Product review: Wipe out and Wipe out Accelerator

Another long time user of Accelerator and Wipe Out. Generally do a patch then bronze brush with a Montana/Kroil mix first, but lately have found that KG 1 from KG Industries works better. Then I go to the Wipe Out products.
The last step I do will really flip Ackleyman out...............I use a colloidal graphite on a couple of patches. I swear that if used on a new clean barrel you get almost zero copper when you clean. I use it on my factory used barrels also and it quickens the barrel cleaning with Wipe Out.
 
Had heard about using lock ease from the BR guys for years and years. But I only started using the colloidal graphite about fifteen years ago, when Greg Tannel talked me into trying it. But I've been a believer ever since. Greg used to have his own stuff, not sure if he still does, but lock ease seems to work just fine. Greg's stuff definitely has more graphite in it though. One patch is all I've ever used, as the last step.

- DAA
 
Yes, I am flipped out! Great for an old dog to learn new tricks! I am actually pretty excited about the soaking now. Neighbor and I have our own 300 yd rifle range, we shoot a LOT, and I clean his guns also because his nose is as good as a blood hound...he has to leave a restaurant when a woman comes in wearing perfume.

I have been pushing a patch with lighter fluid down the barrel after the Montana Extreme Copper Killer, then a patch of Lock Eze. I have also treated my barrels with Eezox, that worked well also.

I order contoured barrels with 5" of straight on the breach end, this will allow me to get at least 2 chambers on the barrel, and often a third. Cleaning rod wear becomes in issue if you have a loose fitting cleaning rod in your bore guide. So, I am hoping to find a process to eliminate as many strokes with a cleaning rod as possible.
 
I called and talked with Sharp Shoot R today and ended up ordering some accelerator, patch out, and tactical advantage they were great to talk to and deal with.
 
First barrel I worked on was a very smooth Rem ss 270. Next I am working on is a older 22/250 Douglas Barrel on a Springfield action, benchrest rifle from the 1950's. Someone built the rifle, then it sat in a closet for years, unfired. Has a nice Walnut stock on it, 30" straight tube.

Load for this 22/250 is 37g of N140 and 55's(pick), one hole groups with 55 Bergers. So, I fired 70 rounds, first 24hr soaking with accelerator and Wipe out foam, and there is still powder fouling in the barrel. This barrel has a slight amount of fire cracking. We are now on our 2nd 24 hr soak, will check around noon today.

Ok, after the second 24 hr soak, there is still considerable powder fouling in the barrel. So, the accelerator and foam is not working like I hoped with 70 rounds down the tube. Back to brushing with a bronze bristle brush.

The copper fouling appears to be gone, so the addition of a good brushing is what is needed to get the carbon out. I will keep playing and see what happens with a brushing with the foam on the brush.
 
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When i soak for extended periods of time i rotate the gun when i can and try and keep the barrel level,the wipe out will soak to the low side of the barrel.Dont know if its faster seems to soften everything up a little better especially the carbon black/brown crud.
 
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This stuff is not cutting the carbon at all, even in the bottom. In my 270, the barrel cleaned up fine with win 760 powder. This N140 may burn so hot, that it really cooks the carbon on, I found this to be true with N133 in a 223 AI. The barrel has powder fouling in it pretty heavy for 20" of the 30" length.
So much for a Genie in a foam can.
 
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I am going to soak with Montana Extreme Bore solvent, it is oil based and will not hurt the bore.

This barrel that I am working on is a very old Douglas barrel made by old Man Douglas himself. You can see very faint drill marks all the way down the barrel from end to end, but they did lap smooth. Some powders may clean up a lot easier than others. I noticed this about R#15 that has 20% DNT in it, makes it burn real hot and clean as a rule.

I was hoping to turn off my brain and just soak and patch out, which is not going to happen.
 
I have had same results with the foam cleaners, Keith. They (foam) do not seem to cut powder fowling/carbon nearly as well as copper. I have gone to brushing bore w/Hoppes Benchrest and letting that sit a while to soften powder fowling. May repeat depending upon dry patch. Then I proceed w/the foam to work on the copper. I let mine sit overnight w/the foam and repeat as necessary. My factory tubes obviously require more TLC than a good target barrel.

Regards,
Clarence
 
Yep, sounds like it may be a challenge. Had an old A3 Springfield like that. Looked like the drill picked up a chip about 2 or 3" from the muzzle and cut "threads" all the way out. Shot surprisingly well, but was a real challenge to get clean; it was a copper magnet.

Regards,
Clarence
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanThis stuff is not cutting the carbon at all, even in the bottom. In my 270, the barrel cleaned up fine with win 760 powder. This N140 may burn so hot, that it really cooks the carbon on, I found this to be true with N133 in a 223 AI. The barrel has powder fouling in it pretty heavy for 20" of the 30" length.
So much for a Genie in a foam can.

That's the reason I use KG 1 Carbon Remover first then Wipe Out next. Montana Extreme with Kroil in it down the barrel first works also, just not as well as KG 1.
 
I alternate Wipeout and either Hoppes Elite, or MPro 7 when I clean. The Wipeout for the copper, obviously, and the other for the carbon. Lots of time I let them soak for hours or even days at a time.May try some Slip2000 on the carbon next time around. Seems like the crud about comes off in layers, copper then carbon, back and forth. I don't have a borescope, but the guns sure shoot better afterwards. Never have tried the graphite, but sounds like I should give it a go.
 
Just had good conversation with Terry at Sharp Shoot R. I've been losing some accuracy and having a heck of a time getting my barrel clean with conventional methods. Excited about giving it a try. I did ask him specifically about some of the comments here, but I felt assured by his answers. I'll let you know what results I get. BTW ordered patchout and accelerator.
 
This old Douglas barrel has minor fire cracking for 12", thus this gives the powder something to adhere to. I went at it again with a vengeance today. The barrel had been soaking for 24 hours in Montana Extreme bore solvent. Patched it out, then bore scoped, and this did nothing for that cooked on powder fouling.

Next, I used a bronze bristle brush, applied JB, brushed till the brush wore out, which took about 20 strokes. Bore scoped the barrel, and this got a bunch of powder fouling out. Still some left, then repeated the same with 10 more strokes, The barrel looked pretty good at this point.

Now that I have it down to bare metal, will be interesting to see what the pure Wipe accelerator with foam will do with just soaking. The Wipe out and accelerator worked like a charm on my SS 270 after 70 shots, but the barrel is in pristine condition.

Also, will have to add some KG1 on the Midway "Cart" to try.

Here is my conclusion so far, the Wipe out will work well under normal conditions. Wipe out did get all the copper out of this barrel on the first soaking. When bores are neglected or bores are in rough shape, this is when you need to use other methods. I had been giving this old Douglas barrel about 5 strokes with a brush, then Montana Extreme Copper Killer, and never scoped the bore...boy, what a mistake that was. Brushing with JB is an extreme Cure to remove the powder fouling, and obviously my 5 stroke brushing with regular bore solvent was not good enough over the past year, with about 70 rounds on the bore in between cleanings. This powder fouling is obviously an accumulation over hundreds of rounds and incomplete cleanings.

This old Douglas barrel will shoot less than 1/2" groups at 200 yards with many loads, amazing considering just how rough the bore is.

I am thankful to have good ole JB, and there is no evidence of scratches in the bore from brushing with JB, you just wear out a new brush real quick. That Lyman Bore scope with it's 25x magnification lets you see everything up close and personal right on that little TV screen, best $180 I have ever spent.
 
This old Douglas barrel has minor fire cracking for 12", thus this gives the powder something to adhere to. I went at it again with a vengeance today. The barrel had been soaking for 24 hours in Montana Extreme bore solvent. Patched it out, then bore scoped, and this did nothing for that cooked on powder fouling.

Next, I used a bronze bristle brush, applied JB, brushed till the brush wore out, which took about 20 strokes. Bore scoped the barrel, and this got a bunch of powder fouling out. Still some left, then repeated the same with 10 more strokes, The barrel looked pretty good at this point.

Now that I have it down to bare metal, will be interesting to see what the pure Wipe accelerator with foam will do with just soaking. The Wipe out and accelerator worked like a charm on my SS 270 after 70 shots, but the barrel is in pristine condition.

Also, will have to add some KG1 on the Midway "Cart" to try.

Here is my conclusion so far, the Wipe out will work well under normal conditions. Wipe out did get all the copper out of this barrel on the first soaking. When bores are neglected or bores are in rough shape, this is when you need to use other methods. I had been giving this old Douglas barrel about 5 strokes with a brush, then Montana Extreme Copper Killer, and never scoped the bore...boy, what a mistake that was. Brushing with JB is an extreme Cure to remove the powder fouling, and obviously my 5 stroke brushing with regular bore solvent was not good enough over the past year, with about 70 rounds on the bore in between cleanings. This powder fouling is obviously an accumulation over hundreds of rounds and incomplete cleanings.

This old Douglas barrel will shoot less than 1/2" groups at 200 yards with many loads, amazing considering just how rough the bore is.

I am thankful to have good ole JB, and there is no evidence of scratches in the bore from brushing with JB, you just wear out a new brush real quick. That Lyman Bore scope with it's 25x magnification lets you see everything up close and personal right on that little TV screen, best $180 I have ever spent.

This type of fouling is representative of fouling that you may have on a decent day of p. dog shooting.

 
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An update on the Bore Coat I applied on my rough 204; it did nothing that I can tell. The 10 curing shots left copious amounts of copper.

I was chatting with a local who does quite a lot of gunsmithing. He swears that guys have ruined their bores by soaking with foaming cleaners longer than 15 minutes. Saw it with the bore scope. He believes there is ammonia in them. I have seen no mention of this anywhere else so am skeptical. The can of Gunslick brand I have says soak 15 to 30 minutes. It makes no mention of soaking longer or any harm associated with doing so.
 
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