I've got a serious problem with rabbits eating my garden every year. I'm in the middle of a neighborhood so it limits the methods of killing them. I have a 6 foot privacy fence around the back yard and there are a couple of places that they are coming under. Last year I tried a trap but they were too smart for it so I ran a few snares. Every time the snare would be closed up the size of a dime with no rabbit. How are they getting out? Any snaring advice would be greatly appreciated.
Snaring rabbits
- Thread starter rtaylor
- Start date
spotstalkshoot
Well-known member
If they are going under a fence the rabbit bellies under with front feet in front of its head. If the loop is to low they push a foot through and throw the snare. Rabbits go under my chain link fence and I snare them by using a loop that covers the top half of the opening. I use a thin light wire and just put a slip loop in the end a bend in the wire holds the loop size.
Originally Posted By: rtaylorI've got a serious problem with rabbits eating my garden every year. I'm in the middle of a neighborhood so it limits the methods of killing them. I have a 6 foot privacy fence around the back yard and there are a couple of places that they are coming under. Last year I tried a trap but they were too smart for it so I ran a few snares. Every time the snare would be closed up the size of a dime with no rabbit. How are they getting out? Any snaring advice would be greatly appreciated.
If legal get couple of duke 155 or 160 conibear traps and let them slide through them.. under 10$ at fnt post.. Dan
If legal get couple of duke 155 or 160 conibear traps and let them slide through them.. under 10$ at fnt post.. Dan
SlickerThanSnot
New member
Originally Posted By: Catdog1Ive used the small cage traps but i bury all but the opening. They will usually go in it easier. Bury it at about a 45° angle.
most cage traps are made out of wire. how do you bury one of them and still have it work?
most cage traps are made out of wire. how do you bury one of them and still have it work?
SlickerThanSnot
New member
seems like a whole lot of work for a dumb rabbit.
Edward Charette
New member
Originally Posted By: rtaylorI've got a serious problem with rabbits eating my garden every year. I'm in the middle of a neighborhood so it limits the methods of killing them. I have a 6 foot privacy fence around the back yard and there are a couple of places that they are coming under. Last year I tried a trap but they were too smart for it so I ran a few snares. Every time the snare would be closed up the size of a dime with no rabbit. How are they getting out? Any snaring advice would be greatly appreciated.
Often people give up snaring thinking, it’s simply impossible for them. True, rabbit snare is a tricky business and normal folks give up after a few attempts.
The best-known way is to place a “snare wire” in the natural path of the rabbit, easy to find the track or trail. As the bunny hops in it, the wire tightens around it.
But getting it right is very important and check for chances where the wire loop is knocked over by the wind or the bunny jumping under or over the snare.
There are three types of legal snares. The free-standing loop, the static loop and the hoop snare. Like the squirrel removal squirrel removal experts say, getting the right height and in just the right place requires skill.
Though people might suggest you use your hands as a scale of size, the only size you should consider should be 6 and a half inches from the bottom of the loop to the floor. Make your loops 7.5 inches wide so that the loop goes over and under the rabbit’s ears and chin. No need to smell mask your trap, but avoid any unnatural smell. Check the trap often to reset and not miss a chance.
Leave them all night and for the early hours of the morning. Set your snare traps between the hops so that the rabbit’s neck enters the loop before/after it hops. Target for beats, tracks and paths. Set the peg right, so that it won’t come out easy and nice.
Often people give up snaring thinking, it’s simply impossible for them. True, rabbit snare is a tricky business and normal folks give up after a few attempts.
The best-known way is to place a “snare wire” in the natural path of the rabbit, easy to find the track or trail. As the bunny hops in it, the wire tightens around it.
But getting it right is very important and check for chances where the wire loop is knocked over by the wind or the bunny jumping under or over the snare.
There are three types of legal snares. The free-standing loop, the static loop and the hoop snare. Like the squirrel removal squirrel removal experts say, getting the right height and in just the right place requires skill.
Though people might suggest you use your hands as a scale of size, the only size you should consider should be 6 and a half inches from the bottom of the loop to the floor. Make your loops 7.5 inches wide so that the loop goes over and under the rabbit’s ears and chin. No need to smell mask your trap, but avoid any unnatural smell. Check the trap often to reset and not miss a chance.
Leave them all night and for the early hours of the morning. Set your snare traps between the hops so that the rabbit’s neck enters the loop before/after it hops. Target for beats, tracks and paths. Set the peg right, so that it won’t come out easy and nice.
What about chicken wire bent in 3/4 outside of the fence.
Take the wire and bend it up so that the height is more than a bunny. nail it to the fence. then take that extra and lay it out in front of the fence. They will come in and try and dig down. it won't work and the wire will stop them. Best if you cover the wire laying on the ground.
The other option is to figure out where they are coming in, and make that easier. to limit the paths. Put in a pipe to allow them in and put a one way door on it and cage on the back of it. Then you have a nice trap to provide fresh meat.
Take the wire and bend it up so that the height is more than a bunny. nail it to the fence. then take that extra and lay it out in front of the fence. They will come in and try and dig down. it won't work and the wire will stop them. Best if you cover the wire laying on the ground.
The other option is to figure out where they are coming in, and make that easier. to limit the paths. Put in a pipe to allow them in and put a one way door on it and cage on the back of it. Then you have a nice trap to provide fresh meat.