First attempt at a fleshing beam

LARUEminati

LARUEminati

New member
Needed a solid fleshing beam for coyotes so I made an attempt at making my own from a scrap piece of solid oak. Took some elbow grease but it turned out decent.

I trimmed it down to 7.00" wide and made the roundness roughly the shape as the inside of a 5 gallon bucket. I didn't make the nose too thin, i'm going to make another table top beam for working the ears (taxidermy style) and doing the small bits.

I also made a base with an adjustable hinge, i'll put up a few pics one I have it all assembled. Anything I did wrong with the beam you can see, or anything I can do better please point it out and let me know.








 
Only thing Id do is make the tip a little more narrow. Ive found that helpful on smaller yotes and makes spinning the pelt a little easier since its not so snug around the snout. Could be narrower than it looks in the pic though
 
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Originally Posted By: phutch30Only thing Id do is make the tip a little more narrow. Ive found that helpful on smaller yotes and makes spinning the pelt a little easier since its not so snug around the snout. Could be narrower than it looks in the pic though

It's pretty thick, and that was one part I was undecided on & looked at for a long time. I can thin it out, I started with 2" thick wood so it's not much thinner than that. Most beams i've seen are like 3/4" at the tip. Thanks!
 
nice work!!!!
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I like them small3r in the tip also as I pull the front legs over the tip to flesh around them and to hold the pelt while fleshing the lower half of the pelt.. I like them a little more narrow and rounded, I use the same beam for beaver with a very sharp draw knife. I do pretty much of everything on the same beam other than mink and rats. I usually make them from a 2x6 but have been know to split a 6" log out in the bush and rough it in with an ax and finish it with the draw knife, it saves packing a beam back in. We would tack beaver pelts to the larger trees to eliminate boards or hoops.
 
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That's almost to pretty to use...
You may want to thin out the point, but like catbegone said, try it before to change it..
Great job bud..
 
Thanks for the input. Going to try it first once my season opens up here, we'll see how it goes and then I'll tailor it from there.
 
Looks good! Mine is made out of a 2x6 shaped by knife. Like stated already you may need it a bit narrower to get the small coyotes heads and necks on.
 
Originally Posted By: Sask trapperLooks good! Mine is made out of a 2x6 shaped by knife. Like stated already you may need it a bit narrower to get the small coyotes heads and necks on.

Narrower and thinner you think? I did have concerns about the neck fitting, as far as the width goes. I measured the tip and it's 1.5" thick, may bring it down to around 3/4" and if it needs to be a bit thinner width wise i'll do that at the same time.

Tough to find exact measurements and I have nothing to compare it to.
 
Originally Posted By: LARUEminatiOriginally Posted By: Sask trapperLooks good! Mine is made out of a 2x6 shaped by knife. Like stated already you may need it a bit narrower to get the small coyotes heads and necks on.

Narrower and thinner you think? I did have concerns about the neck fitting, as far as the width goes. I measured the tip and it's 1.5" thick, may bring it down to around 3/4" and if it needs to be a bit thinner width wise i'll do that at the same time.

Tough to find exact measurements and I have nothing to compare it to.
THe top foot or so of mine is shaped like a fox board basically.
 
Originally Posted By: KiyotesSome pics for reference, don't know if it'll help.

Helps alot, thanks!

Looks like I have a ways to go to thin mine out.

I started with a 2" rough board so it will turn out to being alot of material removed in the end. Good to know for next time.
 
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