Hey guys this is my first post, I am interested in building a tack driver AR to mow down some coyotes. I will be doing some general shooting and plinking with it as well but main reason to build is to have another option besides my Tikka T3X 6.5 creedmoor. I know I can get out of control spending some money to build one, but I also read that it is more cost efficient and you end up with a better quality gun. But lets be mindful of the spending so my wife doesnt throw me out of the house. I am interested in the 223 wylde and the 6.5 grendel. 223 would be cheaper for me since I am not set up to reload right now but I have read where guys are having issues with putting them down with the 223. This will be my first AR and obviously my first build so lets build a quality, reliable, and accurate gun from the ground up, thanks.
Lets build an accurate coyote killer
- Thread starter Bgolladay
- Start date
Now is the time; probably as cheap now as ever will be to put it together. You can find all kinds of lowers and parts kits on sale, so pick what you want there. Put the real money into a good trigger and barrel. I like trim fore ends, and you can find them in all sorts of variations, too. Joe Bob Outfitters is a sponsor here and will have all you need and will get your orders to you fast. You can spend hours on that site researching. In your circumstance, I would say go 223 and practice so you can consistently put your shots in the kill zone and you will be fine. I can only remember one coyote that I have lost with the 223 out of lots over the past 25 years. I can remember losing one with my Grendel out of about 30 in the last 5 years.
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Nonnieselman
New member
Ive got this barrel on one of my setups and love it.
http://ar15performance.com/inc/sdetail/38007/12239
It shoots everything from 53gr Vmax to 80gr Bergers. I use the 53s for coyotes and such, 73gr ELDM for 600 yards and the 80gr Bergers setup for 1000 Yard.
Ive shot it out to 1200 yards with the Bergers and had good results. Havent taken the 53s past 500 yards but they are still kicking. Used the 73 ELDM on deer out to 650 yards and actually worked really good, havent tried them on coyotes yet.
You can get a bolt from the same company and headspace will be matched.
Everything else would be how you perfer it as everyone is different.
This one has a PRS buttstock, Aero Precision Lower, Hiperfire 24 3G trigger, ARP Bolt, Tool Craft BCG, YHM 15" handguard, JP Adjustable Gas Block, 20" ARP barrel, Spikes Upper Reciever. Vortex 6.5-20x50 Scope on a ADM 20MOA QD Mount.
Really Simple build with a good barrel/bolt.
100 yard 10 rounds 73 ELDM H4895
http://ar15performance.com/inc/sdetail/38007/12239
It shoots everything from 53gr Vmax to 80gr Bergers. I use the 53s for coyotes and such, 73gr ELDM for 600 yards and the 80gr Bergers setup for 1000 Yard.
Ive shot it out to 1200 yards with the Bergers and had good results. Havent taken the 53s past 500 yards but they are still kicking. Used the 73 ELDM on deer out to 650 yards and actually worked really good, havent tried them on coyotes yet.
You can get a bolt from the same company and headspace will be matched.
Everything else would be how you perfer it as everyone is different.
This one has a PRS buttstock, Aero Precision Lower, Hiperfire 24 3G trigger, ARP Bolt, Tool Craft BCG, YHM 15" handguard, JP Adjustable Gas Block, 20" ARP barrel, Spikes Upper Reciever. Vortex 6.5-20x50 Scope on a ADM 20MOA QD Mount.
Really Simple build with a good barrel/bolt.
100 yard 10 rounds 73 ELDM H4895
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A 223 will put them down if shot in the right place. What’s your budget? I would pick to have RPG to build your upper there like $800 plus or minus a little depending on what you want he is a sponsor on here. Then I would pick a cheap lower, parts kit without a trigger, use what ever trigger you want have a velocity trigger in mine it’s a good single stage. If you were reloading it would open up a ton of options.
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Nonnieselman
New member
I wait for sales and buy pieces at a time. Then assemble it when most of them come in.
Im scared to add some of them up. But they are put together with every part i want.
Im scared to add some of them up. But they are put together with every part i want.
I would ballpark between 7-800$ to build something pretty much what I wanted with out going really high end on some parts. Could cut corners in some areas and get closer to 500$. For me the most $$ would be trigger and barrel, probably be around 350$ at best for the items combined for what I would buy. Fore end and stocks run the gamut $ wise, gas system and bolts/carrier groups as well.
varminter .223
Well-known member
Originally Posted By: pahntr760Step 1) Call Ritch Johnson.
Step 2) Recieve accurate, reliable coyote rifle
Step 3 if you don't listen to pahntr760, rethink and take his advice lol
Step 2) Recieve accurate, reliable coyote rifle
Step 3 if you don't listen to pahntr760, rethink and take his advice lol
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varminter .223
Well-known member
I prefer a stoner or bca sidecharge with a geissele trigger and a good barrel. My next will be a `10 twist 6x6.8 from Ritch.
Don't laugh but, if you're on a budget, Midway's AR Stoner 24" stainless varmint barrel is a real shooter. They're actually on sale for $120 and you can get free shipping on them. I've built 2 with that barrel for friends/family, and I had them shooting sub-MOA before delivery, with out doing any kind of load development at all. Both barrels that I received had good crowns and chambers passed the test with go/no-go gauges. I'd have to be really nitpicky to find anything wrong with them at all. If you don't believe me, check the reviews on Midway.
Varminterror
New member
Same advice I give everyone asking this question:
1) Good quality barrel, 1:8" or 1:7", 18-20", rifle length gas, "National Match" profile with 0.750" gas block. This keeps the overall weight down, but still with enough forward balance to give you stability on the sticks in the field. Black Hole Weaponry and Kreiger are my "go to" companies for AR barrels.
2) Good quality trigger. Rock River Arms NM or Varminter 2 Stage, with JP yellow springs, Geiselle G2S-E, or NM 2 stage (very expensive, well worth the cost). Triggers don't make rifles more accurate, triggers make rifles more shootable.
3) Free float handguard. It's a coyote rifle, you'll be shooting from various field positions, you need a float tube. I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail and VERY VERY happy with the Midwest Gen 3 Mlok rails.
4) Adjustable Gas Block & H2 buffer. The H2 buffer slows down your unlock time and spreads out your recoil impulse, making the rifle a lot nicer to your brass, a lot easier on its own action, and much easier to manage for follow up shots. The Adjustable Gas Block gives you ultimate control over your cycle, again, to minimize battering of the action, and to ensure reliable function with a broad spectrum of loads. Any old H2 buffer is fine, I usually either buy Colt or Kaw Valley. Most of my builds are JP gas blocks. Odin & SLR are fine as well, but I prefer clamp on type, rather than set screw type, and the JP is lower cost. At Greg's advice, I did buy a BTE last year which has been great. You can't GIVE me a "bleed-off" gas block, so I'm a hard pass on the Superlative.
5) Building your first AR isn't always a good idea. A) If you run into a functional issue between particular parts, the solution might not be readily apparent to the inexperienced. B) You might order parts which aren't compatible, simply because you didn't realize they weren't. C) You might not realize what you really want in your AR, so something which looks good or is highly recommended online might not hit the mark with you (Magpul Bad Lever is one for me - absolutely no use for the thing. I have a couple, but I really just don't have need or use for it). I always recommend "builds" over factory rifles. A better idea might be to either hire a builder like Ritch, OR, find a guy who will help you build it. This can't just be that dude at work who owns a Magpul armorers wrench. If he can't clearly and concisely describe the firing sequence of the FCG, he's not the right guy.
I've done "get to know your new AR classes" with 1st time AR builders for several years, usually one on one or small group. I work with the guys to gather the parts, then they come to my place, build the rifle, tune it, then get instruction on operation and do some live fire instruction. There are guys like me all around, if you look under a few rocks, you'll find them.
1) Good quality barrel, 1:8" or 1:7", 18-20", rifle length gas, "National Match" profile with 0.750" gas block. This keeps the overall weight down, but still with enough forward balance to give you stability on the sticks in the field. Black Hole Weaponry and Kreiger are my "go to" companies for AR barrels.
2) Good quality trigger. Rock River Arms NM or Varminter 2 Stage, with JP yellow springs, Geiselle G2S-E, or NM 2 stage (very expensive, well worth the cost). Triggers don't make rifles more accurate, triggers make rifles more shootable.
3) Free float handguard. It's a coyote rifle, you'll be shooting from various field positions, you need a float tube. I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail and VERY VERY happy with the Midwest Gen 3 Mlok rails.
4) Adjustable Gas Block & H2 buffer. The H2 buffer slows down your unlock time and spreads out your recoil impulse, making the rifle a lot nicer to your brass, a lot easier on its own action, and much easier to manage for follow up shots. The Adjustable Gas Block gives you ultimate control over your cycle, again, to minimize battering of the action, and to ensure reliable function with a broad spectrum of loads. Any old H2 buffer is fine, I usually either buy Colt or Kaw Valley. Most of my builds are JP gas blocks. Odin & SLR are fine as well, but I prefer clamp on type, rather than set screw type, and the JP is lower cost. At Greg's advice, I did buy a BTE last year which has been great. You can't GIVE me a "bleed-off" gas block, so I'm a hard pass on the Superlative.
5) Building your first AR isn't always a good idea. A) If you run into a functional issue between particular parts, the solution might not be readily apparent to the inexperienced. B) You might order parts which aren't compatible, simply because you didn't realize they weren't. C) You might not realize what you really want in your AR, so something which looks good or is highly recommended online might not hit the mark with you (Magpul Bad Lever is one for me - absolutely no use for the thing. I have a couple, but I really just don't have need or use for it). I always recommend "builds" over factory rifles. A better idea might be to either hire a builder like Ritch, OR, find a guy who will help you build it. This can't just be that dude at work who owns a Magpul armorers wrench. If he can't clearly and concisely describe the firing sequence of the FCG, he's not the right guy.
I've done "get to know your new AR classes" with 1st time AR builders for several years, usually one on one or small group. I work with the guys to gather the parts, then they come to my place, build the rifle, tune it, then get instruction on operation and do some live fire instruction. There are guys like me all around, if you look under a few rocks, you'll find them.
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shelton573
Active member
Sent you a pm
Plant.One
Well-known member
Originally Posted By: Varminterror
3). I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail
i own a troy alpha - nice rail, but lots of sharp edges. almost as much of a cheese grater as a quadrail is, especially if shot without gloves.
if you do decide to go this route - make sure you order a set of Squiddies to plug the gaps and take the rough edges off.
i've become a fan of the Samson evolution series. they're in the same price range, a nice solid handguard, and none of the cheese grater sharp points the alpha has.
just my $0.02 USD
as for barrels you just missed out - WOA was having a SPR sale for black friday... one heck of a tube for under $200.
3). I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail
i own a troy alpha - nice rail, but lots of sharp edges. almost as much of a cheese grater as a quadrail is, especially if shot without gloves.
if you do decide to go this route - make sure you order a set of Squiddies to plug the gaps and take the rough edges off.
i've become a fan of the Samson evolution series. they're in the same price range, a nice solid handguard, and none of the cheese grater sharp points the alpha has.
just my $0.02 USD
as for barrels you just missed out - WOA was having a SPR sale for black friday... one heck of a tube for under $200.
Varminterror
New member
Originally Posted By: Plant.OneOriginally Posted By: Varminterror
3). I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail
i own a troy alpha - nice rail, but lots of sharp edges. almost as much of a cheese grater as a quadrail is, especially if shot without gloves.
if you do decide to go this route - make sure you order a set of Squiddies to plug the gaps and take the rough edges off.
I have 4 of them, never really noticed they were any sharper than anything else. Mine are all FDE, maybe they're blasted differently.
3). I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail
i own a troy alpha - nice rail, but lots of sharp edges. almost as much of a cheese grater as a quadrail is, especially if shot without gloves.
if you do decide to go this route - make sure you order a set of Squiddies to plug the gaps and take the rough edges off.
I have 4 of them, never really noticed they were any sharper than anything else. Mine are all FDE, maybe they're blasted differently.
Originally Posted By: Plant.OneOriginally Posted By: Varminterror
3). I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail
i own a troy alpha - nice rail, but lots of sharp edges. almost as much of a cheese grater as a quadrail is, especially if shot without gloves.
if you do decide to go this route - make sure you order a set of Squiddies to plug the gaps and take the rough edges off.
i've become a fan of the Samson evolution series. they're in the same price range, a nice solid handguard, and none of the cheese grater sharp points the alpha has.
just my $0.02 USD
as for barrels you just missed out - WOA was having a SPR sale for black friday... one heck of a tube for under $200.
Have you seen the ALG EMR free float tubes? They're top notch and the price is super reasonable. You can get them in M-LOK with or without the top rail. They also have the V0-E model, which is my favorite for a varmint rifle. It just has one set of holes on the very end for mounting sections of picatinny rail, which means less holes to get snow packed in.
3). I've been very happy with the Troy Alpha Rail
i own a troy alpha - nice rail, but lots of sharp edges. almost as much of a cheese grater as a quadrail is, especially if shot without gloves.
if you do decide to go this route - make sure you order a set of Squiddies to plug the gaps and take the rough edges off.
i've become a fan of the Samson evolution series. they're in the same price range, a nice solid handguard, and none of the cheese grater sharp points the alpha has.
just my $0.02 USD
as for barrels you just missed out - WOA was having a SPR sale for black friday... one heck of a tube for under $200.
Have you seen the ALG EMR free float tubes? They're top notch and the price is super reasonable. You can get them in M-LOK with or without the top rail. They also have the V0-E model, which is my favorite for a varmint rifle. It just has one set of holes on the very end for mounting sections of picatinny rail, which means less holes to get snow packed in.
Plant.One
Well-known member
cant say that i've looked at them specifically, but they look ok.
i do prefer a full length top rail, but thats a personal preference - and if i'm being perfectly honest its mostly cosmetic reasons.
for the $$ those look like a decent gig, i'd just be cautious that the ID fits your barrel profile and gas block style well without interference. if the GB is making contact with the handguard, that can cause holy [beeep] with your accuracy. i want a least enough room between there to slide a business card in.
i do prefer a full length top rail, but thats a personal preference - and if i'm being perfectly honest its mostly cosmetic reasons.
for the $$ those look like a decent gig, i'd just be cautious that the ID fits your barrel profile and gas block style well without interference. if the GB is making contact with the handguard, that can cause holy [beeep] with your accuracy. i want a least enough room between there to slide a business card in.