Savage triggers

A

ALPHABURNER

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I just picked up a model 12 low profile in 243 and sold my 10 predator to a buddy. He's having a problem that I never noticed. Any side pressure on the acutrigger makes it screw up. Found a lot of articles about this problem. My dealer says Savage will not sell trigger assembly, and timney says nobody makes a trigger for the predator. They say it's a narrower assembly than the others. Anybody know much about this?
 
Might could call sharpshooter supply and talk to them they could have some options. He deals heavily in savage aftermarket parts
 
I get called down quite often for making WAG's but I going out on a limb and saying that I don't think Savage made a different trigger for the Model 10. Still, you might call Savage or Timney or Rifle Basix and see if they agree with your dealer. I have a book that came with a RB trigger I just bought. The Sav-1 fits 112,12,10,11,114,116. Sav-1 will fit the Axis and Edge and works with the Accustock and rifles with bottom bolt release. Sav-2 will NOT work with Accustock and rifles with bottom bolt release. This is information from the book that came with my trigger.
 
I have several model 10's/12's. They all take the same triggers between them. Can get a Sharps shooters or Rifle Basix's. Both are nice triggers. If you want a Sharps shooters I buy mine from tactical works.com Have it in a couple of days. Sharps Shooters supply are pretty well known for being extremely slow.
 
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Just a suggestion:
If you can still shoot the Predator without malfunction, all you need
to do is teach your friend the correct method of pulling back on an
AccuTrigger.
 
The trigger is doing what it was designed to do. The center tab is supposed to block the rifle from firing when the trigger is pulled without the tab being pressed and it is doing so. The primary issue comes from guys with large hands that wrap their fingers around the trigger and contact the trigger body before pulling back the tab. I know two friends of mine who struggle with an Accutrigger.
 
Quote:My dealer says Savage will not sell trigger assembly, and timney says nobody makes a trigger for the predator.
Savage will sell trigger parts as replacement items. All you need is the serial number of the rifle. I once had to replace the light trigger spring in my Max-1. Savage sold me a five pack of varmint accutrigger springs. I wonder what I should do with all of those springs?
 
I just compared a 16 Weather Warrior, 11 LWH and a 10 Predator and they are identical - bottom bolt release DBM. Rifle Basix is the only aftermarket trigger available for these that I know of.
 
This may sound stupid but i had a buddy that had one that wouldn't fire from time to time and it was because the trigger setting was turned down to low. It apparently has a internal safety for that. Turned up the trigger pull weight and no more problems. Just a thought I was throwing out there.
 
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Originally Posted By: ALPHABURNER Any side pressure on the acutrigger makes it screw up.

Edit to add - before posting my reply below I didn't read the whole thread and now see the poster just above also had the same issue...

What do you mean by "screw up"?

I had an issue with a savage trigger in a model 12. I would go to pull the trigger and if I hit the side of it the trigger felt like it would go off. The round would not fire but the trigger would disengage and I would have to cycle the bolt in order to fire the round. As it turned out I had the accu-trigger set too light, I was at the far extreme of the adjustment. I slightly turned the screw to make the trigger a little heavier and problem solved.

I hope this helps.
 
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Originally Posted By: dpollardOriginally Posted By: ALPHABURNER Any side pressure on the acutrigger makes it screw up.

Edit to add - before posting my reply below I didn't read the whole thread and now see the poster just above also had the same issue...

What do you mean by "screw up"?

I had an issue with a savage trigger in a model 12. I would go to pull the trigger and if I hit the side of it the trigger felt like it would go off. The round would not fire but the trigger would disengage and I would have to cycle the bolt in order to fire the round. As it turned out I had the accu-trigger set too light, I was at the far extreme of the adjustment. I slightly turned the screw to make the trigger a little heavier and problem solved.

I hope this helps.

As lhitchcox said above, the triggers are designed to not work unless the lever take up is first done.
 
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I had the same problem with my new model 10 Predator Max-1 a few years ago. ANY side pressure applied to the trigger would trip the trigger (but not fire it because the blade wasn't engaged). It would have to be recocked by lifting the bolt handle. Adjusting the trigger to a heavier pull weight helped but did not solve the problem. I have 3 Savages with AccuTriggers and the other 2 do NOT do this.

"Learning how to correctly pull an AccuTrigger" is a BS solution. Triggers are NOT supposed to malfunction if you pull slightly diagonally instead of perfectly straight to the rear. Imagine any hunting or field situation where you engage the accu-blade and begin pulling the trigger back, but instead of a bang you get a click because your field position required you to have a slightly imperfect trigger pull that was 15 degrees to one side instead of perfectly straight to the rear. That's not a "design feature". That's a trigger that don't work. No thanks.

I junked that problem AccuTrigger and replaced it with a RifleBasix, which is a better trigger anyways. Now when I pull the trigger, it fires like any gun is supposed to.

My 2 other AccuTriggers have NEVER had this issue and work perfectly even on the lightest settings.

 
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