Think i'm ready to build/buy my first AR and I need help

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newcoyotehunter

New member
Think I have decided i'm ready to move into the AR world. Here are the only items that are critical to me. I want to be able to continue to shoot my 53 gr vmax hornady ammo. Want to be 1" moa or better. With the research i've done so far it seems that shooting the vmax through most barrels is a problem? Also seems like most shelf bought AR's are not going to have the accuracy i'm looking for. Anyone have any info/help on builds you've done that will fit my criteria?! Would like to stay right around $1000 if possible. Thanks for the help in advance.
 
I remember being impressed with the accuracy of the Vmax when Hornady introduced them. I used them with a lot of success on coyotes. It seems like the Vmax has started to suffer a bit in the accuracy category recently. I have personally found that the Hornady SP's are more accurate out of most of my rifles. So I am not sure that it is so much a rifle/barrel issue as it is a bullet issue. You are right, that a lot of the off the self rifles are probably not going to get you what you want.
 
Good for you. It's overwhelming at first but you can totally do this within your budget and i would say that you can put glass on that rifle and still be under that $.

I bought a stripped lower. Mil Spec. (very important for ease of building)

I then bought a Rock River 2 stage match trigger. It's great and a good value. I bought a grip that is comfortable, and with an eye on weight bought the other parts like the adjustable stock and others. You can literally go to Rock River or Midway and get a complete parts kit for the lower, and get the standard things and replace with the upgrades for the parts that you want.

I spent the extra on the trigger and grip.

I then got the Midway M4 feed ramp chrome lined barrel in 16" and 1:9 twist. It was under $300 and loves the factory Hornady 53s so much that i haven't even bothered to work up a hand load yet. (based on the 5 shot group below, i have other things that demand my time more)

I guess the simple answer is buy a stripped lower, get a parts list, and buy those things and upgrade the things that are important to you. Midway has a video that makes it stupid simple to do. Then buy a complete and assembled upper. You can get into doing that on your own later, but would advise staying away from upper assembly until you have a lot more knowledge. It's where people get into trouble and have problems.



 
After several builds my advice is to spend money on a good barrel and a good trigger. The rest doesn't have to be anything too fancy. Assembling an upper is easy since it is all milspec. I like the Matrix handguards with no gas tube holes in the barrel nut to line up. Clean everything, lube it up slide the barrel in the upper and tighten and loosen the barrel nut a few time to burnish the threads, torque it to 45 or so ft. lbs and slap the rest of the parts on with hand tools and you are set. It is ridiculously simple given its milspec. I lapped the receiver face on mine and bedded the barrel extension but I am not sure if it really did anything for accuracy but I feel better about it.
 
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+ 1 on what has been said. A GOOD Barrel not cheap barrel and a Good Trigger will go a long way in the accuracy department. Try a Milspec trigger then replace it with a good quality trigger and watch your groups shrink. Buy once cry once. If you can't see it your not gonna hit it. You also need good glass. If you get good glass you will have to put out some extra coin. In the long run the better quality parts will serve you better and make you like your weapon better. I still like my bolt guns but the AR's are growing on me. Several growths now.
 
Originally Posted By: yotekiller47Also, TB-AZ,That is some fine shooting. Wouldn't load either if mine shot like that...

Thank you sir.. It's only possible with the use of a weighted down lead sled, and removing me from the equation.
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Ironically i have 8# jug of XBR for working up loads with that is sitting idle, but don't want to be disappointed by the effort and not be able to get the same results or better (kind of the goal IMO for reloading)

I was testing the rifle after building it, and wanted to see what it would do, not test my shooting. I readily admit to not being able to do that every time. or most of the time.

I do use a 4x12 scope with BDC reticle. I personal find it easier to shoot better groups being able to see it, and focus in closer than a 9 mag. (my eye's aren't as good as others)
 
Do some shopping for your upper...Some come with little applauded, but excellent barrels...A place called JSE Surplus ran some specials of uppers a few years ago that had a "Bull Dog" barrel, one I have never heard about prior...The complete upper was $335 and I have yet to find fault with any part of it..Several vendors have specials on complete lowers and can allow for a complete AR to be had for the neighborhood of $600...

The two critical parts of an AR are the barrel and the trigger group..Personally, I lean to the SS or Chrome Moly barrels with a 1/9 twist rate for a wide variety of bullet weights..You should have really good results with the 53gr...

There are a lot of good quality optics on the market, but I also peruse pawn shops since some take the optics off of firearms so they will fit in their display racks easier...

Below is the JSE upper I picked up and then a target with a group of 17 rapid fire rounds fired at 50 yards...The optic on the rifle was found in a pawn shop for $50 and is a great hunting scope, it's a 2.8-10x...Not a fancy set up, but it works for me...My total cost for upper, lower, and optic was $534...


 
My rifles all love 50 g. Vmax handloads of 25.5 grains of Benchmark. Kind of a fluke but all three shoot the same load under an inch. My 18" WOA barreled upper will shoot 1" groups at 300 yards. There are some really good deals on AR's right now. DPMS has the 16" carbine for $395 with mail in rebate. You could buy that and throw in a trigger for another $100. Try it and see how it shoots then replace the barrel if needed and throw on any kind of free floating hand guard that floats your boat. Sometimes stock DPMS barrels shoot really well though so break it in and try it first! My first AR ever was a Model 1 Sales 20" Hbar ER Shaw barrel and it shot dang near single hole 10 shot groups you could cover with a quarter. I let it go when Obama got elected for almost double what I paid. I figured they would all shoot that well... Misktake! If you keep and eye on the classifieds you can usually pick up a really good barrel for pretty cheap. A lot of people on here change their minds on projects and sell off high dollar parts at really good prices. I got my WOA barrel with gas system from a member here for like $180. You'll see BHW barrels on here to for sale all the time and they are just about a guaranteed shooter. Lots of people follow the fades and want to sell really good 5.56 barrels to build a 6x45 or a 20 practical. There are also complete lowers for sale at PSA for really good prices. Don't be afraid of their "blems" I have yet to receive one out of the four I've ordered that had a single thing wrong with it. I just got a magpul upgraded complete "blem" lower this afternoon that has a MOE grip and STR stock for $149 shipped. Not a single mark or scratch on it... That with a $99 Rock river NM trigger and a set of lighter springs will give you exactly what your looking for. I bought my boy a M4 clone stoner upper from Midway a couple weeks ago for $229 and a Palmetto state blem mil spec lower for $129 shipped. $370 for a complete AR with shipping costs is pretty hard to beat and gives you room for extra parts as needed.

I just threw on a carry handle for now cause I want him to learn to be decent with Irons before I give him a scope.

 
This is just my thoughts. Shop carefully. Consider your first one just a practice run. Anderson stripped upper and lower $70 bucks right now. One of the local dealers here had anderson LPKs with the stainless trigger & hammer for $38 out the door, its easy to get down to a smooth 3# using those. Gander Mnt in town here had brand new Magpul STRs for 47.00 when they were going out of business, bought 4 of them. Build it piece by piece including the upper. You won't save any money over buying one ready to go but you will build what you want. I already had a RR Predator Pursuit but wanted a light weight knock around. Heck for the 420 bucks I have in it I don't where I could buy something like it at any price. I actually like it better than the PP.
 
I jest did a 1/8 and a 1/7 got the glass on both now to the range!! One has an Anderson upper and a Anderson lower I wanted the Anderson because of the NO lube clean up with sop and water the other is a DPMS upper and Anderson lower Timney 31/2 pound the other was a Velocity 3 LB there both are a single stage pull now for some range time!!
 
Take a hard look at Rock River AR's. We have 3 that all shoot 55gr. V-max into 1 ragged hole at 100 meters. (20" Preator Pursuit, 20" Coyote, 18" R-3) I cannot say one bad thing about these rifles, I have never loaded 53gr. V-max since I get dime size groups with the 55's. The Rocks will run over $1000+ but are worth every penny. All 3 guns are topped with Leupold Mark AR scopes. Good luck on whatever you decide to buy.----Riflemann
 
I'm not sure who told you vmaxes won't shoot. I beg to differ, and I shoot a couple thousand a year through various rifles.

You've gotten good advice. Good barrel, quality trigger, AND free float hand guard.

I built my own all from parts and it shoots consistently under .5 moa, but I would agree you should start with an assembled upper unless you do a lot of learning first.

I really like Rock River. My first AR was from them and even with a light barrel and standard hand guard it is a .6-.7 moa gun.
 
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