ar trigger

Good to go. NM is heavier than the Varminter, both can be improved/lightened with JP Yellow springs. The hammer and trigger springs reduce the 1st stage by ~3/4lb, then if you're willing to drill out the disconnector pivot pin and replace the disconnector spring with a JP Spring, you can drop the 2nd stage considerably too.

I prefer the Geiselle and the Bushmaster (like a lighter 2nd stage, heavier take up, the RRA is backwards for me), but the RRA is easier to set up than the Bushmaster 2 stage, and can actually be purchased still, which is nice. And of course, the RRA doesn't cost nearly as much as the Geiselle's.
 
I put a CMC 3-3.5 in one of mine. I prefer single stage triggers and this CMC has been excellent. I haven't measured it but all my bolt guns are set right at 2-2.25 and the CMC in my AR feel like 2.5-3 lbs.
 
good bang for the buck when you buy them right. They've been had for as low as $72. They are in all 3 of my AR's but 2 are RRA's anyway.
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I had a gunsmith put a RRA trigger in my Bushmaster and had some problems. I called RRA told them of the problem and he said sometimes the trigger had to be fitted to the Bushmaster. He told me to send it in and they would fix it-no charge. He also asked me what poundage I wanted for the trigger pull. This was at the height of an AR rush, and I was reluctant to send it in not knowing how long it would take. Their tech said they would repair it the day it came in and get it back to me.
I sent it in and got it back about a week later, they even paid shipping when it was returned. Now that is customer service! I made up my mind then, if I buy another AR, it would be a RRA. Later, I bought a RRA coyote carbine, it is a great gun with a great trigger.
 
For a less expensive option, stone and polish the sear and the sear notch on the hammer then install JP Enterprises spring kit. The JP springs only cost $11 and their springs with a good stoning/polishing can get you a trigger pull down around 4 lbs.
 
Originally Posted By: B23For a less expensive option, stone and polish the sear and the sear notch on the hammer then install JP Enterprises spring kit. The JP springs only cost $11 and their springs with a good stoning/polishing can get you a trigger pull down around 4 lbs.


this is a REEEEEELY bad idea for a couple of reasons.

1)its VERY easy to over do and now you have a trigger that will either burst fire or do a mag dump. now you just wasted a fire control group.

2) those contact surfaces on the fire control group are hardened - but only a very thin layer on the surface. Stoning them removes that hardened surface, and now you have a trigger that can - and usually will (google bill springfield trigger jobs) - over time do what i described above - either start to burst fire, or go full mag dump on you.

both are not only safety concerns, but if either should happen at a public range - you could very well end up in serious legal trouble for modifying your firearm in violation of the NFA laws regarding machine guns.

this could not only cost you your ability to own firearms due to the felony, but its also 10 years and up to $250,000 fine to go with it.

lets just say ITS NOT WORTH THE RISK!!






if you need a budget trigger job, you're better off bobbing the hammer, using a JP Yellow hammer spring, and putting a set screw on the pistol grip screw with the trigger adjuster from JoeBobs to take up the travel.


if you use the JP Yellow spring set without bobbing your hammer, you risk light strikes on hard nato cup primers. By lightening the hammer weight, you increase the speed and offset the spring weight loss.


HTH
 
Originally Posted By: Plant.OneOriginally Posted By: B23For a less expensive option, stone and polish the sear and the sear notch on the hammer then install JP Enterprises spring kit. The JP springs only cost $11 and their springs with a good stoning/polishing can get you a trigger pull down around 4 lbs.


this is a REEEEEELY bad idea for a couple of reasons.

1)its VERY easy to over do and now you have a trigger that will either burst fire or do a mag dump. now you just wasted a fire control group.

2) those contact surfaces on the fire control group are hardened - but only a very thin layer on the surface. Stoning them removes that hardened surface, and now you have a trigger that can - and usually will (google bill springfield trigger jobs) - over time do what i described above - either start to burst fire, or go full mag dump on you.

both are not only safety concerns, but if either should happen at a public range - you could very well end up in serious legal trouble for modifying your firearm in violation of the NFA laws regarding machine guns.

this could not only cost you your ability to own firearms due to the felony, but its also 10 years and up to $250,000 fine to go with it.

lets just say ITS NOT WORTH THE RISK!!






if you need a budget trigger job, you're better off bobbing the hammer, using a JP Yellow hammer spring, and putting a set screw on the pistol grip screw with the trigger adjuster from JoeBobs to take up the travel.


if you use the JP Yellow spring set without bobbing your hammer, you risk light strikes on hard nato cup primers. By lightening the hammer weight, you increase the speed and offset the spring weight loss.


HTH

Good information and well worth doing IMHO.
 
You can polish a turn but in the end it's still a turd. With all the good aftermarket triggers designed for ARs why bother fooling with a milspec trigger
 
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