Avoid SLR Rifleworks adjustable gas blocks and handguards

C

cmatera

Active member
Built 2 ar uppers (6 x 45 and .264 LBC-6.5 Grendel clone) using SLR 7 handguards, adjustable gas blocks and gas tubes. I tested these rifles for function, and after waiting over a year for the stamps (suppressor), I finally started shooting them for accuracy. Both have unexplained fliers. In looking my builds over, both guns have the gas block hitting the inside of the handguard. Calling SLR is a waste of time. They don't even answer the phone, but force you to leave your phone number. I paid $400 for each guns parts-yes $800. Turns out the problem is well known:

http://forums.brianenos.com/topic/218871-gas-block-hitting-handguard/

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-8356.html

just a heads up. These guys cost me hundreds of dollars in gas for trips to the range and wasted ammo in addition to the defective parts.
 
Originally Posted By: cmateraBuilt 2 ar uppers (6 x 45 and .264 LBC-6.5 Grendel clone) using SLR 7 handguards, adjustable gas blocks and gas tubes. I tested these rifles for function, and after waiting over a year for the stamps (suppressor), I finally started shooting them for accuracy. Both have unexplained fliers. In looking my builds over, both guns have the gas block hitting the inside of the handguard. Calling SLR is a waste of time. They don't even answer the phone, but force you to leave your phone number. I paid $400 for each guns parts-yes $800. Turns out the problem is well known:

http://forums.brianenos.com/topic/218871-gas-block-hitting-handguard/

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-8356.html

just a heads up. These guys cost me hundreds of dollars in gas for trips to the range and wasted ammo in addition to the defective parts.

When we chatted I'd forgotten about those little issues. of the HG/GB interference. I've been using the BTE, the new Tactical Ordnance and Joe Bobs. The TO is the smallest I've ever seen. If you must go front adjustable then the JB is good.. Of course they don't have the whiz bang detent system of the ones that cost three times as much.

Glad to hear you sorted it out. This is another reason why 80% of my uppers have exposed gas blocks.

Greg
 
That's ridiculous that they don't check for compatibility. I use their gas blocks on all my rifles but never messed with their hand guards.

I'd try emailing them if you can. No one seems to return calls anymore
 
Originally Posted By: Redleg84That's ridiculous that they don't check for compatibility. I use their gas blocks on all my rifles but never messed with their hand guards.

I'd try emailing them if you can. No one seems to return calls anymore

This.

Mine has good clearance under my JP MK3 handguard which is really slim. The handguard you got must have a tiny ID.
 
It’s far from sorted out. Both guns were built to be suppressed. I have to remove the optics, remove the compnsator/suppressor that is Rocksett on, and start over. After waiting 13 months fo my suppressor stamp, I’m sorry I ever decided to do this. You cannot see the interference from the front. It’s like 1” into the tube and you have to look thru the holes in the side (keymod). If I ever do this again, the gb will be exposed or the tube bigger so there’s no way it can hit. I have small hands and prefer a slim tube. I thought I was safe buying both from the same mfgr.
 
Why can't you just clearance the inside of the handguard so the gas block doesn't touch it. That would solve your problem, and more than likely, you wouldn't be able to even see the spot that has been clearanced.
 
From what I read, they don't want you to clearance the handguard, but the gas block. If they don't call me back, that's what I'll do. Shouldn't have to on a $400 handguard and gb (per gun) from the same mfgr though.

I can guarantee you, if they said I might have to fit/grind it, I would not have bought them.
 
Last edited:
I have 3 uppers using the SLR gas blocks and their key mod hand guards no problems with any of it and never had a problem with them answering the phone either. Sorry u having problems but doesn’t make much sense based on my experience with SLR.

Also I remember them sending out an email a few weeks back saying their shop had flooded from the hurricane. Not sure how thats affecting customer service
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: cmateraIt’s far from sorted out. Both guns were built to be suppressed. I have to remove the optics, remove the compnsator/suppressor that is Rocksett on, and start over. After waiting 13 months fo my suppressor stamp, I’m sorry I ever decided to do this. You cannot see the interference from the front. It’s like 1” into the tube and you have to look thru the holes in the side (keymod). If I ever do this again, the gb will be exposed or the tube bigger so there’s no way it can hit. I have small hands and prefer a slim tube. I thought I was safe buying both from the same mfgr.

Sorry to hear you are having issues with the SLR handguard.

I also like the slim profile myself and have started using the Mega Wedge Lock which has a very slim profile and comes with a titanium barrel nut that torques at 65 ft/lbs. They make it in KeyMod or M-Lok and use 7075-T6 extruded aluminum. They are relatively expensive but worth it IMO. You might check them out for your next build or pick one up if you can return the SLR.

I had trouble finding an adjustable gas block that would fit under the Mega Wedge Lock but SLR Sentry worked just fine. The SLR model handguard must be really slim for you to have clearance issues.

Just as a side note I am curious about the Rockset for your muzzle device? I torque my YHM QD flash hiders for my Phantom suppressor to 20-25 ft/bs and have never had one loosen in 5 years running numerous calibers.

http://www.megaarms.com/ar-15/ar-15-hand-guards/wedge-lock-ar-15-hand-guard/

TIght Fit

olp2AkP.jpg


2aILFkm.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mine is a clamp on. There is supposed to be a little more clearance if you dimple the barrel. I went clamp on because my barrel profile is pretty slim. I have learned that my setup is a Gen 3. There is a new Gen 4 out that looks to have more clearance. At this point, I have a few choices. I can take off the handguard and grind the GB with a file/Dremel and color it with a black Sharpie. I can soak the tip of the barrel in water to loosen the Rocksett, remove the muzzle break and peel washer (which is also the suppressor mount) sell the GB's and handguards and start with a new ones. I could remove the handguard a put a shorter one on that would leave the GB exposed. If I used one from the same manufacturer, I might be able to use the same barrel nut so I would not have to remove the GB and tube. It could be an easy swap out, but since the manufacturer will not respond, I hesitate to spend any more money with them.

My muzzle break is also my suppressor mount. It is an SAS TOMB mount (Thread Over Muzzle Break). Most Loc Tite them on or Rocksett. I went Rocksett, because if soaked overnight in water, it's supposed to be removable. I found that more appealing than using a propane torch to remove one that is Loc Tite on.

I have not decided which way to go. I never really considered a Dremel the way to build an AR. I think a long time before grinding anything, at which point the resale value is zero instead of 35%. Seems like most people think grinding to fit is no big deal. That's why I don't buy many things used.
 
I have a similar issue with a V7 lo pro Titanium gas block, Wilson Combat LW barrel, and Midwest Industries LWM12G3 handguard.

The Wilson barrel is .750 at the gas block, which is fine with 99% of the handguards out there. But this LWM-G3 handguard is so slim and skinny that it 'almost' touches on the bottom of the gas block/handguard.
If I flex the barrel down, it touches. If I put pressure on the handguard, it doesn't flex up into the gas block/barrel though.

There's one m-lok section that I could probably dremel out to make more clearance , but then I would have two sections of m-lok that are unusable. But truthfully they're already unusable due to the clearance with the gas block issue! lol follow?

As far as I can tell, accuracy isn't affected. Even with my suppressor on it doesn't flex the barrel enough to touch the handguard. It is very very close though.
 
Last edited:
where is your interference on the top or the bottom? Pictures? I could see a clamp on having issues on the bottom as the slim rails sit very close there. I can't use the Mlok under my GB because the t nut would hit the GB
 
I do not have any experience with the SLR's. I have used many of the inexpensive Joe Bobs adjustable gas blocks with zero issues and pretty much use them on all my builds now.
 
I just measured a 0750 Tactical Ordnance adjustable set screw type. It is 1.296 tall. From the top of the block to center line of the bore is right on 0.777 nominal. I suspect it will slip right in under the forearm.

Greg
 
I took both guns apart today and did what I did not want to, with a Dremel. You could see a tiny shiny mark where the edge of the GB was contacting the inside of the handguard. I stoned it down and for good measure took a little off the high point on the button head socket cap screw they used. A lower profile screw head would go a long way to avoiding this issue. I had no interference on the bottom. All the interference was on the gas vent side with the screw and at the far inside of the tube. Because my GB is completely covered, it was difficult to find, but I have it fixed. I have clearance now. Mine is a Gen 3. The Gen 4 looks like it has addressed this issue.
 
One would think that a manufacturer would check for compatibility for their parts, and some do. Often times I have found a breakdown on their websites when I go to check for specifications. Some of them give more specs than you could ever want and some, as is this case, don't give you enough to make an informed decision. Sadly, it is buyer beware, which is why forums like this are so nice so we can share tips, tricks and sadly some bad stories as well.
 
The irritating thing is, you go to their website. Under contact us, they give you a phone #. When you call and press 1 for customer service/tech support, they tell you to leave a phone # to call you back, but they never do. Glad this site is the way it is. I also tried to warn others on a well known AR site and got crucified. If you say anything negative about one of their “industry partners”, a bunch of GI Joe wannabees jump down your throat. They said I wanted something for nothing-right, I paid $800 for the parts direct from the mfgr. They said I was a troll, a liberal and a bunch of other fine stuff. Truth is, they’re the trolls who want something for nothing. They sit there like gargoyles and pounce, and from their posts, it’s obvious they don’t even own the product. The amazing thing is, the gargoyles can summon the “industry partner” in a matter of minutes. Then you get a PM from the “industry partner” offering help. The “industry partner” then PM’s each of the gargoyles asking for their mailing address so he can send them free stickers, patches, and other junk to thank them for abusing the customer they ignored. I bought these items in 4Q 2015 (AFAIK the mfgr was not an industry partner then), but since I was waiting 13 months for the stamp, the problem went undiscovered. Just as I did here, I showed posts indicating others had the same problem. In addition to zero customer service, their website is useless. My parts were Gen 3. They have since come out with Gen 4, which may have addressed some of the issue. Since I had to disassemble the gun, I tried to find the torque values for the hand guard bolts but there was nothing in the FAQ or anywhere else. The info is only for Gen4. I emailed through the site asking if they were still in biz since I could not get a call back. A Todd Gardner replied and asked what I needed, saying phone calls were hard to keep up with. Then why do you even have a phone number listed on your website? Of course, by then I had ground the gas block and guessed on the torque value. I can guarantee you none of their installation videos talked about Dremeling to fit. Rant over.
On a more positive note, grinding the gas block worked. I went to the range today. Had two 1/2” groups and one 1/4”group at 100 yds before I ran out of ammo, and the gunstore near the range is closed on Monday. I knew the BHW barrel was capable of better than 1 1/2”. Thanks to all for the help and ideas. No more arfleamarket.com for me. Equipment Exchange is the only section worth looking at anyway.
 
Thanks for the follow up information about the "modifications."

I completely understand and agree about some of the manufacturers and their responsiveness or lack there of. As a manufacturer, I can attest that there are good and bad parts suppliers. We sometimes get treated the same way. I always tend to do business with those companies that are responsive and have great customer service. And spending big bucks is no guaranty anymore. Sure, there was a time when high dollar equated to good customer service. That seems to be falling off quite a bit.

In the end I think that it will all work itself out. As more people have experiences like yours, they will find alternative companies that are more responsive and will do business with them. It is a self correcting problem. The free market is self correcting.
 
Back
Top