Best .223 scope zero

BleedsBlue

New member
I recently replaced my scope and Just got back from the gun range (25 yard indoors).

The scope manufacture recommended a 100 yard zero for the bdc holdover yet I cannot find a ballistic chart supporting the reticle.

So rather than using a 100 yard zero I'm probably going to use a 50 or 200 zero to eliminate the need for a holdover as I usually do.

Just wanted some feedback of what you think would be the best zero for my setup. Or do you think I should start using the BDC?

Here's the setup:
Ruger American .223
Fiochhi 40 grain
Hornady V-max
BC .200
3650 fps
Minox zv3-9x50 BDC 400
 
The scope's reticle won't match your load anyways, so it's only useful as a general reference.

For 223 40 Vmax try a 150 yard zero. Compare different zero's on JBM or another ballistic calculator. 150 shoots pretty flat at reasonable hunting distances.
 
You can still use the BDC feature. Just put your particulars in and see where it goes.

http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.html#:5
 
With my 40's i go dead on at 50, it is also dead on at 200. When i shoot my 70-75grs. I go dead on at 75, which is back dead on at 125.
 
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With a 100 yard zero you will be 23.5 inches low at 400. Divide the drop by 4 to get high value at 100. If after zero at 100 you put the 400 yard reticle on the bull at 100, your 100 yard crosshair should be 5.875 inches above 100 zero. If less turn scope power down until 5.875 inches between crosshairs(that is you required power for 400), or raise or lower poi of 100 yard zero to establish the 5.875 inches. Altering the 100 yard poi will require leaving the scope on highest power position. This should save you some ammo generating data to customize your reticle chart.
 
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Why do folks say the BDC "won't work" with a particular load? (It's funny you never hear that mil-dots "won't work".) It's the same principle. You just have to play with the zoom to find at what power your load lines up with the reticle's graduations. I have a Monarch on a 700 BDL-DM .280. Sighted it dead on at 100 yards. Checked it at 250, holding between the 200- and 300-yard circles, put one right in a 2" bullseye. Checked it on a 13" circular gong at 400, rang it first time (not perfectly centered, but not on the edge either).

As to .223 zero, I used to zero mine at 250, simply because I have a permanent target 250 yards from my front porch. I figured that would be pretty good for anything I'd need. Until I saw a groundhog in my Dad's garden, about 90 yards from my front door. I put the crosshairs right between his eyes...and proceeded to shoot right over his head, as it was about 2.75-3" high at that range. Now (other than the one wearing a BCD), I zero 3/4" high at 100, yielding it dead on at about 150.
 
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Nikon has their spot on app that you can put your load data in and it spits out the BDC info.
I use FFP scopes now and print out a drop chart. its alot easier to deal with than worrying about what power the zoom ring is on.
 
Since I have several rifles with several different scopes and brands, I use a Ballistic App on my phone. I plug in each rifle, each scope, each bullet, and each detail concerning weather etc... what I get is a chart and reticle to match the current conditions. Couple that with a rangefinder and you got yourself a take the guesswork out of it type setup.

v/r,

kevin
 
I use 100yds.Shots are mostly between 50-150.Very few places I hunt are open enough to see anything beyond 250 even with the snow.
 
I zero all mine at 200yds. That puts me close to 1" high at 100yds with many different loads. I hold dead on 0-200yds. Past that its hold overs or start cranking.
 
Originally Posted By: born2climbWhy do folks say the BDC "won't work" with a particular load? (It's funny you never hear that mil-dots "won't work".) It's the same principle.

No, its really not...
 
They will work just fine if you know the spacing of the reticle on the zoom power you are goin to use. Thats one of the main reasons i went to First Focal Plane scopes.
 
I set my MPBR to where the bullet neither rises or drops below 2" in flight. This allows you to hold center on your target out to MPBR. Beyond the MPBR the BDC reticle can be used for longer shots if needed.
 
Originally Posted By: liliysdadOriginally Posted By: born2climbWhy do folks say the BDC "won't work" with a particular load? (It's funny you never hear that mil-dots "won't work".) It's the same principle.

No, its really not...

Pray tell then how it differs?

Well, I guess it's different in that mil-dot scopes come with the tiny screwdriver for moving the dots around, whereas the BDC reticle is "fixed" and the markings can't be moved.

The difference is in that mil-dots are equally spaced, and the BDC markings are graduated, but BOTH require a bit of cognizance on the part of the shooter. I just checked my Bushnell Elite 6500 with mil-dot...at 400 yards, on 16x, the third dot down (what folks call the 400-yard dot), is approximately 3' above the target. On 2.5x, it's approximately 12' above the target. Just sticking a mil-dot scope OR BDC scope on your rifle doesn't mean you can just point-and-shoot at any range. So YES, the principle is the SAME....it's up to the SHOOTER to sort it out. Different zooms yield different results.
 
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I use the bdc app on my phone. I zeroed my rifle at 200 and endered my load into the program. It will tell you what yardage each circle is...and it changes with magnification. Its pretty slick...and normally right on the money.
 
Originally Posted By: born2climbOriginally Posted By: liliysdadOriginally Posted By: born2climbWhy do folks say the BDC "won't work" with a particular load? (It's funny you never hear that mil-dots "won't work".) It's the same principle.

No, its really not...

Pray tell then how it differs?

Well, I guess it's different in that mil-dot scopes come with the tiny screwdriver for moving the dots around, whereas the BDC reticle is "fixed" and the markings can't be moved.

The difference is in that mil-dots are equally spaced, and the BDC markings are graduated, but BOTH require a bit of cognizance on the part of the shooter. I just checked my Bushnell Elite 6500 with mil-dot...at 400 yards, on 16x, the third dot down (what folks call the 400-yard dot), is approximately 3' above the target. On 2.5x, it's approximately 12' above the target. Just sticking a mil-dot scope OR BDC scope on your rifle doesn't mean you can just point-and-shoot at any range. So YES, the principle is the SAME....it's up to the SHOOTER to sort it out. Different zooms yield different results.

What scope does this?
 
The only way to know for sure is with some practical range work with your specific loads...It's fine to start with a dead on setting for a specific bullet weight and powder charge, but any change in either requires more range work...This is true whether using the BDC or MilDot reticle...

Years ago, I worked up specific loads for each caliber and rifle, and once documented, I have never changed them...Temperature and elevation may cause a quarter inch difference at 100 yards, but that's close enough for most hunting purposes..
 
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