POI off cold bore suppressed

rtaylor

New member
After extensive time at the range I've come to the conclusion that whoever says cold bore doesn't have a different poi than a warm barrel is wrong. Well at least on my gun. Gun is a Tikka Lite T3x .243 and suppressor is a SAS Resistor. I am consistently low on the first cold shot at 100, 200, and 300 yards. After the first shot my groups are very tight and much higher. I am guessing it is the suppressor more than the gun. Should I just sight in for cold bore and aim low after that?
 
Cold bore makes a big difference. When we design precision rifle matches we almost always include cold bore stages. You would be surprised just how few shooters know what their rifles do when cold.

Sighting in for us usually takes several days. One day to get it generally sighted in. Then a morning or two of cold bore verification and adjustments.

As for where to sight in, depends on just what kind of shooting your going to be doing. If you are using this as a hunting gun, zero at your cold bore. If you are going to be doing a lot of shooting then I would sight in off a warmed barrel.
 
Originally Posted By: rtaylorAfter extensive time at the range I've come to the conclusion that whoever says cold bore doesn't have a different poi than a warm barrel is wrong.

Not only is every rifle different but so is each individual barrel and suppressor. I can go out with all 6 of our 22-250's, 3 heavy contour SS Barrels, and 3 heavy contour Carbon barrels, and have zero cold bore or or first round shift, this is with a rifle that's been sitting for a full day with zero rounds down it. First shots will be in the same hole as all the others. Same goes for all our .223s, 6mm, 260's, 7mm's, 30'cals and 338NM.
However, it does happen to certain platforms I'm not saying it doesn't.
If you look at anything we run, it's has a shorter heavier contour, specifically to eliminate a first round flyer with a suppressor. My buddy had a factory rig that threw the first round, smaller contour barrel, suppressed, and we scrapped that [beeep], made it into a coon club, rebarreled with a heavier contour and eliminated the issue.

I've also had a suppressor do it as well, my first can as a matter of fact, over 10 years ago. An unstaggered keyhole baffle system, QD mount, sent it in to have the QD cut off and converted to direct thread, same issue occurred, first round flyer was 1/2 to 3/4 off the next 4. Can was gone after multiple try's with multiple loads, and multiple rifle platforms being tested...

I don't have time for a rifle or can that throws the first round consistently.
 
Originally Posted By: skinneyOriginally Posted By: rtaylorAfter extensive time at the range I've come to the conclusion that whoever says cold bore doesn't have a different poi than a warm barrel is wrong.

Not only is every rifle different but so is each individual barrel and suppressor. I can go out with all 6 of our 22-250's, 3 heavy contour SS Barrels, and 3 heavy contour Carbon barrels, and have zero cold bore or or first round shift, this is with a rifle that's been sitting for a full day with zero rounds down it. First shots will be in the same hole as all the others. Same goes for all our .223s, 6mm, 260's, 7mm's, 30'cals and 338NM.
However, it does happen to certain platforms I'm not saying it doesn't.
If you look at anything we run, it's has a shorter heavier contour, specifically to eliminate a first round flyer with a suppressor. My buddy had a factory rig that threw the first round, smaller contour barrel, suppressed, and we scrapped that [beeep], made it into a coon club, rebarreled with a heavier contour and eliminated the issue.

I've also had a suppressor do it as well, my first can as a matter of fact, over 10 years ago. An unstaggered keyhole baffle system, QD mount, sent it in to have the QD cut off and converted to direct thread, same issue occurred, first round flyer was 1/2 to 3/4 off the next 4. Can was gone after multiple try's with multiple loads, and multiple rifle platforms being tested...

I don't have time for a rifle or can that throws the first round consistently.

Amen... Life is too short to shoot crap cans or weapons.
smile.gif
I have heard that somewhere before... humm....
 
Couple things that may help is make sure the action screws are tight and I would also consider skim bedding the stock to ensure it's not moving any with the added harmonics. This may or may not help but definitely won't hurt.

As Skinny said each barrel is different, especially with light contour barrels as sometimes they are finicky. My M24 and heavy profile barrels exhibit ZERO cold bore shift with suppressors and I own or have ran every SAS suppressor they make with excellent results. I'm learning to a harmonic issue, especially if it groups good with the can on.
 
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