wachtelhund1
Member
Originally Posted By: jetman Are your wads "split your own "?
If they are your not splitting them far enough down or you need another split. I had the same problem with my Coyote loads at first but I went to a pre split wad, multi metal , and no more backward wads...
Don't be afraid to chock your barrel. with the lead "F" shot I use I use a .669 choke with great success out of my long 870 supper express
Yes the wads are uncut and I'm cutting them .78 inches. I used a 3/4" foster to bore and hole in a block of hard maple. I put the wads in the hole and started the 3 slits with a 3 blade broad head and then finish them with a razor knife. Cutting them in the block ensures the cuts are equal. Wads seem to perform well with out buffer.
My Valmet 412 is a combination o/u, 12ga over a .223 barrel. The barrel is a fixed choke and the barrel walls are to thin to have screw in chokes install. Once I get the scope adjusted for a center pattern at 40 yards, I'll adjust the .223 barrel to hit were the scope is aimed at 100 yards.
If they are your not splitting them far enough down or you need another split. I had the same problem with my Coyote loads at first but I went to a pre split wad, multi metal , and no more backward wads...
Don't be afraid to chock your barrel. with the lead "F" shot I use I use a .669 choke with great success out of my long 870 supper express
Yes the wads are uncut and I'm cutting them .78 inches. I used a 3/4" foster to bore and hole in a block of hard maple. I put the wads in the hole and started the 3 slits with a 3 blade broad head and then finish them with a razor knife. Cutting them in the block ensures the cuts are equal. Wads seem to perform well with out buffer.
My Valmet 412 is a combination o/u, 12ga over a .223 barrel. The barrel is a fixed choke and the barrel walls are to thin to have screw in chokes install. Once I get the scope adjusted for a center pattern at 40 yards, I'll adjust the .223 barrel to hit were the scope is aimed at 100 yards.