RCBS Charge Master users

Tim Neitzke

New member
I think I know the answer,but I'm asking anyway....

Have not been at the loading bench much in the last year and a half. Just a little bit here and there. About 100% less than I'd like.

Anyway....
I normally do load work in late spring early summer when it's more humid and hot. This past week or so, I've made a few rounds up and noticed the weight of my powder pan is less than in the spring. Normally it runs 140.4 - 140.5gr ,IIRC. Lately it's been 139.2 - 139.6 gr.
Is this just because of air density (humidity ) ?

Just want to confirm my thoughts.

Thanks
 
Not Trump ?
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Tim, do you leave your scale turned on all the time or do you turn it off when not in use?

I have two digital scales, the one attached to my Chargemaster and a Dillon D-Terminator, I leave them both turned on all the time, they never get turned off. Before I started leaving them on all the time, they would give inconsistent readings for the first 30-45 minutes. Kind of like they needed to warm up before the settled down. Once I started leaving them turned on all the time, no more issues.
 
I turn it off.

In the past I never noticed any changes from start to finish. I don't nearly use it enough to leave it on.

Interesting......

Last week when I used it, the tare weight was back and forth a couple tenths after it had been on for a little while.

Just want to make sure it's not going wacky on me.
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Tim, you need to get another extension cord so you can leave it turned on all the time.

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I knew that was coming...
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More info...

My normal method:
I'll turn it on when I first get started. If it sat more than a couple months I'll calibrate it, then zero it out.

Put powder in.

Run a few test charges

Then get to loading
 
You should calibrate it every time you use it. Mine sat for several months and when I used it recently it would drift when first turned on. Once I calibrated it the drifting stopped and after a few uses the drifting stopped when I first turned it on and it works normally again. I think I just needed to knock the rust off so to speak.
 
My RCBS scale is the old style that was made by Pact. Still works great, but it says in the instructions to let it warm up for at least 30 minutes. And to calibrate it at that point. My friend with the newer one like you have said it doesn't mention either of those things for it, but I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea anyway?
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Tim,
My CM and another digital scale both stay on all the time, and they are both on a surge protector.

X2 Mine are setup the same and have been left turned on for years.

I've read where some believe fluorescent lights mess with digital scales but I don't have fluorescent lighting in my gun room so I have no first hand knowledge of this.
 
I was having major issues with inconsistent charge throws with my chargemaster. As I was troubleshooting I called RCBS and asked them about warming up the unit, they said it is not needed. The guy mentioned they get a lot of calls from people asking this same question. Sounds like maybe the older units needed it but has since been perpetuated on the Internet that ALL need it now. My problem ended up being a bad lot of units and they identified it immediately upon giving them the serial number.

This doesn't exactly address the OPs question but I thought it was worth sharing since I spoke to RCBS directly about allowing the unit to warm up, not just something I read somewhere, and it has come up in this post.
 
I had an RCBS scale that started fluctuating and wouldn't stay zeroed. I finally bounced it off the floor a couple times and never had the problem again. Went back to my balance beams.
 
Originally Posted By: Redleg84Are your weighed charges consistent between the two time periods?



Don't know. 2 diff loads for diff calibers.

Don't have flo lights either.

You guys that leave them on, how often do you use them ?

Sounds like I don't need to warm it up ?

Bouncing it off the floor is not an option..lol

Thanks

 
Originally Posted By: B23Originally Posted By: fw707Tim,
My CM and another digital scale both stay on all the time, and they are both on a surge protector.

X2 Mine are setup the same and have been left turned on for years.

I've read where some believe fluorescent lights mess with digital scales but I don't have fluorescent lighting in my gun room so I have no first hand knowledge of this.


it can depend on the type of lighting.


older fixtures with t12 lamps in them (the big fat 1.5" buggers) were commonly run with magnetic ballasts that were very lightly (if at all) shielded. newer fixtures are run by electronic ballasts. This includes the t8 (1" lamps) and t5 (5/8" lamps), as well as the curly CFL bulbs.

i suspect it was the magnetic fields generated by these older shop light fixtures that caused the variation in charge weights. additonally i also suspect that is less common of an issue as folks upgrade to newer lighting - especially LED's.

i used to run mine right under a electronic ballast T5 fixture and never expierenced any significant (within the general tolerances of the chargemaster itself) difference in how my chargemaster dispensed charges.

Quote:Electronic Ballasts
Electronic ballasts alter the flow of electricity in the light bulb by using a series of induction coils that are separated from one another. They also change the frequency of the electrical current without changing the voltage. While magnetic ballasts in fluorescent lamps work at a frequency of 60hz, electronic ballasts greatly increase that frequency to 20,000hz.

Due to the very high frequency, you will not see the lights flickering and will not hear a buzzing sound from fluorescent lamps using electronic ballasts.

Magnetic Ballasts
In contrast to the multiple induction coils on the electronic type, magnetic ballasts only use one single coil. These ballasts can be located inside your light sockets between the plug for the light bulb and the power chord.


In magnetic ballasts, current flows through coils of copper wire before moving on to the light bulb. When the copper is exposed to the current, it generates a magnetic field that captures most of the current that might have continued to flow. In this way, it regulates the electricity in that only small increments actually continue onward to the light bulb.

The current that is passed on depends on the thickness and the length of the copper coil. This inconsistent flow of the current is what causes the lights of the lamp to flicker and also creates the buzzing sound.
 
My room has nothing but LED lights in it now. Turn off dehumidifier, leave CM on 24/7, and double check the scale with check weight before I use it each time.
 
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