Breaking in a leather holster???

pyscodog

Active member
I bought a hand made leather holster for my S&W Shield today. It fits the pistol great but it is TIGHT!! Any good ideas how to break it in and should I use any type of conditioner on it? Its 100% leather and really nice. I don't want to mess it up doing something I shouldn't.
 
Last edited:
I've always broke mine in by using them....they typically fit tight and that's a good thing. If it's tight to the point you can barely remove it this technique works well.....do not oil the leather you'll soften it and then it won't have the retention you want out of a holster


 
My local leather expert told me to put the gun in a plastic sandwich bag, dampen the holster, and insert the gun for a day or so. Don't use oil.
 
the local amish leather smith makes holsters for me. he's done a couple where he the water thing and sends me home with a wet holster around my gun for final fitment. Just let them dry and it'll form to the gun. no plastic bag necessary.


i take it back after its dry (next time im up that way) and he puts a conditioner on it to make sure it stays supple.

i dont recall the brand of leather conditioner he uses, however i'll be in the area next weekend and can stop by to find out.
 
Well, tried the wax paper idea. Seems it worked pretty good. Still have retention and the pistol is much easier to get in and out of the holster.
 
Originally Posted By: pyscodogWell, tried the wax paper idea. Seems it worked pretty good. Still have retention and the pistol is much easier to get in and out of the holster.

It does work well, I've had a couple holsters I needed to do it on....I typically just use the holsters to break them in but sometimes they are just too tight.
 
Lexol conditioner to keep sweat stains off of it. Pick it up at tractor supply or western stores. Good for saddles as it doesnt cuase the stirrup leathers to stretch.
 
No Lexol for me. Been leatherworking since I was a kid, holster and saddle making, and a lot of repairs, many of which were checked leather caused by improper conditioning - often with lexol or neatsfoot COMPOUND. Tons of guys use Lexol because it's readily available on the shelf at tack and farm supply shops all over the country, but being widely available doesn't make it good. Frankly, it's widely available because it's NOT good. It has a reputation of being neatsfoot oil and lanolin, but such is NOT true. It's largely synthetic, which is why it's cheap and lasts so long, and why it's not great for leather.

I personally condition my holsters and those I build with boot creams, Doc Marten's is one of my favorites. Kiwi neutral another.

Veg tanned leathers - like those used in holsters NEED to be oiled. However, "oil" is a very generic term. Synthetic oils will chemically degrade the leather over time, and microcrystalline "oils" like Renaissance Wax will also degrade (abrade) the leather fibers as well. Natural oils are good as leather conditioners. I prefer thicker cream type oils (higher molecular weight) and fats to allow me to heat them into the leather, but ensure they stay put during normal use and don't weep.

The chemistry of leather is actually quite straight forward, unfortunately, the contents of most leather conditioners are aimed at 1) selling a cheap product at high volume, 2) making leather look pretty in the short term but at the expense of long term damage, or 3) selling on gimmick alone.

EDIT: Pure linseed oil (or veg oil, corn oil, sunflower seed oil, olive oil, lard, or other natural fats - WITHOUT SALT ADDED, or dyes) make fine leather conditioners. Some tend to darken leather more than others. I've found animal fats to darken leather the least, which are also the ones which tend to be cream at room temp instead of oil. Linseed and bee's wax mixed just thick enough to produce a non-flowing cream is another blend I have used with good success, with the right chemistry to preserve leather without damaging it long term.
 
Last edited:
I'm not a fan of lexol either and agree with the above from Varminterror. Though I'll depart in this much, I like pure neatsfoot oil on holsters and M1907 slings I've made from saddle skirting.
 
Well I have been schooled on saddle conditioning. I guess my old circle y roping saddle will fall apart any day now and I better not put my water bottle in my saddle bags or it may fall through the bottom. At least I use olive oil on my luccheses and black jacks. Cant afford to replace that saddle and all of my boots.
 
Originally Posted By: RossignolI'm not a fan of lexol either and agree with the above from Varminterror. Though I'll depart in this much, I like pure neatsfoot oil on holsters and M1907 slings I've made from saddle skirting.

Neatsfoot OIL is one thing - as long as you know it's actually neatsfoot. You'll note that I did not say I had any issue with neatsfoot OIL, but rather highlighted "Neatsfoot COMPOUND" for a reason.

Neatsfoot COMPOUND usually a blend of neatsfoot oil plus synthetic oils and water (plus an emulsifier)... Neither of which are good for leather, which is why I've made money for many years replacing leathergoods and tack damaged by it.
 
Last edited:
^^^ you're right, and that's my bad. I saw that and failed to make mention of the distinction in my response. GC also correct. The oil is rendered from parts of the cows bones in the legs and feet if I'm understanding correctly.
 
Just wear it every day for a couple weeks. It'll loosen right up. That's what I do with all mine, and I make them very tight.
 
Back
Top