PTS233 Questions and Problems

L

LDhunter

New member
I have a PTS233 and after it's first outing I have a few issues and questions.

1. I'm having a lot of trouble with the menu button starting a video or taking a picture.

If I understand correctly I have to double click the menu (middle) button to get a video started or stopped. Mine usually either doesn't respond or it goes straight to menu. Single clicks don't take a picture very often either. Is this normal? Will it get better with use?

I was hoping to just buy a remote that works better but according to Tom they aren't available yet.

2. I want to connect it to my iPad so I can manage the pics and videos that I have finally managed to take but need a cable. Does someone with tech savvy beyond mine know if this will work and if so what cable I need?

3. Some of the other buttons don't seem to respond to a press and yes I've tried light, firm, and very firm presses and response is at best erratic.

Other than that I'm fairly happy with this unit but I'm not very good with focus but have noticed that the videos and pics I have managed to take are very clear, even clearer than what I see in the viewer so I guess I'm not very good at focusing.

That's all for now. Advice? Opinions?
 
I could not get an IPAD to work, but only on my laptop and office/home PC. Both running Windows.

As for the pic buttons, not had an issue as mine takes pics with each press. You may want to get that unit RMA'd. If you purchased from TNVC or NGI PM us here we can run interference with FLIR if needed.
 
I have experience with a number of different PTS units. Some had really nice feeling buttons that would respond every time to just about any amount of pressure. Others required the buttons to really be mashed down. Never had one that didn't respond at all though. If you've tried applying different pressures and none work for you, I'd agree with Vic. Contact FLIR and ask them to replace the button panel.
 
1: The buttons on my pts233 are stiff as well. I find that using the edge or very tip of my finger instead of the pad of my finger works the buttons better. The buttons do seem to down in a hole somewhat. If you have big hands and fingers I could see where it would be a problem pushing the buttons, especially double clicking them to start the recordings. Mine wasn't consistent either trying to push the buttons until I figured out it was my twinkie fingers causing the problem.

2: I don't know about an ipad but an android device with an OTG cable doesn't work to transfer or even power the scope. Only a computer works for me at the moment.

3: I would definitely call or email flir asap abou the button pad if all else fails.
 
The buttons do take a little getting used to since the 4 outside buttons respond to momentary pushes or hold down pushes. The menu button is activated by holding it down or you can take photos with it by momentarily pushing it. The double click on the menu button to activate the video is definitely tricky. You have to click it very fast and firm. Once you get used to it, they are pretty easy to use (for me at least). You can also just start the recording when you begin your set and let it go for up to 2.5 hours if you want. If you don't get anything, then just delete the file. Doing the firm double click when you have coyotes barreling in on you is a little unnerving! Per my contacts at FLIR/Armasight, the remotes are available and run $99. Kevin
 
Originally Posted By: HTRN57The buttons do take a little getting used to since the 4 outside buttons respond to momentary pushes or hold down pushes. The menu button is activated by holding it down or you can take photos with it by momentarily pushing it. The double click on the menu button to activate the video is definitely tricky. You have to click it very fast and firm. Once you get used to it, they are pretty easy to use (for me at least). You can also just start the recording when you begin your set and let it go for up to 2.5 hours if you want. If you don't get anything, then just delete the file. Doing the firm double click when you have coyotes barreling in on you is a little unnerving! Per my contacts at FLIR/Armasight, the remotes are available and run $99. Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks... Just sent you a PM regarding the remote.

Thanks,
$bob$
 
For those of you wanting a remote they're available from HTRN for $99 and I've ordered one and will let y'all know what I think of it.

It will NOT activate the video recorder but will do the auto thingy. In other words when you shoot you get a video of the last 20 seconds before and the following 20 seconds after you shoot.
 
Originally Posted By: LDhunterFor those of you wanting a remote they're available from HTRN for $99 and I've ordered one and will let y'all know what I think of it.

It will NOT activate the video recorder but will do the auto thingy. In other words when you shoot you get a video of the last 20 seconds before and the following 20 seconds after you shoot.

Htrn? I googled that and didn’t come up with much
 
OK... My problem with the menu button seems to have improved. Now I can usually get the unit to start or stop recording a video with quick yet firm presses with the edge of the tip of my index finger so I'm hoping that's resolved.

Another issue that I forget to address before is what I call click, click, flicker. That's the best way I can describe this weird symptom. The unit will make a click click sound almost like a wristwatch but faster and immediatly after that the viewing screen will flicker. This happens almost all the time the PTS233 is on but it doesn't show in the videos so go figure.

I'm going to guess that the click, click, flicker happens about every 10-20 seconds and I don't think it's at regular intervals.

I'm getting better at focusing my viewfinder but still spend a fair amount of time adjusting and readjusting.

Don't get me wrong gang... I'm very happy with the unit and the price point but I'm guarded about that keypad and it's reliability over the long haul.

My remote arrived here yesterday without any sort of documentation of any sort and although I should be able to figure out the keypresses, and hopefully they'll be similar to the imbedded keypad, I still can't even figure out how to get it apart to install a battery or mount it on a picatinny rail.

Before you laugh... It's not as easy as you might think... Never mind... Laugh if you want... You can't laugh at me anyway... Only with me...
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The edge or side of my finger works the best like I mentioned before. It could use some improvement though. The click click you describe sounds like auto NUC when the scope is first turned on. If there is a major difference in the temperature from the scope and outside air it will click and the display will pause a good bit until it settles down. Then after a few minutes after that it will show the NUC countdown then NUC. But mine doesn't NUC without the countdown indicator.
 
Click click is auto shutter doing a uniform field correction of the microbolometer thermoresistors array and perfectly normal.
 
A buddy and I are interested in the PTS233 or maybe the Pulsars. It is typically pretty cold when we hunt and wear very heavy gloves, like 200 gram thinsulate big. For you guys that have them, is it possible to run these units with heavy gloves on? It sounds like the video button would be tough but I could probably live with just the auto recording feature if everything could be run ok.
 
I'm in Florida but I've operated mine in 22F temperature and I can't imagine how tough it would be to use gloves and try to operate this or ANY NV or thermal scope I've seen or used.

If you modified your index fingertip in the glove where you could slip your trigger finger out and use that I think it would work. Some gloves are made that way these days for the trigger finger so you can shoot without having to completely remove your gloves. I don't see why that wouldn't work just fine and one finger can easily work all the controls for the PTS233.
 
I keep a hand warmer in my pocket. Any changes to be made slip glove off make changes warm hand slip glove back on. My gloves are off & on several times warming fingers, while calling.
 
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Many first time thermal buyers do not realize there is a distinct learning curve to using these devices. I’d say it takes a good six months of constant use at night in various temps, humidities, and outdoor conditions to get a handle on what you can and cannot do with them at night in the field as regards to ranges for ID and detection.
 
Originally Posted By: SkyPupMany first time thermal buyers do not realize there is a distinct learning curve to using these devices. I’d say it takes a good six months of constant use at night in various temps, humidities, and outdoor conditions to get a handle on what you can and cannot do with them at night in the field as regards to ranges for ID and detection.

I Agree. Years ago when i got the Flir RS32 i was walking miles and miles at night trying to get close enough to a hot spot to ID it. I finally figured out how to ID them without walking all night.
 
Originally Posted By: LDhunterI'm in Florida but I've operated mine in 22F temperature and I can't imagine how tough it would be to use gloves and try to operate this or ANY NV or thermal scope I've seen or used.

If you modified your index fingertip in the glove where you could slip your trigger finger out and use that I think it would work. Some gloves are made that way these days for the trigger finger so you can shoot without having to completely remove your gloves. I don't see why that wouldn't work just fine and one finger can easily work all the controls for the PTS233.

The last time I was out at night it was -18, but that is probably below the operating range for the unit anyway. 0 to +20 would be more common in January. Besides turning it on and video/picture functions, what functions of the scope need to be manipulated during the stand? Zoom?
Thanks, and sorry for derailing your thread. The button issue you raised got me to thinking about use with gloves.
 
Originally Posted By: SkyPupMany first time thermal buyers do not realize there is a distinct learning curve to using these devices. I’d say it takes a good six months of constant use at night in various temps, humidities, and outdoor conditions to get a handle on what you can and cannot do with them at night in the field as regards to ranges for ID and detection.

Whew! That's a relief... I thought I'd just lost all cognitive thinking. It's certainly a whole new world the first time you look through a thermal scope, scanner, camera and I'm still learning to "think thermal"... I just hope I can get up to speed in 6 months... LOL
 
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