I dont think my draw length is right

J

jace f

New member
Ok so a few weeks ago I went down to my local archery shop and got my bow set for me. They measured my draw length (30") and the bow was already at 30" so I started shooting well now that i get more knowledgeable I see guys shooting and at full draw the string meets under their mouth or jaw bone when my string is in front of my face. Is this correct?
 
need some more info, are you drawing all the way to the stops? what kind of release are you using? are you using a release? with my bow (Bowtech Allegiance)I come to full draw, my index finger at the knuckle where it joins my hand is tucked under my ear right at the base of the earlobe in that little pocket just behind it and my nose is touching my string if I turn my head just enough, your peep should be located at eye level at this point make sure you don't have to look up to get centered in the peep.
You should probably go to another bow shop and ask a few questions.
just my 2cents
 
If you use a release does it release directly from the string or do you have the d loop that is fastened to the string to which you latch your release they usually take about an inch out of your draw lenth. And here is the key are you comfortable with your shooting not everyone shoots the same .I use traditional equip and have noticed several different styles all of which I have tried but comfortable and consistent is what you are after .
 
String should come at or near the corner of your mouth with your face muscles relaxed, and the TIP of your nose to the string. This positions your head the same each shot and allows the string to leave the front of your face cleanly, not scraping along your cheek. The position of your release hand is at your discretion, whatever feels best to you.
 
When I worked at an archery shop and set up bows, I couldn't keep track of how many people used too long of a draw length. Of course back then we joked about guys wanting speed so bad that they would sell their mothers for an extra 5-10 fps, so most of them shot with a draw length too long to get a little extra speed.
 
Originally Posted By: doaString should come at or near the corner of your mouth with your face muscles relaxed, and the TIP of your nose to the string. This positions your head the same each shot and allows the string to leave the front of your face cleanly, not scraping along your cheek. The position of your release hand is at your discretion, whatever feels best to you.

Depending on the Axel to Axel length of your bow your string does not need to touch your nose. Shorter ATA bows have a more extreme string angle making it near impossible to touch your nose. If its comfortable and works its a great point of contact, but i wouldnt tailor your form around that aspect.
 
Yes, shorter axle to axle bows cause more acute string angles. But with slight draw length adjustments you will still be able to get the string on your nose without your head being tucked excessively. Unless you have a button for a nose lol.
I shoot my 28 inch A-A, 29.5 inch draw length Creed XS with the string on my nose.
 
True, i touch my nose to my string on my longer target bow, but cant do it while maintaining the same anchor point with my hunting bow. I talked extensively with a well renouned archery teacher and was told that form and consistant anchor is far more important than trying to force your nose to the string.
 
Agree with DOA. Need a minimum of two spots that are always EXACTLY the same if accuracy is going to be repeatable. Usually this is accomplished with anchor point as one and nose touching the string is two. Add a kisser button that comes to the corner of the mouth and now you have three spots to ensure that everything comes to the same spot EVERY time. Field of view through the peep does not ensure your in the same spot every time. You can be off ever so slightly and still have a full field of view through the peep. This can and will affect accuracy. Adding the kisser button is a good idea if you cant get nose to the string.
 
Post a pic at full draw. I like the back of the carbon to be right inline with the pupil. Draw length aligns the front half of the body loop length aligns the back half. You want the middle of the elbow to be inline with the arrow from behind. String to nose is only a preference.
 
What is the arm holding the bow look like at full draw? Is that arm locked out and fully extended or is the elbow bent slightly?
 
Good form is crucial with any type of bow.Taking for granted you have that right.At full draw how's your upper back/shoulder tension?Your upper back/shoulder muscles should be under tension.Check out Drury outdoors Pete Shepleys PSE tips at You Tube.
 
Bernie, with all due respect, there are so many others to glean shooting form information from than Pete Shepley. Probably first and foremost, Randy Ulmer. Randy has published many excellent shooting form articles over the years. On the tournament circuit in the 80s and 90s Randy was the man the rest of us chased, a better shooter I've never known. John Dudley likewise has written some very spot on shooting form material. If you want some old school, (which makes them no less of a shooter) Terry Ragsdale, Frank Pierson, George Chapman have all put out instructional material that is very good.
I shot for Pete's company in the late 80s and early 90s, wouldn't ask him to pass the salt at a dinner table. I have to thank him though, for reasons I wont get in to, many of us moved on and in 94 I was asked to join the Mathews team.
 
I've been shooting bows longer than I care to mention. Your best bet would be to go to a pro shop and have them set you up. I know where I lived in my early life you might have to drive a few miles depending how popular archery is in your area. If you get started right there will be no bad habits to break. It is almost impossible to know what your form is without a video showing you shooting. The video should be shot from the side(front side-camera aimed at your chest) and probably from behind you when you are shooting.
 
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