Do I have to flesh???
- Thread starter Z
- Start date
How many are you going to do?
If it's a couple, then no, not really.
It could be a 6" or 8" pipe cut in half lengthwise if you want.
You could make one if you like. It's not hard to do with an angle grinder and a belt sander.
Get a beam, a log, I just prefer hardwood. lay a stretcher on it and trace that from the top on to the beam. cut that out, and then use an old bucket and cut off the bottom, and use the angle grinder to remove most of the material to match the same contour as the 5 gallon bucket. You only need to do this for the first 3 feet. (that is all you use)
Then use the belt sander to smooth it out so you can't feel with your hand any dents or unevenness. Then round over the underneath to make it smooth too. Last will be to use the belt sander to run up and down the way you would run the fleshing knife.
I made one out of Mesquite. it's got a base that i can stand on, with rubber feet on the bottom to keep it from moving during fleshing. One end is connected to the base, and folds flat and stores away when not in use. I also suggest sanding it as smooth as you can, and lots of layers of finish that you choose. I didn't want that nasty fatty mess soaking in.
If it's a couple, then no, not really.
It could be a 6" or 8" pipe cut in half lengthwise if you want.
You could make one if you like. It's not hard to do with an angle grinder and a belt sander.
Get a beam, a log, I just prefer hardwood. lay a stretcher on it and trace that from the top on to the beam. cut that out, and then use an old bucket and cut off the bottom, and use the angle grinder to remove most of the material to match the same contour as the 5 gallon bucket. You only need to do this for the first 3 feet. (that is all you use)
Then use the belt sander to smooth it out so you can't feel with your hand any dents or unevenness. Then round over the underneath to make it smooth too. Last will be to use the belt sander to run up and down the way you would run the fleshing knife.
I made one out of Mesquite. it's got a base that i can stand on, with rubber feet on the bottom to keep it from moving during fleshing. One end is connected to the base, and folds flat and stores away when not in use. I also suggest sanding it as smooth as you can, and lots of layers of finish that you choose. I didn't want that nasty fatty mess soaking in.
I have fleshed coyotes while they're on the fur stretcher. There's a membrane you can work loose and peel and if it doesn't tear it's a little faster. Then you just get the last of it off piece by piece.
Maybe I'm just not good at it but I know one thing it's not very costs effective when you figure the time you put into it. A fleshing board of any kind would beat having to do that.
Maybe I'm just not good at it but I know one thing it's not very costs effective when you figure the time you put into it. A fleshing board of any kind would beat having to do that.
beaverquack
New member
I just use a 1X8 board for a fleshing beam and a Hyde brand paint scraper. Have fleshed otters, coon, cats, coyotes nutria you name it same method.
Uncle Jimbo
New member
Originally Posted By: catbegoneyes if you want quality putup fur. Use a beam and a good fleshing knife and it will make your life eaiser
I’m with catbegone. I’ve always gone by the adage, “If you are going to do something, do it right.” Using the proper tools of good quality often saves a lot of time and improves the quality of the product. If you are planning to sell fur, the improved quality and subsequent selling price of a properly put-up pelt will pay for the tools needed.
I’m with catbegone. I’ve always gone by the adage, “If you are going to do something, do it right.” Using the proper tools of good quality often saves a lot of time and improves the quality of the product. If you are planning to sell fur, the improved quality and subsequent selling price of a properly put-up pelt will pay for the tools needed.
Once you learn to use a good fleshing knife and beam you will wonder why you spent all that time using a pocket knife.
I have about a dozen fleshing knives. And finally I have found one that just works for my style of fleshing. Its a Caribou and use it for cats and coyotes, and coons and beavers. I used a cheap fleshing knife for years for coyotes and cats, and it did what I wanted it to, just took a little more effort.
Im a consignment agent for the CO Fur auction, and fleshing and fur put up are the two areas that the biggest majority of people need work on.
That membrane on a coyotes back can stay if there is no fat under it, if you see white under it you better take it off. Coyotes should sound like wrinkling paper when fleshed correctly. If they stand out on there own while dried like a board, chances are they are not fleshed good enough.
I have about a dozen fleshing knives. And finally I have found one that just works for my style of fleshing. Its a Caribou and use it for cats and coyotes, and coons and beavers. I used a cheap fleshing knife for years for coyotes and cats, and it did what I wanted it to, just took a little more effort.
Im a consignment agent for the CO Fur auction, and fleshing and fur put up are the two areas that the biggest majority of people need work on.
That membrane on a coyotes back can stay if there is no fat under it, if you see white under it you better take it off. Coyotes should sound like wrinkling paper when fleshed correctly. If they stand out on there own while dried like a board, chances are they are not fleshed good enough.