 and hopefully, someday, be able to mount a can up there. I find prairie dogs turn vicious if they can find where you're shooting from, so stealth is required.

I'm quoted $120 if I bring the full rifle in to get the job done. Sound reasonable?
 
Sounds about right for complete rifle, if the job is done properly concentric to the bore. If you remove the barrel, it's generally a little cheaper.
 
About what I figured. He quoted 165, but I'm not using his brake so he deducted. I need to get of my butt and get the myriad of tools a savage requires to swap barrels
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I should have a range report with the levang linear pretty soon.
 
think about the SHREWD brake and have it match the contor of barrel. I charge $175.00 for ss and add 80.00 for bluing
brake cost 65.00 so 115.00 for threding . Sound just about right @ 120.00 have him target crown it while it is in the lathe.
 
If you are going to run a supressor later on you will need a very good smith to do this and not just some gun plumber. Baffle strikes can get quite costly and while a little error will not hurt in the brake you will definately see it in the supressor. Make sure you have a great smith and that he knows your future intentions. If you have any doubt whatsoever in your smith find a new one, also make sure he has done this for supressors before. If you end up needing a smith who is second to none and uses nothing but the finest equipment and has the resume to prove he knows what he is doing you can PM me and I will let you know who he is. If you are comfortable with your smith then good. I am also hoping they at least open up and let us hunt predators and varmints with them.
 
I figured a can would just self clearance itself
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I was all set to start building one until I found out you can't even PD with them in WY, so I'm holding off a bit. One of our members here is trying to get it cleared up with the next legislative session. If it goes through I'm filling out some paperwork pretty quick.

I've talked to Dick at Frontier arms about threading the end but haven't talked to him about a suppressor someday. He has turned me down on some 1911 work so it seems like he knows his limits.

Still looking for a local 1911 guy to open up an ejection port and tune my ejector/extractor. Wildcat brass is expensive when the case mouth gets too buggered up to fix.
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Originally Posted By: LWILLIAMSIf you are going to run a supressor later on you will need a very good smith to do this and not just some gun plumber. Baffle strikes can get quite costly and while a little error will not hurt in the brake you will definately see it in the supressor. Make sure you have a great smith and that he knows your future intentions. If you have any doubt whatsoever in your smith find a new one, also make sure he has done this for supressors before.
GREAT INFO... i've got a smith who i recommend specifically threading the barrel for suppressor use... and he's charging about 75 w/ the thread protector.
 
Originally Posted By: NdIndy I need to get of my butt and get the myriad of tools a savage requires to swap barrels

A barrel wrench and wood blocks for your vice...Heck all I did was get the wrench and whap it with my hammer 4x...easy as making tea, you really dont need action vise or other stuff....unless you want of course. I thought you already had done swaps.
 
Jeez, that is high.

Am I understanding that you guys are paying this kind of price for just the threading for a brake?

I use the same brakes on 22 caliber and 6mm caliber centerfires, screw'em on and off.
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanJeez, that is high.

Am I understanding that you guys are paying this kind of price for just the threading for a brake?

I use the same brakes on 22 caliber and 6mm caliber centerfires, screw'em on and off.

I was thinking the same thing. My smith charges me about $30-35 to cut and re-crown a barrel. Well that is what he says he charges. The last two he did gratis because I'm his best customer. While it's set-up in the lathe I can't imagine it being too difficult to cut threads too.
 
Originally Posted By: 5spdOriginally Posted By: NdIndy I need to get of my butt and get the myriad of tools a savage requires to swap barrels

A barrel wrench and wood blocks for your vice...Heck all I did was get the wrench and whap it with my hammer 4x...easy as making tea, you really dont need action vise or other stuff....unless you want of course. I thought you already had done swaps.

Actually I've never had to. I tend to buy a new gun instead
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A friend of mine went the blocks and vice route, managed to distort his receiver. Not saying he did it correctly though. On he + side savage actually replaced it for him and I got an unfired 25-06 barrel out of the deal.

I know doing just the barrel will be less, but I'd still have to get a set of gauges to remount the barrel.

And right now I'm in the middle of a move, won't have tools or anything else set up for probably 2-3 months. I should have been done with the move 2 weeks ago, work has kept me too busy to do more than 30 minutes at a time so its going slowly.
 
let me break down the time it takes to do this.
5 min to pull action from stock and pull the trigger.
10 min to put witness mark on action and put in vise and pull barrel.
5 min to tape or protect the finish.
10 min to put in lathe and dial in 4 jaw on the muzzle end to .0005 or less now dial in the spider on the chamber end to .0005 or less.
10 min to turn the major diameter.
5 min to cut the thread relief
15 min to single point threds .
10 min to redo the crown because you destroyed it with your center this is just the way it works.
threading insert $6.00 (12.00 for new 2 sided)
profiling insert $6.00 (12.00 for new 2 side)
boring insert $ 6.00 (18.00 for new 3 side)
10 min to put barrel back on and check head space
5 min to polish alunium left barrel vise.
10 min to put trigger back on and back in stock
10 min to put scope on and level it if it has one .
5 min to reapply bluing.


110 min or 1.83 hr - $ 18.00 in inserts every one project start with new inserts you get single pointed threds not die cut so 115.00- 18.00=97.00/2 hours 48.50
now the lathe cost 5k chuck cost 1k and power with me and the lathe and power its worth 50/buck an hour.
 
$50 a barrel if it's already off at my guy. I have two barrels I'm getting done. $150 for the remove n replace of my existing with one of them. In contrast... Was at my local range & they wanted $150 a pop to cut threads, & $360 to r&r!!!
 
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