JP captured buffer spring with suppressor

jk2paintworx

New member
I have a Silencerco harvester coming and considering a JP enterprises silent captured buffer spring to quiet things down. I shot my AR with a supressor and my standard buffer and it was amazing how noisy the buffer/spring was when you have a suppressor on.
What I am wondering is what spring weight to go with? I don't have a adjustable gas block and the limited shooting I did with the silencer the gun cycled fine. Anybody have experience with JP buffer with a suppressor?
 
Thinking I will try it with mid weight spring it comes with and order tuning set if needed. I imaging that if the spring is to heavy it will not cycle the next round. How do you determine if the spring is too soft? That seems like it could cause damage but what do you watch/ listen for to know?
 
The normal issue you'll have with a suppressor is being over gassed, not under. There will be plenty of pressure to cycle the rifle. Normally people use an adjustable gas block or heavier buffer/spring to slow down the bolt and reduce gas blowback

You shouldn't need a lighter spring
 
Adjustable gas block - problem solved.

The spring's job is to close the action. The gas block's job is to only allow enough gas flow to fully open the action.

Overgassed actions will often leave case head swipes on the brass - meaning the action is trying to open while the chamber pressure is still high, so there will be an ejector and/or extractor notch "swipe" or "smear" on the base.

A slightly stiffer spring won't usually fix an overgassed action. Sure, it stiffens it up a little, but resisting recoil/cycling is not the purpose of the spring, bolt and buffer mass and the gas block are what SHOULD set the action timing.

You might be experiencing that excessive sound simply because your rifle is now quiet enough to let you hear it. A loud rifle can hide a lot of action sounds.
 
Thanks verminator. Ya the sound I am hearing is totally normal. Just couldn't hear it before suppressor. Makes it sound very crude and takes away from the suppressed experience. I will do some testiing to determine needed adjustments...
 
Originally Posted By: jk2paintworxWhat are the signs of being "over gassed"

(1) dirty nose
(2) crap in your eyes
(3) you never noticed you shoot with your mouth open before but now you do!
(4) wondering how you developed allergies you never had
(5) cycling problems
(6) lots of soot on your unused cartridges and spewing out of the seam between the upper and lower

To name a few....

Sendit
 
Originally Posted By: jk2paintworxThanks verminator. Ya the sound I am hearing is totally normal. Just couldn't hear it before suppressor. Makes it sound very crude and takes away from the suppressed experience. I will do some testing to determine needed adjustments...

Right or wrong, I've done well with a bit of grease on the springs to help slow down the springs and prevent a lot of "wiggle."
 
Originally Posted By: sendit223Originally Posted By: jk2paintworxWhat are the signs of being "over gassed"

(1) dirty nose
(2) crap in your eyes
(3) you never noticed you shoot with your mouth open before but now you do!
(4) wondering how you developed allergies you never had
(5) cycling problems
(6) lots of soot on your unused cartridges and spewing out of the seam between the upper and lower

To name a few....

Sendit

LOL, this.......... And I can't shoot with my mouth closed, no matter how hard I try.
 
Another thing to watch for is how your brass leaves the gun, straight 3 o'clock is typically indicative of a pretty well balanced gas system, forward @ 1 o'clock over gassed, and 5 o'clock under gassed. This is of course assuming the ejector and extractor haven't been "massaged" to do something different. And this doesn't apply to 300 blackout due to the length of the case and the way it leaves the action.
 
Xc. My ar ejects the brass forward at 1:00 now and I do not have a suppressor on it yet. I did not consider that this could be from over gassing. As a left handed shooter with a right handed ar I would like it to continue to eject forward. What mods need to be done to keep it ejecting at 1:00 when properly gassed? I don't know what brand of ejector is in the rifle.
 
Typically a bit of massaging of the ejector does the trick. Round off the square edge of the ejector that is closest to the firing pin.

This changes the pressure/angle that it pushes on the brass ever so slightly. I had never seen it before until a friend of mine clued me into it.

Also, unless it's kicking brass a LONG way forward I wouldn't worry about it too much if the gun shoots good. By a long ways I'm talking like 5 feet or more and landing well in front of the muzzle. Like a good 2 or 3 feet in front. And keep in mind this "rule of thumb" really only applies to 223 rifles, different cartridges react to the system differently and case geometry changes how the brass comes out of the rifle, due to how it hits the deflector, and how it exits the port on the receiver.

For example due to the short case 300 Blackout will nearly always come out of the rifle and fly @ the 5 o'clock position.
 
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