How do i know if i can have my barrel threaded?

If you thread it 1/2x28, The minimum outside diameter of your barrel needs to be .600 which is "about" 5/8 of an inch if I'm not mistaken.
 
1/2-28 needs to be .500 minimum, 5/8-24 needs to be .625.

you can still thread it even if it is a few thousandths under those, i have done it, it works fine.
 
Originally Posted By: zr600Ok so my barrel measured at the end .583. So i should go with 1/2--28 threads then?

Correct... most .224 calibers are threaded 1/2X28 TPI, usually from the 6mm on up your looking at 5/8X24 unless you direct otherwise.
 
Originally Posted By: 67241/2-28 needs to be .500 minimum, 5/8-24 needs to be .625.

you can still thread it even if it is a few thousandths under those, i have done it, it works fine.

a .500 diameter barrel threaded 1/2-28 would have no shoulder for a suppressor to butt up against. to stop against. same with the .625 threaded at 5/8-24.

you did it and it worked fine huh? like to see that.
 
Originally Posted By: SlickerThanSnotOriginally Posted By: 67241/2-28 needs to be .500 minimum, 5/8-24 needs to be .625.

you can still thread it even if it is a few thousandths under those, i have done it, it works fine.

a .500 diameter barrel threaded 1/2-28 would have no shoulder for a suppressor to butt up against. to stop against. same with the .625 threaded at 5/8-24.

you did it and it worked fine huh? like to see that.

Kind of what i was thinking. Not sure about the 1/2 of top of my head but Thunder Beast recomends .720 as minimum for 5/8 thread.
 
i am no master machinist, but to turn a 5/8" thread the barrel gets turned down to .625.

yes, i threaded a barrel that measured .498, a bushy carbon 15 with the quick detach muzzle brake. the barrel was thin, but then stepped up.

a shoulder to seat against does not need to be large. most barrels have some taper, while more might seem like better, i think anything over .030 would work. or, i have not tried it yet, but a jamb nut. also, when i cut threads, i do not cut to spec. i cut until it fits MY muzzle device nicely. most of my commercial threads are quite loose, the ones i thread fit much better.
 
For .223 and smaller you want a 1/2x28 thread and will need .600 minimum at the muzzle to have enough shoulder for the suppressor to butt up against. For .243 and larger you usually want a 5/8x24 thread and will need .720 minimum at the muzzle. There are exceptions however, like I'm having my Tikka T3 Lite .243 and .270 threaded 1/2x28 and using a 5/8x24 thread adapter. The .270 is getting a little thin between the bore and threads, but I've been told it will be fine.
 
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Anybody try 9/16" threads on a sporter barrel that's too thin for 5/8"? I'm wondering if that might be the way to go over 1/2" for a barrel with .650-.660" muzzle diameter.

Also, anybody seen/have pics of a muzzle thread job done by LRI using 5/8 and a jam nut on a sporter barrel?
 
Originally Posted By: Anton ChigurhAlso, anybody seen/have pics of a muzzle thread job done by LRI using 5/8 and a jam nut on a sporter barrel?

On another post I linked a photo of a guys Tikka T3 Lite on Sniper's Hide that had the jam nut setup and was planning on doing that for my two T3 Lites, but when I called LRI and they said they weren't doing it anymore. 9/16 should work. Here's a 5/8 adapter for it also: http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/muz...364-105317.aspx

Edit: I just checked my T3 Lite and if I chop the barrels to 18", it's right around .660. I may thread them 9/16 now instead of 1/2 so there's a little more material between the .243 and .277 bores and the threads. Thanks for the reminder about 9/16 thread!
 
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I'm meeting with a gunsmith Friday to have my tikka t3 and sako threaded. I'm going with a sas suppressor and tomb system. My goal is to get 9/16x24 threads on barrel. Will keep you guys informed on how it goes. Thanks Ricky
 
I'm going to have my Tikkas t3 lite 22-250 and 243 threaded 1/2:28 along with my AR 223. I'm then going to buy a browning xbolt in 308 with threaded barrel to start with my two cans. I really think this will round out my needs. If not I may purchase a tikka CRT in a 260. All my bigger bore rifles have sporter barrels and I can't see choping them up to be threaded just two much history in them. Well that's my plan right now but I have a looooong time before I get my suppressors so it may change. Ricky
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06

Any suggestions of a competent gunsmith or two who knows what they are doing in threading barrels?

I know Tim at SAS threads them to spec and is very reasonable. I'm sure Chad Dixon at LRI would do a good job as well.
 
Originally Posted By: Kino MOriginally Posted By: 6mm06

Any suggestions of a competent gunsmith or two who knows what they are doing in threading barrels?

I know Tim at SAS threads them to spec and is very reasonable. I'm sure Chad Dixon at LRI would do a good job as well.

I would have used Tim but they wanted barrels removed from action. After paying a GS to remove barrel ship them out and then have GS to put it back on your talking a lot of money.
 
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