Build it or Buy it?

TripleDeuce660

TripleDeuce660

Active member
Thinking about getting my first AR. Only reason I want one is because I just moved from a communist state to a free one. Only purpose for the gun will be prairie dogs.

Looking at the RRA A4 Varmint 24" in .223 wylde.

Could I build something similar to this for a lot less?

I do not really know anything about ARs except that if you want a submoa gun with a good trigger it will cost ya more than a bolt gun.

No idea what parts to buy, and honestly do not want to spend months doing research at the moment. However, the price is a lot considering cabelas has savage model 12s for 279 after rebate.
 
Not sure what the RRA Varmint goes for on the street, but I'd venture you could build it with a better barrel, same trigger (or a bit better), better stock, better grip, for a couple hundred bucks less.

Luth-AR stock runs about $100, much better stock than the A2 on the RRA A4 Varminter. The Rock River NM or Varmint 2 stage, plus JP yellow springs tend to be the cheapest "top quality" varminting trigger. Brownells sells Lower Parts Kits for $30 all year round. Grab an Ergo or BCM grip for $30. Midwest and Troy do great float tubes for $150-200. Black Hole barrels through Ritch's Precision for $250-300. RRA BCG's are almost always on sale through their site. JP gas blocks keep me happy, $75 for the adjustable low pro model. Forged upper for $60 or less, forged lower for $100 or less.
 
If you are using this primarily as a P dog gun and it'll be on a bench or bipod, there shouldn't be an issue with the 24" barrel. Balance will be off a bit, but you aren't the one supporting it, who cares?
 
Do you reload? I would consider having Ritch build you an upper then just do the lower yourself. There is YouTube videos that can walk you through it.
 
You are not going to like that A4 Varmint RRA upper, and you will not like a 24" version of it even more. I had a A4 Varmint 20" upper. Try strapping a heavy steel pry bar to your favorite rifle, at the barrel, and walk around your yard with it a few times. It won't take long to understand why you don't want a A4 Varmint upper. It is heavy and it destroys the balance of any AR-15. If you intend to only haul it from your vehicle, to a bench a few feet away, then you may not care about a front heavy clunker of a rifle. They are accurate, and the bull barrel takes a few more shots to warm up, but it also takes longer to cool.

I can't help you if you don't want to take the time to research a build, of stuff you prefer, but don't buy an off the shelf rifle, with a bull barrel. A factory rifle with a "HBAR" barrel will be pleasant to handle, and if a quality barrel and chamber(223 Wylde is a good start), it should be plenty accurate for small varmint shooting.

One approach, that may actually be a cheaper path to fun with ARs, is to buy the cheapest AR-15 you can find(with a forward assist), and swap out stuff as you learn what you like in AR-15s. The barrel and trigger, along with a free float tube, are usually the first to go. Although I have seen some good shooting barrels, from some pretty budget friendly barrel makers. That part is always a gamble.

The AR-15 is a Lego gun. Swapping out stuff is relatively simple, and in most cases, addicting. Now is a great time to buy a budget AR-15, off the shelf, and start shooting it. It will soon become apparent what your first part swap will be.

Squeeze
 
I only plan to shoot off of sticks, bipod, or bench. The bolt gun is 26 inch and also pushing 10 pounds, so AR or bolt gun im not walking far with it. I want it to be a heavy tank. Maybe even add weight on the stock to balance it. I have a 455 fluted 17hmr that is 7lbs scoped or tikka 223 for walking.
 
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A Magpul PRS with a Atlas monopod will anchor down the rear end, especially if you're going to be shooting from a bench. I would build one from scratch to your liking if it were me. You'll end up wanting to change stuff later most likely anyway on an off the shelf rifle.
 
You should probably just buy my low round count 5.56 stag model 6 super varmint....
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Originally Posted By: crapshootCould be wrong, but I doubt you'll like the 24" barrel in an AR. I don't think you are wrong. I bought a Bushmaster 24" Fluted barrel off a guy and wish I hadn't . It is still sitting in the closet. Too long in my opinion for an AR.
 
Look at a Rock River 20" Predator Pursuit, or a Coyote, or R-3. Shorter barrels, but real tack drivers. Sure anyone can build a AR cheaper, but I like the "store bought" for now, that come already to shoot without any fine adjustments required. My 3 Rocks all shoot the 3/4 MOA garentee with factory ammunition, but I handload all my own. Good luck on whatever you decide to buy.
 
Not without weight (pun not intended) - a heavy barreled 24" AR will top the scales somewhere around 13lbs in the field once it's scoped and podded. Big difference in a bolt gun weight and AR weight. Shooting either from a pod makes the weight relatively moot, and personally, I don't carry my rifles at low ready in the field, so I don't really worry much about weight even for a calling rifle - anything under 15lbs is fine field fare for me.

24" rifles are long, no question, but when you want to reach out for Pdogs, it's well worth the length. I have had a couple 29" AR's for match rifles, for their purpose, the length is worth it. I will say, I don't like heavy muzzle rifles, so I stay away from .836" and .920" gas block/muzzle rifles, favoring .750" blocked rifles. Probably just a personal preference, however - too long staring at service rifles - and I've never felt I needed THAT much muzzle torque.

Heavier barrels don't take longer to cool down, not sure where that came from. Bigger diameter = larger surface area = more heat transfer...
 
Build your own! I have a couple I put together using some pretty inexpensive .750 barrels and they shock me how good they shoot.I purchased one of them mil spec for 40.00 bucks shoots as well as my 280.00 big name barrel.Go figure.
 
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