How to use redding competition shellholders
- Thread starter dan158
- Start date
Are you measuring your cases with a bump gauge. If you've gone to the expense of using the competition shellholder set, you really should be measuring your cases.
Also, how much resistance do you have on the down stroke after you've sized the case? If you aren't getting proper lube the length of the case, the die will grab the sides and pull/stretch the case longer.
I'm not saying you fall into this group of people but I've seen many reloaders that don't lube the case all the way to the rim, which is where it resizes and squeezes the case back down the most. If the case doesn't have any lube there it can grab, pull, and make the case actually longer.
If it's none of the above, you likely don't have you die screwed down far enough. But, if you aren't already using a bump gauge, you really need to get yourself one. Without measuring the cases, it's all guess work.
Also, how much resistance do you have on the down stroke after you've sized the case? If you aren't getting proper lube the length of the case, the die will grab the sides and pull/stretch the case longer.
I'm not saying you fall into this group of people but I've seen many reloaders that don't lube the case all the way to the rim, which is where it resizes and squeezes the case back down the most. If the case doesn't have any lube there it can grab, pull, and make the case actually longer.
If it's none of the above, you likely don't have you die screwed down far enough. But, if you aren't already using a bump gauge, you really need to get yourself one. Without measuring the cases, it's all guess work.
Plant.One
Well-known member
what caliber are you having problems with?
what brand of dies?
brass headstamp?
are you annealing?
are you lubing the inside of the necks well enough - is it possible that your expander ball is pulling the shoulder back out due to a lack of lube there?
are you sure its a shoulder related issue - have you checked that the brass is being properly sized down at the base and you dont have a budge there thats causing the tough chambering?
is this once fired brass thats already been through your firearm? or brass from another source thats giving you fits?
a set of headspace gauges and a comparator body for your calipers should help you verify if your shoulder is moving back enough compared to your fired brass.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/...with-comparator
then add the bullet comparator bushings and you can also measure the CBTO for precision seating as well instead of using OAL.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231904/...-with-6-inserts
what brand of dies?
brass headstamp?
are you annealing?
are you lubing the inside of the necks well enough - is it possible that your expander ball is pulling the shoulder back out due to a lack of lube there?
are you sure its a shoulder related issue - have you checked that the brass is being properly sized down at the base and you dont have a budge there thats causing the tough chambering?
is this once fired brass thats already been through your firearm? or brass from another source thats giving you fits?
a set of headspace gauges and a comparator body for your calipers should help you verify if your shoulder is moving back enough compared to your fired brass.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/...with-comparator
then add the bullet comparator bushings and you can also measure the CBTO for precision seating as well instead of using OAL.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231904/...-with-6-inserts
If I turn my die in a 1/8 after it touches the 10 die then I can go thru the dies and it works when get to 004.. But if I just touch the .010 dies I can go all the way to the 002 and still have pressure with bolt. Also I am using a redding die.. I am lubing the cases after each size older...
Originally Posted By: dan158.. Went thru all 5 shell holders and still have resistance when close the bolt..
Originally Posted By: dan158..it works when get to 004..
So, I'm confused. Do you have resistance with all of them, or does the +.004 one work?
Do you understand how these shell holders work? Don't feel bad if you don't. Seems like a lot of people don't.
They are thicker than a standard shell holder, in .002 increments, from +.002 through +.010.
So, using a hard cam over against the .002, should result in .002 LESS headspace than hard cam over using a standard shell holder.
In other words, they size less - the shoulder gets set back by .002 through .010 less, meaning they are that much longer at the datum.
So if you have more bolt resistance than you want using hard cam over with a standard shell holder, these will only make that worse.
What they are for, is situations where you would normally want to back the die out to reduce headspace. They allow the consistency of maintaining a hard cam on the shell holder while decreasing headspace in uniform, controlled increments.
But... Which is it? Do none of them work or is #4 the right one?
- DAA
Originally Posted By: dan158..it works when get to 004..
So, I'm confused. Do you have resistance with all of them, or does the +.004 one work?
Do you understand how these shell holders work? Don't feel bad if you don't. Seems like a lot of people don't.
They are thicker than a standard shell holder, in .002 increments, from +.002 through +.010.
So, using a hard cam over against the .002, should result in .002 LESS headspace than hard cam over using a standard shell holder.
In other words, they size less - the shoulder gets set back by .002 through .010 less, meaning they are that much longer at the datum.
So if you have more bolt resistance than you want using hard cam over with a standard shell holder, these will only make that worse.
What they are for, is situations where you would normally want to back the die out to reduce headspace. They allow the consistency of maintaining a hard cam on the shell holder while decreasing headspace in uniform, controlled increments.
But... Which is it? Do none of them work or is #4 the right one?
- DAA
Not the way I expected.. I would of thought if brought the ram up till it touched the .010 shell holder all I would have to do is go thru the dies till I get one that lets me close the bolt without pressure..
Now if I have to turn the die in a 1/8 turn each time I set up for that rifle I have to go thru each shell holder to make sure I didn/t turn in more or less.
Does that make sense??
If I turn the die in 1/8 turn on set up, my bolt closes without pressure on .004 shell holder after going thru 10,8 and 6.. If I just bring the ram up to touch the .010 shell holder and not give it that extra 1/8 turn the shell holders do not work all the way down to .002... Bolt wont close
Now if I have to turn the die in a 1/8 turn each time I set up for that rifle I have to go thru each shell holder to make sure I didn/t turn in more or less.
Does that make sense??
If I turn the die in 1/8 turn on set up, my bolt closes without pressure on .004 shell holder after going thru 10,8 and 6.. If I just bring the ram up to touch the .010 shell holder and not give it that extra 1/8 turn the shell holders do not work all the way down to .002... Bolt wont close
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Plant.Onewhat caliber are you having problems with?
what brand of dies?
brass headstamp?
are you annealing?
are you lubing the inside of the necks well enough - is it possible that your expander ball is pulling the shoulder back out due to a lack of lube there?
and
are you sure its a shoulder related issue - have you checked that the brass is being properly sized down at the base and you dont have a budge there thats causing the tough chambering?
is this once fired brass thats already been through your firearm? or brass from another source thats giving you fits?
a set of headspace gauges and a comparator body for your calipers should help you verify if your shoulder is moving back enough compared to your fired brass.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/...with-comparator
then add the bullet comparator bushings and you can also measure the CBTO for precision seating as well instead of using OAL.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231904/...-with-6-inserts
I got the bullet one I will order the headspace one.. Reloading is addictive and I am one who has to have this and that.. I am out for every bit of accuracy out of my loads as I can..
what brand of dies?
brass headstamp?
are you annealing?
are you lubing the inside of the necks well enough - is it possible that your expander ball is pulling the shoulder back out due to a lack of lube there?
and
are you sure its a shoulder related issue - have you checked that the brass is being properly sized down at the base and you dont have a budge there thats causing the tough chambering?
is this once fired brass thats already been through your firearm? or brass from another source thats giving you fits?
a set of headspace gauges and a comparator body for your calipers should help you verify if your shoulder is moving back enough compared to your fired brass.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/...with-comparator
then add the bullet comparator bushings and you can also measure the CBTO for precision seating as well instead of using OAL.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231904/...-with-6-inserts
I got the bullet one I will order the headspace one.. Reloading is addictive and I am one who has to have this and that.. I am out for every bit of accuracy out of my loads as I can..
Originally Posted By: dan158
I got the bullet one I will order the headspace one.. Reloading is addictive and I am one who has to have this and that.. I am out for every bit of accuracy out of my loads as I can..
You may not gain much in the accuracy department, but your brass life and function will definitely benefit.
I got the bullet one I will order the headspace one.. Reloading is addictive and I am one who has to have this and that.. I am out for every bit of accuracy out of my loads as I can..
You may not gain much in the accuracy department, but your brass life and function will definitely benefit.
coyotezapper
Member
Watch this and see if it helps.