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Changing to full float
- Thread starter jimmyp
- Start date
Originally Posted By: jimmypI've got an optics ready bushmaster upper that is not full float. What is it going to take for me to put a full float hand guard on it? Do I need to change the gas block?
You have a couple options for the gas block, depending on what you want to do with the rifle.
If you want to keep the front sight intact you can remove it and install a free floating handguard short enough to make room for it. Said length depends on your gas system length. This might be useful if you want to run a flip-up rear sight with a quick-disconnect scope mount so that you can shoot iron sights when you want to.
As mentioned, you can also chop the front sight down to eliminate the sight, leaving only the gas block, which should fit under most free floating handguards. That would let you run a longer handguard, and has the advantage of not having to get the front sight block off, which can be a pain. You could still run a front sight mounted on a top rail if your new handguard includes one.
Finally, you could remove the front sight block and install a low profile gas block. This allows you to sell or save the front sight block for another build. It also would allow you to buy an adjustable gas block, which can help tune your gas system if your rifle doesn't cycle properly or if the cycling leaves something to be desired. Not necessary, but could be cool if you reload.
As for the handguard itself, do you have any need to mount stuff on it? Do you want it to look a certain way? If you're just going to run a scope and don't care about the ability to run iron sights you could just get a simple tubular handguard like these [midwayusa.com]. On the other hand if you're thinking about mounting a light, front sight, or similar, you probably want something with at least a top rail. Quad rails work, but tend to be heavier than MLOK or Keymod rails, if weight is a factor.
Good luck on getting the rifle modified. I just built an upper from scratch and it really wasn't bad.
You have a couple options for the gas block, depending on what you want to do with the rifle.
If you want to keep the front sight intact you can remove it and install a free floating handguard short enough to make room for it. Said length depends on your gas system length. This might be useful if you want to run a flip-up rear sight with a quick-disconnect scope mount so that you can shoot iron sights when you want to.
As mentioned, you can also chop the front sight down to eliminate the sight, leaving only the gas block, which should fit under most free floating handguards. That would let you run a longer handguard, and has the advantage of not having to get the front sight block off, which can be a pain. You could still run a front sight mounted on a top rail if your new handguard includes one.
Finally, you could remove the front sight block and install a low profile gas block. This allows you to sell or save the front sight block for another build. It also would allow you to buy an adjustable gas block, which can help tune your gas system if your rifle doesn't cycle properly or if the cycling leaves something to be desired. Not necessary, but could be cool if you reload.
As for the handguard itself, do you have any need to mount stuff on it? Do you want it to look a certain way? If you're just going to run a scope and don't care about the ability to run iron sights you could just get a simple tubular handguard like these [midwayusa.com]. On the other hand if you're thinking about mounting a light, front sight, or similar, you probably want something with at least a top rail. Quad rails work, but tend to be heavier than MLOK or Keymod rails, if weight is a factor.
Good luck on getting the rifle modified. I just built an upper from scratch and it really wasn't bad.
07yzrysder
New member
If you have a standard round or triangle type GI hand guard you may need a spacer if you use an after market gas block since you wont be using the hand guard cap.