skinning vs on the hoof

Cramer

New member
I know there are a ton of posts about how to skin and what to do for a profit. That being said, I have some other questions. In years past the coyotes I harvested I sold to a local taxi whole. I now live in an area with considerably better fur. If I were to skin my take from calling, what is the preferred method?I am not set up to put up a winters worth of furs. What I mean is how far do I go? Do I skin, flesh, stretch, ? Then what?

I have heard guys say just to skin, because a lot of guys screw up while fleshing. Do I salt after skinning and then offer it to the local buyer?

If i wanted to skin on just to do it and then send it to a tannery, what condition should I have it end to send?

As mentioned before I am in no way set up to handle furs all winter. I really have no tools or equipment. But I think it would be awesome to figure out how to at least handle a pelt, and if I could pay for some fuel it's a bonus.

TIA
 
Originally Posted By: Cramer What I mean is how far do I go? Do I skin, flesh, stretch, ? Then what?


TIA

the skin, flesh, stretch is about all unless there is holes. then add sewing. if the hide is really bloody give it a bath in a 5 gallon bucket of water with some dawn dish soap in it. then give it a good rinse and wring out excess water. no need to salt if you are selling them to a fur buyer. i always like giving them a really good brushing after the stretching. makes them look fluffy and better overall.
 
You don't really need much to do it. Case skinning is the method I use I skin mine in my barn, I don't use a tail splitter even though they are nice I use a gut hook to strip the tail after I pull the bone out. When I skin I also leave the lower lip on since it looks better, put them on wire stretchers (grays, kit fox, yotes, cats, badger, cats etc) Flesh them while on the stretcher since it's tight and I have done it long enough to not cut holes in em I have never used a fleshing board. I then let it dry a night or two and flip it fur side out put it back on the stretcher depends how long based on the temperature sometimes I will use a fan and blocks small pieces of wood to open them up so there is good air flow to dry them good. You can use sawdust or borax on the arm areas or anywhere greasy or to get it to dry quicker. I wash all my furs with water and soap so they smell good and get all blood, burrs out. I fluff up the fur after I wash it so it'll dry faster and ring out the tail and puff it back up. I pull the ears out so they dry uniform not bent, I use a cutting needle to sew up my fur and match the color of the thread to the predator. Some guys use fishing line as well it's strong and clear so it's hard to see. After the pelt drys I take them off the stretcher and rub borax in and use a shop vac to fluff the fur up and make it look the best. I take great pride in my fur put up and respect the predators I hunt I hate wasting fur. That's pretty much how I do it not allot required.
 
Talk to your fur buyer first. Alot of them prefer things a little different such as mine likes me to cut off the bottom lip. He also would rather sew up any holes himself and I sell everything to him green. I just skin, clean off any blood, and give them a good brush then into the freezer. Thats how he likes them and he doesnt pay anymore for a fleshed and stretched fur than he does for a green one. Makes a difference that he has a guy that has been fleshing and stretching hides for 60+ years. Completely different than how my last buyer wanted them done.
 
If i skin something out, clean it, and freeze it before fleshing and stretching, is it possible to thaw it back out without causing the hair to slip?
 
Awesome. I was in Scheels earlier and almost bought a couple of wire stretchers but wasn't sure of the size needed for totes. I'm gonna do some more research. I may not make any money but it will be fun to try it out. Like I need more hobbies.
 
My fur buyer says no to wire stretchers. He wants it on a board. Says it dries better and form is nicer. I did buy one stretcher before I had this conversation with him. Rudy
 
Wire will work fine, wood is better for coyotes and fox. Wire wont produce the most uniform collection of furs, but wire strtchers will work fine. Make sure the leather side is fairly dry and I would borax the leather where the wire will touch but its not required
 
If you are only going to put up a few each year or to be able to ship for tanning, use wire. When and if you start putting up numbers for the auctions or trying to max your average pelt you will need wood stretchers. You could buy one and make more yourself, if you decide to make a few make one thinner at the front shoulders for smaller females length is generally better then short and wide.
 
Last edited:
Unless you are lucky enough to get a buyer to pay same price regardless then each extra step you do puts more money in your pocket.

Read the NAFA Fur Handling Manual. Pages 8-9 give an explanation of metal vs. wood stretchers.

May also want to be prepared if you get a real unusual colored yote to know what the taxidermy market will pay, as they need to be skinned differently than fur pelts.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Honestly I would like to do it more as a hobby. If I get a fox or bader then I would like to be able to prep them to send off for tanning. Otherwise it's just for fun and play money.
 
Back
Top