Flash hider impact on POI

TXMAC

TXMAC

New member
I am currently trying to work through some accuracy issues with my AR15. Spikes tactical lower with a drop in Timney trigger, Stag Arms upper that I just put a Bear Creek Arsenal barrel on. 18" stainless steel heavy barrel with a 1:8 twist. I can't get it to put together a group better than ~3 inches. Off a dead steady rest, bipod and sand bags on a cement shooting bench in calm conditions. Some as bad as 6-8" with the various ammo that I have put through it ranging from 45gr up to 69gr in various forms. Any ideas or suggestions on what could be affecting accuracy? (BCA has a sub MOA @100yds guarantee so I will get it replaced if I can't sort it out)Not supposed to need a break in period but I have put ~100rds through it at this point.

Currently have a thread protector on it. Would a flash hider possibly have an affect?
Have seen some good groups @50yds that opened up @100yds...
Not super experienced with an AR so I am not sure of everything that will have an effect on the accuracy!
 
Possible issues:
Crown has a ding in it
Burr somewhere near the gas port inside the barrel (likely worn away by now)
Barrel not torqued on to correct specs
Loose scope base, rings, etc
Defective scope
 
I thought I had an issue with my first AR that came with a 3/4" guarantee. Wasn't getting groups as bad as yours, but after trying four different boattail bullets, with loads from three powders, best I could do was 1 1/8" with the rest 1 1/4"-1 3/8". I was ready to send it back, but tried two flat based bullets first, 55grsp, 60gr vmax. Both loads were in the .4" range. It was an eye opener for me as I have never had my bolt rifles be so picky on bullet choice. You might want to try something along those lines if you haven't yet. A real benefit to me was the most accurate load is with the most inexpensive bullet, Hornady 55grsp, at about 10 cents each.
 
Originally Posted By: HereticPossible issues:
Crown has a ding in it
Burr somewhere near the gas port inside the barrel (likely worn away by now)
Barrel not torqued on to correct specs
Loose scope base, rings, etc
Defective scope

+1 for loose barrel, loose scope/mount, bad scope.

A flash hider wouldn't correct issues that bad. Can a muzzle brake effect accuracy, yes. But not correcting inches. A miss-installed brake/flash hider could cause poor accuracy, but not the other way around.

Maybe try mounting another optic set up on it and see what happens. I once had one of my favorite AR's lose it's grouping and it turned out that the scope had broken inside. I could just barely hear a tinkling noise when I shook it. Took quite a few years but it happened.
 
I don't think the scope/bases are an issue as it was putting together 2" groups consistently with the 16" barrel I had on there previously and I have not noticed anything when checking them. Just thought I could do better with a better barrel! Was going to try the flash hider first and then go for the barrel torque, just wondered if there might be anything tricky that I was inexperienced with! I will look more in depth at the scope, rings and bases as well. It is a Burris Fullfield II by the way so if there is an issue there, they will take care of it. I appreciate the input!
 
I do know for a fact that LaRue type mounts need to be torqued in the sequence bottom screws first, then top of rings.
Just like the manufacture says.
Don't ask me how I know.
 
Using factory ammo or reloads? I've got a Bear Creek barrel also on one of mine. It is short throated... shoots good if you keep them off the lands. But factory ammo was jammed on mine. Might be worth checking.
 
Originally Posted By: tj66Using factory ammo or reloads? I've got a Bear Creek barrel also on one of mine. It is short throated... shoots good if you keep them off the lands. But factory ammo was jammed on mine. Might be worth checking.

Very good observation and suggestion. I have found that chambering can be a big issue with barrels. One would think that a reputable mfg wouldn't have these issues but...
 
It is chambered in the .223 Wylde and I have been shooting factory ammo. I have not had a chance to get back to the range in the last 2 weeks but that is a good suggestion to be checked. I will have to find a gunsmith to get that checked out! Or would I be able to see that with markings on the bullet if I chambered it and removed it without firing?
 
You would see rifling marks on the bullet if it is touching the grooves and lands when the round is chambered.

You could also check your cartridge OAL before and after chambering. I have seen competition shooters who loaded their rounds too long push the bullet deeper into the case when the round chambered. In one case, one competitors rounds were so long that it failed to fire and when he pulled the charging handle back, the bullet stayed in the chamber and the rifle jammed when it tried to chamber the next round.
 
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