primer pocket crimp removal

kooman

Member
I'm going to get something to remove the crimp on 223 brass and I'm not sure what way to go. I don't do a lot of crimp brass so I cant see spending too much money on it but I want something that works well. I'm torn between the rcbs press mounted swager and the rcbs cutter to go on my case prep center. Any input would be appreciated as to which way to go. thanks
 
I would have said the Dillon but that's not worth it unless you going to do lots. For a few I'd get a RCBS/Hornady cutter and put it in a cordless drill. I do that with my Hornady cutter when I'm only doing a few and don't want to switch my Dillon over.
 
I don't know anything about the cutter, but the press-mounted swager works great.
Just make sure you set it up correctly the first time or you'll be calling RCBS for a new adjustment rod.
 
Dillon is top drawer, but I have used RCBS to great success but it is slower.

Std case mouth deburring tool can work, but if you are deburring thousand or so, a good tool can be appreciated. I intended to use my Dillon on a thousand pieces but it works so well, I will never sell it.
 
I have used the RCBS swager since 1985...it works perfectly and as posted fits any press that will take a regular standard style snap in shell holder.
 
Originally Posted By: Yote NewbI would have said the Dillon but that's not worth it unless you going to do lots. For a few I'd get a RCBS/Hornady cutter and put it in a cordless drill.

Pretty much what I do. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-VLD-Inside-Chamfer-Tool/dp/B001OPNR7I and just unscrew the blade part of it out of the handle and put it in my Dewalt. I ream out the primer hole in a box of 50 in about 5 minutes. And like what the others said, only has to be done once.

I used not even pick up brass that had crimped primers. Since discovering how easy to "uncrimp" the primer pocket is I now have thousands of rounds of it.
 
Originally Posted By: ackleymanDillon is top drawer, but I have used RCBS to great success but it is slower.

Std case mouth deburring tool can work, but if you are deburring thousand or so, a good tool can be appreciated. I intended to use my Dillon on a thousand pieces but it works so well, I will never sell it.

+1 Swaged thousands of 7.62 & 30-06 cases when shooting competition; no so much any more, but it don't eat much and has a permanent place on my bench for the few .223's I do today.

Regards,
hm
 
Originally Posted By: koomandoes the rcbs swager fit the hornady press?

it will fit a standard single stage press, but wont work on a progressive.

if you have the LNL AP and want to swage, you'll have to drop the extra $ for their press mounted swaging system. Unfortunately due to its design, its not conducive to running with a case feeder.

however, like doing it on a single stage - crimp removal is a one time operation for the life of your brass.

dont forget a set of primer pocket gauges if you're new to swaging so you dont over do it and ruin your precious brass!

https://ballistictools.com/store/swage-gage-small-primer-pocket

hth
 
Like Rusty I just use a vld chamfer tool. I did a 5 gal bucket of 30-06 this way. I use it on my Hornady case prep trio tool. Do a couple hundred a night while watching tv to avoid hand cramps.
 
Originally Posted By: 204 ARLike Rusty I just use a vld chamfer tool. I did a 5 gal bucket of 30-06 this way. I use it on my Hornady case prep trio tool. Do a couple hundred a night while watching tv to avoid hand cramps.


X2
 
I use the RCBS bench mounted swager, some may say its slower, but once I get in a rhythm it goes fast enough for me. I'm retied so time isn't an issue anymore. But it is a "one and done" process.


Here Kitty Kitty
 
I'm kinda new to this crimped primer thing, on identifying crimped vs. standard, would there be a difference in diameter if a caliper is used to check the pocket?
 
Originally Posted By: koomanI'm kinda new to this crimped primer thing, on identifying crimped vs. standard, would there be a difference in diameter if a caliper is used to check the pocket?

Yes, after removing crimp large pockets measure .209-.210" and small .172-.173"; they'll be .001-.002" smaller before crimp removed.

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php

Regards,
hm
 
Originally Posted By: hm1996Originally Posted By: koomanI'm kinda new to this crimped primer thing, on identifying crimped vs. standard, would there be a difference in diameter if a caliper is used to check the pocket?

Yes, after removing crimp large pockets measure .209-.210" and small .172-.173"; they'll be .001-.002" smaller before crimp removed.

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php

Regards,
hm

And the crimp is usually a very visible ring around the edge of the primer pocket.
 
this is what a crimped pocket usually looks like
hqdefault.jpg


sometimes you'll find them stab crimped too

the two on the right have been reamed out to remove the crimps
148275_4d6712024a1119969a962d8abfd23c14.jpg



one of the problems as noted with using a non crimp specific reamer is the ability to over ream the pocket hole and cause premature failure of your brass due to the pockets becoming too loose earlier than normal. This can also happen when over swaging, which is why i recommended the primer pocket gauge in my earlier post.

i've removed crimps with several methods, including using my deburring tool, a RCBS military crimp remover (a reamer specific for it) and swaging. I prefer swaging as its the least hand cramping method, makes no mess in the process of doing it, and doesnt actually remove anything from around the pocket, just "stretches" it back to normal dimensions.

HTH
 
PlantOne is spot on swaging is better if possible... reaming is slow and tends to be short lived brass if slightly over done.
I do quite a bit of .223 but last large batch of .308 I had I mailed to a friend who has an automated Dillon 1050 with swager and called in my favor.
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