Trigger Problem...Help!

Bluedog

New member
Took my Anderson Manufacturing AM-15 to the range for the first time today. Factory ammo.

Problem was that I would have to flip the safety from fire to safe and back to fire ...which reset the trigger...to be able to shoot each round. Swapped lowers with my nephew and no more issues so we know its something do with the trigger. Any suggestions?
 
Try pushing forward on the trigger. It sounds like the hammer may be getting hung up on the disconnector.
 
What is the fix? You are talking to a bolt action guy with his first AR. Had a similar one for 12 years workin for uncle sam but they were sloppy and loose.
 
Well, if pushing the trigger forward gets it so you can fire it again, you’ve got one of a couple of things wrong. All easy fixes.

1) If the trigger-spring has been replaced with a lighter spring, or purposely bent to get a lighter trigger pull, just replacing the trigger-spring would take care of it.

2). It could be a defective hammer or disconnector. I have seen situations just like yours where the spur on the hammer was causing the problem.
 
Its brand new so nothing has changed on it yet. Is that something I can polish or clean up with a stone...or just replace the trigger mechanism?
 
I’m sure it’s something you can fix fairly easily. Try pushing forward on the trigger and take note of how much force is needed. If it pushes with ease, just a trigger-spring may be all you need. If it takes quite a bit of force, then you may be looking at a new hammer or disconnector.

If it’s new, does the place you purchased it have even a little service available?
 
Cabela's...they couldn't mount a scope straight...not sure I have confidence in em to troubleshoot this problem.
 
what trigger is in it? what style (mil spec? or cassette style like a timney?) are you shooting it suppressed? more details please.


the reason i ask - my timney started doing this on one of my uppers when run suppressed. was just overgassed and the carrier was outrunning the trigger reset.

h2 buffer fixed it right quick. just enough of a slow down on the carrier speed to let things cycle properly.


did you try your nephew's upper on your lower? what buffer is he running, etc
 
Originally Posted By: Bluedog Is that something I can polish or clean up with a stone...

generally speaking, with an AR trigger group this is a REEEEEEELY bad idea.

the mating surfaces are just surface hardened. and not very deep. so if you start stoning stuff, you can remove the hardened part pretty easily.

once that hardened surface is gone, its only a matter of time until you have a runaway trigger due to the mating surfaces wearing.

and should that event happen around an authority figure having a bad day, you're now standing there in posession of a firearm thats afoul of NFA rules as its considered a unregistered machine gun.

just something to consider before you start messing around with home gunsmith "trigger jobs" on an ar trigger group.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnK9027If it's brand new I would send the lower back for warranty work.


I know it should work from the factory and its their responsibility to make it right....but.....in this case.....I'd just put an aftermarket fire control group in it. Stock trigger groups are terrible, even when they work right. An ALG ACT is only like $60, and its sooo much better than OEM. Plus, you'll save yourself the trouble of sending it back for however long customer service feels like keeping it, and its something most people end up doing down the road anyway.
 
With the lower separated from the upper and no magazine in the lower receiver you can dry fire/work the fire control group a bit to possibly correct that issue. Rotate the safety to fire and pull the trigger. You'll want to catch the hammer with your hand (don't let it hit the lower receiver). You can also pull up on the hammer a little while pulling on the trigger to help things along, which it sounds like you may need to do. That can typically clear up any small burrs or tight tolerance in the trigger housing in a few minutes.
 
Throw that trigger in the garbage and get a Rock River 2 stage varmint trigger for $88. Great trigger and problem solved. It's probably a 6-7# trigger anyhow.

Jim D
 
I was going to go with a timney trigger but like the price a lot better on the RRA trigger. The current trigger is a very heavy pull with a lot of creep and breaks like a wet noodle. Thank you all for your suggestions.
 
I feel your pain. This kind of thing shouldn't happen and a customer certainly shouldn't have to try and fix it themselves. As a couple of the guys here have said, it sounds like a bad trigger/disconnector/hammer issue. It can be hit or miss even with new parts. Some of them are coming off the assembly lines where their edges are so sharp they hang up and that sounds a lot like what is happening here.

You will be much happier with an aftermarket replacement trigger. Normally I would recommend this after you have shot your gun and have learned the original trigger but in this case I think you can skip that step.
 
It printed an inch and a quarter group at 100 yards even with me resetting the trigger every time...and thats 20 shots....so the action will shoot...just need a half decent trigger. I aint mad because i only paid 400 for it brand new....so that's a crap shoot really. I think with a good trigger it will shoot moa or better and thats all I need for coyotes.
 
Bluedog my guess is it's a very easy fix. Take the fire control parts out which is very easy to do by pushing two pins out. Leave the safety in or you will need to remove the grip to remove the safety detent. The disconector spring is tappered, make sure the large end is down. If its upside down it wont let the disconnector reset. It won't hurt a thing to smooth the contact surfaces by rubbing them on leather, cardboard or a white polishing stone. Use some lube on the contact surfaces when you reassemble. Its not uncommon to have new parts that need to wear in. We had one here at Thanksgiving. LPK in a stripped lower. If you un-pin the lower and operate the trigger, hammer, and watch the disconnector work you will most likely see the problem. Just don't let the hammer snap forward into the receiver or bolt catch. Easy as Pie.
 
Originally Posted By: JoeBobOutfittersWith the lower separated from the upper and no magazine in the lower receiver you can dry fire/work the fire control group a bit to possibly correct that issue. Rotate the safety to fire and pull the trigger. You'll want to catch the hammer with your hand (don't let it hit the lower receiver). You can also pull up on the hammer a little while pulling on the trigger to help things along, which it sounds like you may need to do. That can typically clear up any small burrs or tight tolerance in the trigger housing in a few minutes.

Good news! This is what I did, and it is working correctly now. Took it out this morning for 30 rounds...no malfunctions...no resets...no issues at all...other than the 137 lb trigger pull...all is well! Thanks Guys!

Bluedog
 
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