Heres one for you all

D

dan158

New member
I got the Redding type S die for 223..
I went to bump the shoulder back 003.. Die down the whole way and no bump back..
I shaved about .003 off the shell holder and again the shoulder didn't get bumped back..
I looked between the shell holder and die as I raised the case into the die.. It stops and I have a large gap between shell holder and the die.. Hrmmm.
I had to loosen the rod assembly and to let the bushing float quite a bit so I could get the bump back I needed.. I am new to bushing dies and the directions I didn't read and set it up as a regular die pretty much.. Does this sound correct or did I miss a step or what should I do? Thanks all.. Dan
 
I have never used a Redding S die, but looking at the link below, it appears to me that they make an S type die in both NECK and FULL LENGTH....which do you have?

Redding S Dies

Regards,
hm
 
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Originally Posted By: hm1996I have never used a Redding S die, but looking at the link below, it appears to me that they make an S type die in both NECK and FULL LENGTH....which do you have?

Redding S Dies

Regards,
hm

FL
 
Originally Posted By: dan158I got the Redding type S die for 223..
I went to bump the shoulder back 003.. Die down the whole way and no bump back..
I shaved about .003 off the shell holder and again the shoulder didn't get bumped back..
I looked between the shell holder and die as I raised the case into the die.. It stops and I have a large gap between shell holder and the die.. Hrmmm.
I had to loosen the rod assembly and to let the bushing float quite a bit so I could get the bump back I needed.. I am new to bushing dies and the directions I didn't read and set it up as a regular die pretty much.. Does this sound correct or did I miss a step or what should I do? Thanks all.. Dan

Keep turning the die in. If you have gap it has more to go.

Bushing float has nothing to do with shoulder bump.

Greg

PS I haven't forgotten your data.
thumbup.gif
 
If the decapping rod and expander ball are bottoming out preventing the case to fully enter the die. There is a knurled nut on the stem that bottoms out on the bushing , loosen that and you can screw the decapping shaft further up into the stem allowing the shell to fully enter the die..
 
Originally Posted By: AWSIf the decapping rod and expander ball are bottoming out preventing the case to fully enter the die. There is a knurled nut on the stem that bottoms out on the bushing , loosen that and you can screw the decapping shaft further up into the stem allowing the shell to fully enter the die..

Not likely.
The stem assembly would break.
 
You don't have them set up right
wink.gif



Originally Posted By: AWSIf the decapping rod and expander ball are bottoming out preventing the case to fully enter the die. There is a knurled nut on the stem that bottoms out on the bushing , loosen that and you can screw the decapping shaft further up into the stem allowing the shell to fully enter the die..

BINGO^^^^^^
 
The decapping ball and pin is removed... So it is not bottoming out.. I have to loosen the knurled nut on the stem and back it out, when I do this the shell then goes all the way up into the die and sets the soulder back.. But if I have that nob turned down against the bushing then the case will not go all the way up into the die and the shoulder does not get set back.. Dan
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: AWSIf the decapping rod and expander ball are bottoming out preventing the case to fully enter the die. There is a knurled nut on the stem that bottoms out on the bushing , loosen that and you can screw the decapping shaft further up into the stem allowing the shell to fully enter the die..

Not likely.
The stem assembly would break.

Yes I have done when first got the S die.I had to order a new one.. It bent it.. Dan So it is not that..
 
Originally Posted By: GLShooterOriginally Posted By: dan158I got the Redding type S die for 223..
I went to bump the shoulder back 003.. Die down the whole way and no bump back..
I shaved about .003 off the shell holder and again the shoulder didn't get bumped back..
I looked between the shell holder and die as I raised the case into the die.. It stops and I have a large gap between shell holder and the die.. Hrmmm.
I had to loosen the rod assembly and to let the bushing float quite a bit so I could get the bump back I needed.. I am new to bushing dies and the directions I didn't read and set it up as a regular die pretty much.. Does this sound correct or did I miss a step or what should I do? Thanks all.. Dan

Keep turning the die in. If you have gap it has more to go.

Bushing float has nothing to do with shoulder bump.

Greg

PS I haven't forgotten your data.
thumbup.gif


Thank you for the data GL... The die is screwed down touching the top of the shell holder.. When I raise the shell it goes up and stops with a gap between shell holder and die.. It will not go up any further unless I back the knob out...
 
I believe the bushing is meant to float just a little. Some people let it float enough so that they only size part way down the neck.
I size all way down. I don't use the button either.Works very good for me.
Some things about bushing dies I like and some things not so good.
I believe the numbers are to be turned up on the bushing also.
There is some info on Reddings site on bushing dies that is not in the instructions that was helpful to me.
 
Originally Posted By: tnshootistI believe the bushing is meant to float just a little. Some people let it float enough so that they only size part way down the neck.
I size all way down. I don't use the button either.Works very good for me.
Some things about bushing dies I like and some things not so good.
I believe the numbers are to be turned up on the bushing also.
There is some info on Reddings site on bushing dies that is not in the instructions that was helpful to me.

It is supposed to float a little so it centers the bushing also.. If it doesn't float and the bushing is out of line it will kink the neck down.. Found that out also.. I have wilsons bushings and I believe I read about numbers also because of a bevel to help align the neck.. Dan
 
When you are setting up your die, are you just screwing it down till it touches the shell holder with the ram all the way up, then locking it in place or are you screwing it down further so it cams over after it contacts the shell holder??
 
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Originally Posted By: B23When you are setting up your die, are you just screwing it down till it touches the shell holder with the ram all the way up, then locking it in place or are you screwing it down further so it cams over after it contacts the shell holder??

"Cam over" is useless and a total waste of time.
 
Originally Posted By: dan158Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: AWSIf the decapping rod and expander ball are bottoming out preventing the case to fully enter the die. There is a knurled nut on the stem that bottoms out on the bushing , loosen that and you can screw the decapping shaft further up into the stem allowing the shell to fully enter the die..

Not likely.
The stem assembly would break.

Yes I have done when first got the S die.I had to order a new one.. It bent it.. Dan So it is not that..

I broke one on a FL sizing die.
Been there-done that!!

grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: B23When you are setting up your die, are you just screwing it down till it touches the shell holder with the ram all the way up, then locking it in place or are you screwing it down further so it cams over after it contacts the shell holder??

"Cam over" is useless and a total waste of time.

I don't see how cam over does anything.. It just puts pressure on the press and unless you got a shell holder made of lead that can be compressed a little, I don't see how it can work?
 
Originally Posted By: dan158Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: B23When you are setting up your die, are you just screwing it down till it touches the shell holder with the ram all the way up, then locking it in place or are you screwing it down further so it cams over after it contacts the shell holder??

"Cam over" is useless and a total waste of time.

I don't see how cam over does anything.. It just puts pressure on the press and unless you got a shell holder made of lead that can be compressed a little, I don't see how it can work?

It can't and it doesn't. Who knows who started the myth. Probably the same the one that you have to screw the die in to the shell holder.

Greg
 
Redding in their faq explains cam over to set back shoulders,and what it feels like finishing the press stroke using fl dies. But you also have to properly adjust the recapping rod and button and bushing play. I picked up some new bushing neck dies(cheap) and after I order the correct bushings I will start to play with them. Your rifles chamber will determine how much cam over(1/8-1/4 turn in after lowering ram) is required to eliminate excessive bolt closing force. Some rifle chamber/die combinations may not need cam over adjustment.
 
Redding will also tell you on the phone you can't use their bushing fl dies to load AR15 ammo too.

What a shame I'm so ignorant.

Greg
 
I would just call Redding and see if they can offer any advice. I have a Redding 6.5 Rem. Mag. seating die that wouldn't seat 129gr Hornady SP's deep enough to fit in the magazine of the 600 and 660 Remington's with the seating stem bottomed out, called them and was told to send it back and they would fix the problem. Whoever I was talking to knew exactly what the problem was, and when I received the die back I was able to seat those bullets and have plenty of adjustment left on the stem.
 
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