22-250 and 55gr V Max?

dhc-6

New member
I am just getting started reloading and so far I am really enjoying it, I am trying to develope a load for my Ruger M77 MK2 using 55 Gr V Max bullets but can't seem to get groups less than 1 1/2". I am using IMR 4064 powder and have been loading from 32gr to 34gr with out any luck, I would appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks
 
Are you seating the bullets far out of the case? I've noticed the .22-250 tends to like the bullet seated deeper in the case than other cartridges, at least in the rifles I've loaded for.

The best shooting bullet I've found for any .22-250 is the 52 gr Sierra.
 
Originally Posted By: joedAre you seating the bullets far out of the case? I've noticed the .22-250 tends to like the bullet seated deeper in the case than other cartridges, at least in the rifles I've loaded for.

The best shooting bullet I've found for any .22-250 is the 52 gr Sierra.

I am seating them to get a OAL of 2.345" according to the Lyman manual that I am using. I think that I will try running the powder up closer to 35.5 grains and see if I can get it to perform, if that doesn't work I will go to a different 55 grain bullet and start over.
 
Not the vmax but the 55 sp I load for mine shoots 1/2" groups with 35.8gr imr4064 and likes the bullets seated at 2.350
 
Originally Posted By: DANNY-LNot the vmax but the 55 sp I load for mine shoots 1/2" groups with 35.8gr imr4064 and likes the bullets seated at 2.350

I will try setting my OAL to 2.350 and see what happens, I would imagine that I will need to start all over with my powder charges and work from the lowest to the highest to have accurate data. Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: dhc-6I am just getting started reloading and so far I am really enjoying it, I am trying to develope a load for my Ruger M77 MK2 using 55 Gr V Max bullets but can't seem to get groups less than 1 1/2". I am using IMR 4064 powder and have been loading from 32gr to 34gr with out any luck, I would appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks

Factory chambers are generous often to the point of being sloppy, and they have long throats. You're seating the bullets much too deep. First use a split-neck case to find where the lands are. Start out seating about .005 or .010" off the lands, or as far out as you can and still have some bullet in the case......there's plenty of room in the magazine. Then use more powder. About 34gr should be your starting point. Load 3 or 4 each, going up .3 or .4 gr at a time until you're about another grain past what the manual says is maximum. (Manuals are a rough guide, they don't know what works in your gun) Then shoot groups until you find best accuracy and/or pressure signs start to appear. You may come home with unfired ammo, but the gun may also handle hotter loads just fine.

I've never used 4064 powder. Winchester 760 always works in a 22-250 and RL15 has been just magic for me in several.

Hint: My only non-Ackley 22-250 is a Savage. In that gun, a 55VMax touching the lands, overall length is 2.5" At that length the bullet seats at least 2/3 down the neck.
 
Originally Posted By: AckmanOriginally Posted By: dhc-6I am just getting started reloading and so far I am really enjoying it, I am trying to develope a load for my Ruger M77 MK2 using 55 Gr V Max bullets but can't seem to get groups less than 1 1/2". I am using IMR 4064 powder and have been loading from 32gr to 34gr with out any luck, I would appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks

Factory chambers are generous often to the point of being sloppy, and they have long throats. You're seating the bullets much too deep. First use a split-neck case to find where the lands are. Start out seating about .005 or .010" off the lands, or as far out as you can and still have some bullet in the case......there's plenty of room in the magazine. Then use more powder. About 34gr should be your starting point. Load 3 or 4 each, going up .3 or .4 gr at a time until you're about another grain past what the manual says is maximum. (Manuals are a rough guide, they don't know what works in your gun) Then shoot groups until you find best accuracy and/or pressure signs start to appear. You may come home with unfired ammo, but the gun may also handle hotter loads just fine.
I've never used 4064 powder. Winchester 760 always works in a 22-250 and RL15 has been just magic for me in several.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dhc-6Thanks for the info, I am not sure what a split neck case is, can I make it or buy it?

Necksize a case, then give it a good inside bevel. With a Dremel tool, use the little cutoff wheel and slice the neck lengthwise to just past the neck /shoulder junction. Then remove the inside burr with a small round file. Put a bullet a little ways into the casemouth and chamber it. The bullet is pushed into the case when it hits the lands. Carefully unchamber. Where the bullet stopped is the seating distance to lands. Repeat until you get consistent measurements. You'll quickly develop a feel for it. This is easy and quick and cheap and works just fine. There are commercially made tools that do the same thing only with more stuff and more expense. Also, measuring overall cartridge length isn't really the way to do it. Definitely get a bullet ogive gauge for each caliber you shoot. The one that attaches to the caliper beam is by far most convenient to use. This is pretty much an essential tool. Sinclair sells them.
 
What ackman said is correct. You can also take a magic marker or Sharpie and paint the bullet. once you chamber the round like he said, the lands will mark the bullet you will know exactly where the bullet hits the lands. and you will know the seating depth.

the 22-250 is NOT Finicky, you will find all kinds of powder to use.
You HAVE to find out what YOUR rifle likes. I will give you some examples of powder that works good. Varget, IMR 4895, IMR 8208, H380 especially with a 50gr Nosler or Hornady. 4064 can work too, But another bullet is Sierra. Nosler edges out the Hornady in my gun. NOW,,, Sometimes things work a little better if you back off the max charges. I am not taking anything away from what everyone has told you. BUT lets not get the cart before the Horse. First work on some loads and then after you get a decent group start TWEAKING it with seating depth, and even 1 tenth of a grain up or down. If you go 3 tenths each way that is enough. And how far you are shooting is going to have some bearing upon things. Remember this,, Once you get everything clicking your way,,, 1" group at 3oo yds ? then you should be able to make a hit at 1000yds One step at a time here. You will make it.
 
Another way to do the OAL test is to take a spent cartridge and place a bullet in the case barely enough that it is held, and then chamber it gently. You do not have to split it. I mark them with sharpie or white out so that if It hangs up and comes back out of the case, then usually it is marked or wiped off so I can tell what is going on. if this just doesn't work for you then do the other.
 
I saw RE 15 and W 760 but another was W748 and Big Game I have even used Benchmark.
You have been given the best Bullets for a start. Sierras, Noslers and Hornady. Remember this use the bullets that have the highest coefficient. This will USUALLY, give you better results, and especially at the longer ranges. Five powders out of all that I have listed give me 1/2" groups at 100 yards. I try to keep the velocity within a range that gives me the same Point Of Impact. POI
Take a look at the primers that the Book is suggesting. This is important as the different primers will burn just a little different. Once you get a load established like I said before you can tweak it. Like maybe using a Benchrest Primer. You will never need magnum primers with the 22-250
Extreme powders,,, Hmmm if you load in the winter for winter coyotes and then use the same load for a June PD hunt, then these are better choices. Do not be fooled RE 15 Is an Extreme powder also. Most Ball powders are NOT, H380 will act up in hot weather, when loaded near or at MAX. Don't try to cross recipes back and forth for different components. EX: Using Nosler book and Hornady bullets. that's not a good practice, and some things can get you bad results.
 
I have adjusted my die to get me to 2.365 OAL with the 55VMax, I started out longer and keep seating the bullet a little further until the bolt would close without resistance, and than seated it just a tad more for good measure, I am going to load up 3 rounds starting at 34grains and see how it performs. I am really hoping that I can shoot these 55 grain vmax bullets. Thank again for all of the advice, I really like this site for all the great info that is available!
 
I went out tonight and loaded up 3 rounds and ended up with a .866 center to center group, I will try and up my powder charge from 34.4 to 34.5. Hopefully this will shrink the group. Thanks again to all of the members who shared their knowledge!
 
Your load may be the most accurate at a tad bit more powder, watch for pressure signs as you increase your powder charge. Fed 210's work well for this application.
 
Not sure what your budget is but a OAL measuring tool is critical if your gonna reload. I would look at the Hornady OAL tool and learn to use it. How much "jump" a bullet has to the rifling is critical and the gun will tell you where it likes it. Looks like your getting closer to a good load though.
 
dhc-6 As you go up in your powder charge, and of course, you are looking for pressure signs, Look at two things for sure. Of course I am sure you know about primer flattening, but the other thing is to look at the spent brass, and take measurements at the base. Take your sharpie ( or a pencil) and make a mark where you can measure at the same exact spot.( before you shoot it and then afterwards) If your brass is growing larger than usually .002 then stop, or even back off. When things are worse, you will have difficult extractions. But I hope you never get there, simply by following this little practice. But You can check your full length sized brass against the spent brass of the tested load.(what you just tested) If it is .002-.003 things are cool, then if it grows you will know. This is where vernier calipers come in handy. All handloaders need them.
 
Back
Top