Proper Suppressor Fit

6mm06

6mm06

Well-known member

I am still very much in learning mode pertaining to suppressors, and have a few questions for those of you who are more knowledgeable about such things.

(1) My .308 rifle barrel is 22" and has a diameter (6 inches from the muzzle) of .680". I read somewhere that I should take a measurement that far back from the muzzle. I had wanted a direct 5/8-24 thread but from what I gather on the net, the minimum barrel needed for that thread is .725", so my question is, or my assumption is, that I would need some sort of an adapter, OR choose a different thread. If that's the case, then which is advisable, a different thread, or an adapter?

(2) I read somewhere that the Ruger American Predator that is threaded from the factory, has a barrel size that won't group well with the added weight of a suppressor, especially once a few rounds have been fired. Is that true? And if that is true, then what about my rifle that has the .680" diameter barrel?

(3) Is accuracy lost when using an adapter to fit a can to a barrel?

(4) Please advise me what you would do with my barrel, the .680" and setting it up properly for a suppressor, specifically what you would use etc.

I like the idea of using a 30 caliber can with 5/8-24 threads, and using a direct fit to my rifles that will permit it, but need to know what to do with those rifle barrels that may be a little too thin.

I appreciate any info, and anything else you might like to say about fitting suppressors to different barrel diameters.

 
The added weight of the suppressor has absolutely NOTHING to do with the accuracy of the rifle/barrel...

Don't really know about adapters but i run the suppressor with the quick detach (YHM) and there has been absolutely NO difference in accuracy with it on or off, although the POI will shift but always repeats when it is put back on...

The last one i just done has a .700 barrel and its threaded 5/8x24 for the YHM QD...

IMO... if you want to run it on all your rifles i would opt for the QD system which is superior IMO than the direct thread for repeatability... Thats JMO though.
 

Reddog, thanks.

I'm glad to hear the suppressor weight has nothing to do with accuracy. I wondered about that when I read it, questioning why a barrel would even be threaded from the factory if an added suppressor would affect groups / accuracy.

I'm a bit confused about your rifle being threaded 5/8x24 and why you would need the YHM QD. Why would you not just use a direct thread? I assume your can is a 5/8x24?

Do you have a photo or link to the YHM QD you mentioned?

As I say, I'm learning and hoping to get a good handle on possibilities and what I might be able to do.

 
The 5/8x24 is the thread pitch of the QD, My can is the QD YHM 7.62 Phantom (30 cal) which uses there QD system. I run it on everything from 17 FB which is my avatar up to 300 WM all with there QD system..

Here is the .700 with the QD

 
I just had 4 barrels threaded, 1 of them 5/8 x 24, on a barrel smaller than .680. There isn't much shoulder there, but there is enough. I don't tighten the suppressor down with a pipe wrench haha. I think you will be just fine if you want to direct thread that .680 barrel. Especially if your smith cuts as good fitting threads as mine does.
 
Here is a link to Thunderbeast thread specifications. It says it applies to both direct thread and their compact brake adapter. It gives minimum barrel diameter

I have a sporter contour in 6.5 x 47 Lapua that I'm going to use the 9/16 thread pitch to allow me to have enough shoulder

Thunderbeast thread specs
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
(2) I read somewhere that the Ruger American Predator that is threaded from the factory, has a barrel size that won't group well with the added weight of a suppressor, especially once a few rounds have been fired. Is that true? And if that is true, then what about my rifle that has the .680" diameter barrel?


It's not specific to suppressors. Adding a weight, any weight, whether it's a suppressor or a tuner or a muzzle brake or a banana, to the end of any barrel, WILL effect the harmonics.

What effect that will have, is not very predictable. Other than, it's probably going to change POI. Effects on accuracy, you just have to find out. It could as easily improve groups as make them worse. Or, it might not make a noticeable difference for a particular barrel and load. A few variables are in play and it just depends on how they line up.

That thinner, less stiff barrels might be more likely to show the effect, is intuitive enough.

Load tuning "should" bring the accuracy back, if the weight makes it worse at first.

Only point being, that hanging a weight off the end of a barrel, does change the harmonics. And that can effect the accuracy. All anecdotal evidence to the contrary that you might hear, not withstanding.

- DAA
 
Might add... Shortening a barrel, also effects the harmonics. Period. Another variable being added to the mix. Typically, shortening a barrel makes it stiffer and stiffer barrels are more accurate, in general, all else being equal.

- DAA
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
I am still very much in learning mode pertaining to suppressors, and have a few questions for those of you who are more knowledgeable about such things.

(1) My .308 rifle barrel is 22" and has a diameter (6 inches from the muzzle) of .680". I read somewhere that I should take a measurement that far back from the muzzle. I had wanted a direct 5/8-24 thread but from what I gather on the net, the minimum barrel needed for that thread is .725", so my question is, or my assumption is, that I would need some sort of an adapter, OR choose a different thread. If that's the case, then which is advisable, a different thread, or an adapter?

(2) I read somewhere that the Ruger American Predator that is threaded from the factory, has a barrel size that won't group well with the added weight of a suppressor, especially once a few rounds have been fired. Is that true? And if that is true, then what about my rifle that has the .680" diameter barrel?

(3) Is accuracy lost when using an adapter to fit a can to a barrel?

(4) Please advise me what you would do with my barrel, the .680" and setting it up properly for a suppressor, specifically what you would use etc.

I like the idea of using a 30 caliber can with 5/8-24 threads, and using a direct fit to my rifles that will permit it, but need to know what to do with those rifle barrels that may be a little too thin.

I appreciate any info, and anything else you might like to say about fitting suppressors to different barrel diameters.



first, not sure where you read to take the measurement 6 inches from the muzzle, but that makes no sense. all the threading is done within 1/2 to 5/8 inch of the muzzle. if you barrel is .680 six inches from the muzzle, it is even smaller towards the muzzle where it matters.

you barrel is to small to be threaded 5/8x24. wont be hardly any, if any, shoulder for the can to stop against. no doubt about that. just wont work out.

1/2x28 wont work either. the 308 bore size would leave the material to thin.

the 9/16x24 is a possibility and likely you best hope.

skinny barrel with big bore really complicates things.

never thought using adapters was a good idea. would avoid that route if it was mine.
 
Short answer, pick a different rifle to suppress. I've told friends that want to get into suppressors that it WILL change the way they look at firearms in their existing inventory as well as future purchases in terms of, CAN I SUPPRESS IT? Once you have suppressors you don't go back to shooting unsuppressed, just saying.

I have a Ruger American Predator .243 and I can assure you that while the POI changes with the suppressor, it still shoots sub MOA with my handloads all day long so whoever wrote what you read about it not being accurate must've just finished hitting the bong. Since my State has made hunting with suppressors legal, the POI change from suppressed to unauppressed is a moot point. As the old saying goes, SUPPRESS ALL THINGS!
 

Thanks to everyone.

I don't remember exactly "where" I read the things I mentioned, but it was on the net of course, in various forums while I was searching for information. I trust these forums more than others and that's why I asked you guys. I have little knowledge about such things, but I have a strong desire to learn.

If suppressing my .680" barrel is not a good idea due to thickness, then I will just discard that idea. By the way, I just now measured the end of the barrel (not 6 inches from it) and it measures .650".

here are yet more questions.

(1) I have another rifle, a CZ 527 in .17 Remington that has a heavier 24" barrel, which is actually their varmint model. The rifle is super accurate and I have considered suppressing it since it is a very loud one. The barrel end measures .700", but a few inches from the end is considerably thicker since it tapers quite a bit. I understand that the usual thread size for 22 caliber and below is 1/2x28", so would that barrel work fine with that thread, or should I use another thread?

(2) If I understand correctly, using a larger can (30 caliber) on a 22 caliber or less may not suppress as much as using a can more caliber specific. Is that correct?

(3) Another rifle I would like to suppress is a Dtech 6x45 that has a 20" barrel and measures .720" at the end.

What say ye about threading these two barrels? Thread size etc.?

(4) If building my own upper and purchasing a barrel that already has a 5/8x24" thread for a flash hider (6.8 SPC), is that all I need to screw on a can too, or do I need some sort of adapter. Will the can screw up tight enough or the proper distance onto the barrel threaded for a flash hider?

 
My gunsmith told me he likes/recommends the barrel to be at least .125 larger than the threads
1/2" = .500 + .125 = .625 and so on

Maybe that will help you a bit
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Thanks to everyone.

I don't remember exactly "where" I read the things I mentioned, but it was on the net of course, in various forums while I was searching for information. I trust these forums more than others and that's why I asked you guys. I have little knowledge about such things, but I have a strong desire to learn.

If suppressing my .680" barrel is not a good idea due to thickness, then I will just discard that idea. By the way, I just now measured the end of the barrel (not 6 inches from it) and it measures .650".

here are yet more questions.

(1) I have another rifle, a CZ 527 in .17 Remington that has a heavier 24" barrel, which is actually their varmint model. The rifle is super accurate and I have considered suppressing it since it is a very loud one. The barrel end measures .700", but a few inches from the end is considerably thicker since it tapers quite a bit. I understand that the usual thread size for 22 caliber and below is 1/2x28", so would that barrel work fine with that thread, or should I use another thread?

(2) If I understand correctly, using a larger can (30 caliber) on a 22 caliber or less may not suppress as much as using a can more caliber specific. Is that correct?

(3) Another rifle I would like to suppress is a Dtech 6x45 that has a 20" barrel and measures .720" at the end.

What say ye about threading these two barrels? Thread size etc.?

(4) If building my own upper and purchasing a barrel that already has a 5/8x24" thread for a flash hider (6.8 SPC), is that all I need to screw on a can too, or do I need some sort of adapter. Will the can screw up tight enough or the proper distance onto the barrel threaded for a flash hider?



1. 1/2x28 is good to go for the .17 barrel.

2. My Recce 7 and Harvester 30 sound darn good on a Savage Model 25 .223, I'd give a slight edge to the Harvester which will be used on it.

3. That barrel is close to the usually prescribed minimum of .725, you will need to confirm with the gunshith who is threading it and the mfg of the can.

4. That will depend on the suppressor you end up using.

Everyone I know that has cans pretty much uses direct thread for bolt action guns and a can with a QD mount for semi-auto as there is a greater risk of it unscrewing with a higher rate of fire on direct thread cans.

First off, you WILL end up with more than one can, guaranteed. If you're trying to beat the July deadline for 41F with a trust and can only get one can, absolutely get a .30 can that is the lightest, has the mounting options for every rifle you want to suppress, and will handle the barrel lengths and ROF you intend to do with those rifles.

Based on what you listed I would look strongly at the SilencerCo Omega, it performs great on dB tests, tons of mounting options and has a great tone.

If you can afford two, your options open up but make sure one is a lightweight can like the Harvester or one of the Ti options from SAS or TBAC.

I'm sure you'll get a lot more recommendations on brands and models, but the first rule is, the longer you wait, the longer it takes;).

 
.100 over the thread size is usually the gunsmith/suppressor manufacturer minimum for obtaining a sufficient shoulder for the suppressor to butt up against. 1/2x28 is usually reserved for 22 cal and under while anything .243 and over is usually 5/8x24. However, depending on barrel diameter/caliber size you can go 9/16x24 or even 1/2x28 for medium sized calibers.

My problem is that I'd like to use direct thread for my Tikka T3 Lites after chopping them back to 18" for a 9/16x24 thread, but I'm also apprehensive about using thread adapters. I may just end up using brake mounts on all my rifles for my SilencerCo Omega. Extra money and weight, but it is pretty convenient.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: roky0702.100 over the thread size is usually the gunsmith/suppressor manufacturer minimum for obtaining a sufficient shoulder for the suppressor to butt up against. 1/2x28 is usually reserved for 22 cal and under while anything .243 and over is usually 5/8x24. However, depending on barrel diameter/caliber size you can go 9/16x24 or even 1/2x28 for medium sized calibers.

My problem is that I'd like to use direct thread for my Tikka T3 Lites after chopping them back to 18" for a 9/16x24 thread, but I'm also apprehensive about using thread adapters. I may just end up using brake mounts on all my rifles for my SilencerCo Omega. Extra money and weight, but it is pretty convenient.

Can you give the OP feedback on the Omega as it's the can I suggested he consider.
 
Back
Top