Im Looking for a coyote decoy dog...I would love to talk to someone with some decoy dog experience

C

CaliCoyoteCaller

New member
I would like to find a coyote decoy dog or at least talk to someone that has experience with decoy dogs. I ran bear/cat hounds for many years and trained many dogs, so I know I can train my own decoy dog if I could talk to someone who has ran decoy dogs and they would give me some direction on how to get the dog started and best way to go about it. Particular breed of dog is not too important, Im more looking for direction from experience on how to start/train the dog and possibly somebody that would have a young dog they would wanna sell. Anybody out there know someone who I could contact that wouldn't mind talking with me a little bit about this???? Any help would sure be appreciated. Thanks, guys.
 
Keep your eyes on the threads in this section. There are pups, started dogs, and experienced dogs for sale from time to time, and plenty of guys with plenty of experience.
 
Have a dog that's 8 months old or older and pour coyotes on it between April and September. They will or they won't.
 
It's not all that hard. If you have a good dog that has the "want to" to hunt and have the ability to call in lots of coyotes in a few months time frame, you can do it. From what I have seen is most dogs can do it, it is the humans that ruin things. But like your lion hounds, a hound that sees 2 lions a year is not going to be near as good as one that sees 100. It is all about exposing the dog to coyotes and let them figure things out.
 
Originally Posted By: sharpshooter4912It's not all that hard. If you have a good dog that has the "want to" to hunt and have the ability to call in lots of coyotes in a few months time frame, you can do it. From what I have seen is most dogs can do it, it is the humans that ruin things. But like your lion hounds, a hound that sees 2 lions a year is not going to be near as good as one that sees 100. It is all about exposing the dog to coyotes and let them figure things out.

I can expose him to coyotes, that wont be the issue. I guess I just wanted to make sure start him correctly. From what I see, it appears they are using a shock collar to beep/vibrate them dogs back to them when they want them to come off a running coyote. I would assume after a few times, the dog would figure out the gig and start running back to you on his own once he realizes you will shoot the coyote when he brings him close. At that point, you prob would not have to beep/vibrate your dog off the yote, he would start pulling off and turn around and come back to you on his own with coyote in tow....I dunno. again, I dont have a clue about training a decoy dog...Now, cat and bear dogs? Sure!
 
^^^^ that is pretty accurate ^^^^. Put coyotes in front of the dog. There's no training to it. They will or they won't. You can't simulate it.
 
Originally Posted By: SHampton^^^^ that is pretty accurate ^^^^. Put coyotes in front of the dog. There's no training to it. They will or they won't. You can't simulate it.

Come on Scott, you are taking all the fun out of this. (-:
 
Originally Posted By: SHamptonShould I mention a dog needs to be born on a blood moon and eat through razor wire to get to a coyote?

LOL. Of course you know I know you are right that coyotes in front of a dog during the right part of the year is the critical deal here. And that we agree that all the simulated Decoy Dog training is, well, you know.

But I must add that I firmly believe that even though any any dog might work out, you can hedge your bet by selecting dogs that show successful traits in their parentage. Also I would offer for consideration that obedience training can improve the quality of life for all involved.

I also think it is helpful to condition puppies to loud sounds, strangers, other dogs, kennels/dog boxes, non target animals, etc, etc, etc.
 
I agree with all that, Craig. I prefer to start with a dog from good lines but I also know a dog called Spot who had two littermates knocked in the head because they didn't make the cut. I've got a Louisiana swamp dog from proven hog blood and a 10# dog the entire world said would NEVER decoy that do a pretty decent job for me.
 
Yes Scott. The blood that Spot carries does come from successful dogs back for several generations. And of course seldom are any young dogs well exposed the ways she was. The Stars were all aligned with terrific results. I credit hunting stands with her as the experience that flipped the switch for Tucker.

Not everyone makes it for sure, but due to the time effort and resources required, I am going to always try to hedge my bet with the lines that seem to do what I want(which is probably all wrong for most anyway).

The exposure to coyotes and all other things I want the pup to handle is also critical.

NOTE: Scott has started and hunted way more decoy dogs than I ever will. (-:
 
I try to make it simple. It seems the more difficult you make it, there worse off your results become.

When I start a pup, I start with coons, possums, cats, or dead coyotes. I let them chase everything they want to.(I can break them from trash later on). I don't really care about obedience per say as long as they don't want to fight other dogs or bite kids...(adults, I could care less.... hahahaha). I want them to come to me when I tell them to and to get in the truck. After that, if they will take off after a coyote when they see it, I am happy. The time spent out and about seems to just make them obedient without having to train it.

I use a collar but I will warn you that a human running the collar is 99.99999% of the problem most of the time. You tone him back every time he starts working and he will just get shorter and shorter a lot of the time. It is nice to have them come back to the tone, but that dog and coyote are reading each other. Sit back, put your gun on the ground and let it happen!!! If you get greedy and are worried about shooting the coyote, you are just setting yourself up for failure. I would rather have them go back and forth for 5-10 minutes and not get a shot than shoot after the first go round. Let them work 100 or so and then you can start shooting a few early but still need to make them work them for a bit every now and then.

I say the hardest part of it is showing them enough coyotes in such a short time frame. I mean really, hunting 3 months hard in 100 degree heat sucks unless it is your passion. I have one that is real green and a 6 month old pup that i will hammer this summer. I'm just lucky I have an old dog to teach them the ropes.

Hope this helps. It may not be everyone's way but it works for me.
 
Craig, I probably get rid of some too soon. If I show them 10-12 coyotes and it's not clicking they head on down the road.
 
This ^ is as good an explantion as I have heard yet. I'm only in my third season of using dogs and my first came partially started. My wife asks why the dogs pull on the leash, don't shake hands :), beg like crazy, bark like crazy at birds flying overhead. My answer is I dont care about any of that. I only need them to come when I hit the button or call them. I'd like it if they had better manners since I dont keep them in dog runs, but putting them outside works fine.
 
once they are old enough to be hunted, i will trash break mine. but i am careful how i do that. if they take off after a deer running across a calling stand, i let them go and as soon as they hit the track and can smell it is not a coyote i tone them. if they keep going i will let them have some fire. i always let them go out and get on the track before i tone. i dont want then to be hesitant about taking off after something running across a field, but once they hit the track they know its not a coyote, thats when i expect them to come back.

cows, as long as they dont just run off with them or bark their heads off when near them, i dont mind. if they get out of the truck and run them out of our space i dont mind as long and they arent dumb about it. i think it is good to have the dogs run some nosey cow off.

hogs, thats just a bonus, i go to them and hope they keep them bayed so i can shoot a few!!

any other fury critters, possums, coons, skunks ect. i just let them have at it. it has to be fun to them or they wouldnt get all jacked up to kill one. so heck, why not???
 
Hey guys, thanks for the input. I truly appreciate it....As a California Houndsman, I know the importance of having a dog that comes from good dogs, and I have also had dogs that came from no name junk dogs, that turned out to be FANTASTIC hounds, but more times than not, if you breed junk to junk, you get junk................that being said, I just got my first dog to try to start as a coyote dog. She does not come from coyote hunting parents though. She is 1/4 Black mouth cur, 1/4 border collie, 1/4 mcnab, and 1/4 catahoula cur. She is 13 months old right now.

Im going to start her with obedience basics...(come and load up) I want her to come on command, and as stated by several here, thats of utmost importance. She already knows to load on command.

Once she will come on command or on tone, I would assume I would get her used to the gun by starting her out with a cap gun and going up from there if she takes well to the the gun....then I would assume I would take her out with me calling, and tie her up on maybe a 25 foot lead and let her just "hang out a few times" while I shoot coyotes and get her some what used to the gig...let her run in and chew on the yote after its shot...after that, take her off the 25 foot rope and let her roam while I call, keeping her within a moderate distance of course and when the coyotes come in, let her do her thing....pursue, and come back, etc....I would rather let her work the crap out of a coyote and maybe not even get a shot the first few times, than just cut her work short and shoot the yote too fast.....I dunno guys, again, Im new to the yote doggin business so take it easy on me, but do I have somewhat of the right idea????
Again, thanks for all the input and help.
 
Originally Posted By: sharpshooter4912I try to make it simple. It seems the more difficult you make it, there worse off your results become.

When I start a pup, I start with coons, possums, cats, or dead coyotes. I let them chase everything they want to.(I can break them from trash later on). I don't really care about obedience per say as long as they don't want to fight other dogs or bite kids...(adults, I could care less.... hahahaha). I want them to come to me when I tell them to and to get in the truck. After that, if they will take off after a coyote when they see it, I am happy. The time spent out and
about seems to just make them obedient without having to train it.

I use a collar but I will warn you that a human running the collar is 99.99999% of the problem most of the time. You tone him back every time he starts working and he will just get shorter and shorter a lot of the time. It is nice to have them come back to the tone, but that dog and coyote are reading each other. Sit back, put your gun on the ground and let it happen!!! If you get greedy and are worried about shooting the coyote, you are just setting yourself up for failure. I would rather have them go back and forth for 5-10 minutes and not get a shot than shoot after the first go round. Let them work 100 or so and then you can start shooting a few early but still need to make them work them for a bit every now and then.

I say the hardest part of it is showing them enough coyotes in such a short time frame. I mean really, hunting 3 months hard in 100 degree heat sucks unless it is your passion. I have one that is real green and a 6 month old pup that i will hammer this summer. I'm just lucky I have an old dog to teach them the ropes.

Hope this helps. It may not be everyone's way but it works for me.

Thanks for your input...I reall appreciate it..very helpful
 
I would skip the whole 25 foot lead tie up. let the dog go!! if she will come back when you want her to, just let her have at it. another thing to add, if you find the right coyotes, you will not have to worry about toning or her not coming back. the coyote will for sure dictate that situation.

your cross sounds dang good. i have been eyeballing a mcnab myself. those dogs are super smart and dang sure gritty enough to take care of themselves. and can never go wrong with a curr or catahoula!! good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: sharpshooter4912I would skip the whole 25 foot lead tie up. let the dog go!! if she will come back when you want her to, just let her have at it. another thing to add, if you find the right coyotes, you will not have to worry about toning or her not coming back. the coyote will for sure dictate that situation.

your cross sounds dang good. i have been eyeballing a mcnab myself. those dogs are super smart and dang sure gritty enough to take care of themselves. and can never go wrong with a curr or catahoula!! good luck.

THANKS very much for the input!!!! I cant wait to get her out and give it a try.
 
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